car shuts off at operating temp

I am using MSD box, but if I read these instructions correctly, the ballast resitor goes between the + coil side and the ignition switch.

I found pictures and instructions on Mallory site (generic instructions for any brand).

Jack

 

That Accel coil does not require a balast resister. I'm running one on my nail head with my home built HEI conversion.

 

thank you .ill keep you posted

 

When it stops running check to see ig you have fire at the plug . If it does then chances are its not the ognition.

 

Since it seems you haven't done the basic "spark test", I'm betting on the coil also. As for vapor lock, I've seen it all during the past 50+ years and no one has ever proved to me their is such a thing. I've seen clothes pins on fuel lines, aluminum foil wrapped around fuel lines and water poured on water pumps, but obviously, none of these things get to the heart of the problem. For instance, if your fuel pump isn't producing enough pressure and/or VOLUME, many would diagnose this as "vapor lock". Symptoms are definitely the same when it comes to a bad coil...heat DOES affect things, but it's still a bad coil that's causing the problem.

<<>>

You've eliminated the vapor lock theory.......

Be sure to post back...we're all interested.

 

I agree. I think vapor lock is a myth. I did the tin foil clothes pin tricks too and it didn't help then and that was 40 years ago. It still gets repeated over and over again.

 

I hear that.

 

I'm thinking that the ignition module is going bad.

 

Shovel...that's a good point and it's easy enough to check out before throwing dollars at a coil that he may not need and also may not be able to return. Some parts suppliers get pretty hard headed on electrical items. Like someone mentioned, put the points back in and try it first.

 

alright, went out to the shop. i let the car heat up and shut down, took off #1 and ground the plug and i got no spark. went to the parts store
imnezrider - the parts store exchanged the new coil, as it had warranty, they wanted to test it but the coil was to hot to even hold, so they said "just take the new one" .

went back and threw the new coil back on, let it idle, pop , pop pop and.......shut down again.
i sprayed a little starting fluid on carb and still a no go.

I guess the next thing would be to replace the module. hmmm??

 

Apparently neither of you have owned a Super Cobrajet Torino running open headers on a 100 degree day at the dragstrip. The FE under stress puts out so much heat in that tiny enclosed space vapor lock is a constant and "Real" problem.

But of course the problem was solved by running the fuel line through a "cool can" full of ice and no other changes NOT by the myth of putting clothespins on it.

 

I second the coil.

 

Electronic modules can be sensitive to heat. Sometimes they fail completely, and other times they work ok after they cool off. I've seen this many times on HEI's - on either the module or pickup.

Usually when a coil fails, it doesn't come back to life

 

After it shuts off, pop the cap and spray the module with contact cleaner to cool it off. Then throw the cap back on and try it.

 

Apples and oranges. I'm talking about box stock street driven cars that performed well for years and as soon as they won't start in warm weather it's vapor lock.

 

Maybe you should put points back in and try it...seems like you've narrowed things down now.

 

Is the coil wired correctly?

 

You can test the module to see if good. Will need a voltmeter.
Again, go to the Mallory web site for pictures and instructions to test the module.
Jack