I'm new and still learning about how to use this board so please excuse any breaches in protocol. I've used POR15 several times with a brush and have been very satisfied with the product. Now I'm faced with having to paint some large pieces that need a more professional finish .... my new core support and inner fenders. The question is, do I have to use the POR thinner or is something else available that will work that might be a little cheaper. Naptha? MEK? What? Also, will laquer thinner work for cleanup of the gun when I'm done. Along these lines, when I use POR15 out of the can, I put the lid back on with several layers of Saran Wrap over the can so the lid doesn't bond to the can. How do I know? Don't ask. Thanks guys. Skip in Houston
It's just me and I am not a fan of POR15 anyway... If you want a nice finish and you want a paint like result and consistency, why not use paint? A good enamel or catalyzed finish will stand up to your daily uses and will look like paint. I understand POR 15 doesn't have any UV protection, and I don't know if anything you plan on coating will see the sun, but (and I mean this very generally, not directed at you) what the hell is wrong with paint?
Skip...I was a POR-15 distributor for years. If you really have to spray POR be very careful. This is nasty stuff and really hard on the lungs. Use only the recomended solvent to thin with and only spray if you have a fresh air resperator. POR-15 is an Isocyanide, and very bad for you.
Use POR's dedicated reducer for the POR-15, don't subs***ute! Lacquer thinner can be used for clean-up, but be sure to do a VERY good job of cleaning. I don't use it on anything exterior, but I've sprayed it on underfloors/trunks, and as a "primer" on frames and topcoated with POR's Ch***isCote, or regular paints (just be sure to put the paint on while the POR is just tacky, or it won't stick) And spraying POR IS very dangerous, as it has been said, it contains isocyanates, but so does every modern catalysed clearcoat paint. So GOOD respirator, or supllied air, is necessary, as well as covering up any exposed skin, while spraying.
i just used some por-15 and it states on it to use only their solvent.. using other stuff may not be work as good or effective as it should and reduce por-15 properties to rust. my parts i sprayed out doors and man, it does stick to everything. use long sleeves and a good respirator. i got $6 dollar ( on sale ) HF cheapo gun to shoot with, and then chuck the gun, it will save you a headache to cleaning your good spray gun. for the plastic under the lid, i use a regular store plastic bag. the bag will stick to lid but the lid will not stick to the can. make the rim of the can does not have por-15 and its clean before setting the plastic. So far i'm happy with my re****s. just follow the directions for each item of por-15 and u be ok. use their top coat to seal the deal , just in case. i did. i know its lots of $$$$ but in the long run it be worth it.
Thanks guys. I guess I'll use satin ch***is black instead. BTW, I do have the proper respirator, head cover and long sleeve shirt. Thanks again for the replies. Skip
If you do spray it (and I do) It will drift through the air and stay wet ALOT farther than other paint does, like all the way across the yard and onto the wife's car. Spray it kindof dry and let it flow itself out. But, since the stuff takes hours to kick I have never had a problem cleaning out the gun. BTW, polyester primer can "kick" in 30 minutes and That, will lock up your gun good.
+1, this stuff is brutal. I've never seen something so tough on skin, let alone open open membranes inside the body. Be careful
Don't be fooled by the "only use POR reducer/thinner", it's nother more than regular Naptha, you can get a gallon at HD for less than what POR sells a quart for.
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