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235 Trans & Carb Questions??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dimebag, Jul 8, 2010.

  1. dimebag
    Joined: May 16, 2009
    Posts: 622

    dimebag
    Member
    from Joliet, il

    Hey Guys I am getting ever closer to putting the new motor back into my 50 Chev, but like everybody else I have run into a snag or 2. I still have to pull the 3 speed trans apart from my 216 and get it ready to swap over everything, but was looking and wondering....It appears that the bellhousing to the block only has 2 bolts holding them together, and 2 locating pins-is this right?? I am used to V-8 cars having 6 or more bolts holding everything to the block, is this strong enough??? I got the motor from a machine shop that rebuilt the whole thing for a guy that skipped out and have been swapping parts from another 235 and my 216, and have read a zillion times that I can swap most everything from these motors. I am not trying to reinvent the wheel by any means, just hate to put this together wrong or have things go completely kittywompus on me on first start-up/ first drive. Also I have the Fenton dual carb set-up for the car and it is set up for compression fittings from the main feed, is it just me or is it a real bad idea to put these type of fittings over the header?? I think I might have enough skill to plumb the fuel line the "right" way with bent hard line and the nuts w/ flares>>> Any and all good advice would be greatly appreciated, I feel a little lost here and am worried to death of making the whole thing go to hell and fast-so ideas, and advice would be great!! Thanks in advance!!!
     
  2. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,740

    Hellfish
    Member

    I'd use hard lines. As for the trans... did you get a shop manual yet? I assume not. $20 and worth every penny. It's been awhile, but I'm pretty sure there are 4 bolts holding the trans to the bell and 4 bell to block. You may have to get to 2 of them from underneath
     
  3. dimebag
    Joined: May 16, 2009
    Posts: 622

    dimebag
    Member
    from Joliet, il

    yes i have the shop manual, but have been just going on "common" sense...also are they that detailed telling stupid people like me each and every bolt??? not trying to sound like a smart ass, but they can be a little vague in some areas....like remove and the bolts holding the bellhousing and reinstall when finished-not remove 2, 3 or 4 bolts that hold the bellhousing to the block. I will be doing a little bit of lite reading, but I know that the 235 has a huge following here, and I was looking for a little advice!! thanks again!!
     
  4. forty3
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 155

    forty3
    Member

    the other two bolts are inside the bellhousing at the bottom...pull the cover off the bottom of the bellhousing. and get ready to swear a lot.
     
  5. gear jammer
    Joined: Sep 22, 2004
    Posts: 340

    gear jammer
    Member
    from tucson az

    pull the clutch and flywheel off, theres some more bolts inside the bellhousing, that hold the bell to the block
     
  6. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,740

    Hellfish
    Member

    probably not, but they are often photos and illustrations that are helpful. Once you start getting into you will see the bolts. They're obvious. Getting the clutch/flywheel out to remove the bell is a PITA
     
  7. You will have to pull the clutch and flywheel, there are two behind the flywheel. At least it has been my experience with the 216, 235, and 261 inline chevy six.
    It's a pain in the keester !
     
  8. are you swearing yet? make sure you have the first aid kit updated,good luck!
     
  9. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    there are 4 bolts behind the flywheel and 2 exposed on top for bolting the bell to the engine.

    The trans to bell would be 2 external bolts on top, and 2 bolts installed from inside the bell at the bottom.
     
  10. dimebag
    Joined: May 16, 2009
    Posts: 622

    dimebag
    Member
    from Joliet, il

  11. dimebag
    Joined: May 16, 2009
    Posts: 622

    dimebag
    Member
    from Joliet, il

    well after lots and lots of swearing I finally got the thing apart. There were 2 external bolts and 4 internal....what a stupid freakin design, but at least the old motor started to fall over so like an asshole I grabbed it with 1 hand and picked it up..now my back is freakin killin me!!! What a fun night at work!! And yes I am going to order whole new setup from Chevs of the 40s cause I dont want to ever have to do this again!!!
     
  12. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,924

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    One of the cases where the fact that "they don't build 'em like they used to" is actually a good thing.
     
  13. dimebag
    Joined: May 16, 2009
    Posts: 622

    dimebag
    Member
    from Joliet, il

    I think you may have stumbled on something there Heathen!!! I am looking at Ft. Wayne Clutch for my parts, I have read from different people here that they sell great parts and they are much cheaper than anybody else!! I am not really sure if I need to replace the whole set-up, but this is 1 of those jobs I would rather avoid!
     
  14. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    God you kids want everything made with zippers on them !!! LOL But seriously while you are in there replace disk,cover and T/O bearing and if the flywheel has much in the way of surface cracking/hard spots reface it also.
     
  15. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,740

    Hellfish
    Member

    We got all the clutch parts for my wife's '51 ('60 235) from Ft Wayne Clutch. Great, quick service and everything worked great. Tell them what you're doing. They may have a better/bigger clutch for you than the stock version.
     

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