As you can see when i went to the hardware store i flipped a coin, either sandpaper or some wax to buff out the factory paint, again, which was good from far but far from good. i chose the sandpaper. now the weather is turning, up here in the mighty northwest. i've got several opinions and just to screw with my head i'm gonna throw this out there for further confusion. i still have some body work to do, but not too much. time, and money are an issue right now. so my cheapest solution is to find a way to primer the car before it gets wet. i am going to pick up where i leave off next spring/summer so keep that in mind. this car has been this way for the summer, and i was just told, i'm going to have to D.A. the whole car again as it's been exposed for that long, even though humidity and rain have not been on the car. does the john deere black (blitz black) need a primer before going on? does DP90 need a primer before going on? is DP90 a catylized base coat? so if i shoot clear, will it make it shiny? i refuse to shoot it now with any rattlecan, not going that route. again, just looking for the cheap-ninety-cheap way to protect from elements for a couple seasons.
dp 90 is catylised primer-epoxy. you dont need any further primer first, some etch first, but it sticks by itself. you can clear over it if you wish, but it wont look the same as gloss black paint, but will be shiny it will protect better than regular primer , but it chauks up after while so its not the best final finish if you're looking for flat black skull
i was thinking scotch brite, then grease and wax remover then shoot whatever. am i really going to have to d.a. the whole thing again? there's not any visible surface rust. i don't like the chaulky thing
First of all, primer will not protect it from the elements. Primer is porous and surface rust will bleed through. EPOXY PRIMER will work and would be a good solution. I would prep surface by sanding the whole car with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. You need a good "bite" for the new paint.
JD Blitz black is a top coat and needs a primer.it is a flattened enamel . i have it on my `28 tudor and after 14 years it still looks great.....but the car doesn't sit outdoors and sees no real weather. i'm not a paint expert , but i believe if you were to do anymore body work or paint the car with real automotive paint you would want to sand it all off before
Somewhere the suggestion was to remove any grease/wax first, then sand yer heart out. So that's been my method
stay away from the Blitz Black if you want to paint the car, you're just creating a whole lot of work for yourself. the DP90 would be good, but I'd probably use the Omni Epoxy Primer on it, less expensive than the actual DP if you're on a budget. But as said it will chalk up after a while.
to repeat: no blitz black...it's not compatible with most automotive paints and primers. Most likely you'll get a wrinkle effect as it dries and you get to sand it alllll off! DP90 is good because it is a catalyzed primer/sealer. What you need is the sealer part because you don't plan to top coat immediately. As said before, it will get chalky and dull, and will eventually lose its sealing properties and start to rust...this will take at least a year under direct sunlight. Also you have a week to top coat it, so in your case when you finish your body work you will need to sand it all down and prime it again. You won't find a one step primer, sealer, or paint that you can spray on, take your time on body work, and then top coat. edit: that's wet sand for the DP90, not a big deal
I used DP50 (which is the same as 90, only gray) on my bro's Caddy...it was on there for three years and never chalked up...it eventually dulled up of course, but it held up well and is waterproof... R-
If you are low on funds and winters coming with more body work to do , why not just get some primmer and spray the car . NOT rattle can . It will hold up till next year or so . Then you will have time and hopefully more money to put on a good paint job . Just an idea . RetroJim
Regular primer does not seal the car from wateror protect it. It actually absorbs it. Which is why we have been talking about epoxy primers...
so to clarify; wet sand 400 grit, then Omni Epoxy Primer and I'm good to go? and also a thanks to those offering the input, this is why I signed up for this board.
so, i just got the car out of "paint" a week ago. the movie it is in has wrapped up the shots, so for continuity the car had to be in the ruff. Last week she was shot with 3 coats of high build primer and 3 coats of JD Blitz Black. For Father's Day the lady and kids got the trunk pinstriped for me at the car show/cruise. Should get some kick *** scallops this weekend. Pictures soon.
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