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Powerglide Question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dugan, Jul 9, 2010.

  1. dugan
    Joined: May 20, 2010
    Posts: 14

    dugan
    Member

    <hr style="" size="1"> <!-- / icon and ***le --> <!-- message --> We had taken the detent rod off the trans during the motor swap and thought it was useless because it never downs shifts from 2 to 1 when moving in drive, but today with the new motor the motor barely moves when u mash on it and i was wondering if this was playing a major part in it?

    Is it needed?
     
  2. Model A John
    Joined: Apr 24, 2008
    Posts: 1,771

    Model A John
    Member
    from wichita ks

    Yes, it's necessary to use the kickdown rod ***embly. If you don't, the PG will wear out the high gear clutches. I found that out the hard way. The only way to get by without it is to use a manual valve body, such as the one that TCI sells.
     
  3. Model A John nailed it, I have a full on manual 1:76 P/G from JW Perf. in my 26 P/U, no kick down, no vacuum modulator, nothing, full on manual valve body only. Like a 2 speed stick without the third pedal. Kinda ****s I know. Stupid quick though. Yes I drag race my T:eek:
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2010
  4. dugan
    Joined: May 20, 2010
    Posts: 14

    dugan
    Member

    Could a bad vac***, or not having the detent rod cause the truck to not want to move faster than idle speed?
     
  5. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,694

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    Get yourself a 1/4" long, 1/4" diameter, copper tubing, "sleeve". Use that to block the 1-2 shift valve open. You now have a manual valve body; toss the kickdown linkage, and vacuum modulator tubing; block the site it would normally draw vacuum from. Or, just buy a Trans-Go shift kit; they use a coil spring "spacer" to block the shift valve open. Shift away to your little hearts desire. Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  6. dugan
    Joined: May 20, 2010
    Posts: 14

    dugan
    Member

    i hooked up the linkage and had to modify it to be a little bit longer but i got it, the moving problem was due to bad timing, the timing bracket on the timing cover is an aftermarket and does not line up properly where it should... also found out i havent had any vac*** from the vacc modulator for a long while, it is cracked around the ****** outlet, so thats the reason i havent been able to kick down gears when i mash it haha, now its all just timing by ear and not hearing a pinging noise and driving it haha
     

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