lowering blocks not aligning!

So Im in the middle of putting 3in lowering blocks, ordered from chevs of the 40s, on my 1950 chevy sedan and the nipple and hole on the lowering block will not line up with my leafs and rear end. When the lowering blocks hole is positioned on the leaf springs nipple the lowering blocks nipple is about a half inch away from the rear ends hole. whats going on here? any advice or help? Ill try and upload a picture or two

 

thats what pry bars are for, rachet straps, whatever it takes,,,,

 

hmmmm... really? okay

 

happens just about everytime you try to put blocks in, get one side seated and snug up the ubolts, then start prying the other side in, no biggie.

 

that happen to me.the torque tube slid forward you will have to pull the rear back to line it up

 

woops forgot to ask is it open rear end or is it the original torque tube?

 

oops, I was thinkin side to side, either way its the same

 

yeah its too far back, and its original torque tube

 

yeah get a friend to help either to pull or push the rear.i had a hard time for some reason but that should do it.the torgue tube will move in or out a couple of inches..

 

ratchet straps, one on each side should pull it right into place

 

Good to know as I'll be doing this next weekend.

 

As I recall, the torque tubes on Chevys had a slip joint up near the U-joint ball which allows forward & aft movement of the rear axle a bit as the springs arch & relax. Just use some straps or a come-along and move the axle where you want it.

 

I used a bfh on my '53 bel air with the same issue. You're overthinking it.

 

not overthinking it. It was just getting dark last night and I want to make sure "muscling" the rear end to where i want it isnt a bad thing, But I appreciate the help! also whats a "bfh"... Big Fuckin Hammer?

 

Precisely! Just jack up the axle with the block on it to where it is touching the spring pack and close to where it needs to be and then whack whatever needs whacking with the bfh to get it to pop into place (pin into hole).

 

haha ride on man, i'll give it a try and let you know

 

Your problem is obvious...

Sorry, couldn't resist. Hope you get it figured out.

 

I recently did a set in a torque tube equipped 1951 Chevy pickup. They did exactly that.

Push, pull, prod, pry, winch and strap it into place. Whatever it takes. It will go.

 

I thought the lowering blocks on those old Chevies got to be offset one way or another to line up? The hole on the bottom, and the tit on the top, I mean.

 

The ones that convert from closed to open drive line do. The pin on a torque tube spring is not centered on the axle.

 

Exactly. The hole on the rear end perch is about 1/2" behind the pin in the spring because there is some sort of weird perch on the rear spring. I've had to drill an offset hole in the perch to mount an open differential on the stock leaf spring.

 

got one side on......jesus

 

Hahahaha!

 

Hey nobody said it was fun! LOL

it does make a good spectator sport though.

 

true true... the other side went in like nobodies business

 

got em in, heres a pic

 

Stupid question time.

If you need a BFH to get everything to bolt up, was the rear differential out of alignment before using said BFH?

Or - by using the BFH are you actually getting the rear differential out of alignment to the chassis as you move it where it needs to go?

 

He still has enclosed drive, try again.

 

well its all bolted up so I guess I'll see what happens on the road