I put no-name solenoids in the '58. Got it wired up to test it and adjust the cable on the drivers side. Hit the ****on and the solenoid acts like it's not strong enough to release the latch. It pulls part of the way, but not enough to realease it. I can see it pulling and there is enough "throw" to pull further. Is it possible that 50lbs is not enough? Where can I get 100lb. solenoids? Radio Shack? I don't want to have to spend the big $$$ to Autoloc.
Try putting your sol. on a pulley set-up?! Soo it pulls down, that will give it more torque. Another problem could be your latches? Or door alignment. But if all else fails, spend the money and buy the autoloc ones I know those work perfectly!
alot of times, on early stuff, you have to pre-load the solenoid. tighten the cable so it's already pulled the latch part of the way. not so much that the door might come open, but just enough so the soleniod can pull it. make sure everything is lubed up well too. all that gunk on the latches creates alot of friction, and will cause the soleniod problems. or spend the dough for the 75 or 100 lb.ers. i'll sell em to ya for cost plus shipping if ya need em.
another problem is voltage drop. under load, the solenoid can drop the voltage down to 10 volts or less. i run an 8ga. power wire to a relay next to the solenoid in each door. use the "****on" to trigger the relay that controls the solenoid. this way, there is enough amperage to supply correct power to the solenoid. matt
How much are the 100# solenoids? Plus shipping of course. Also, do ya'll sell door poppers? PM me if you prefer. I'll lube everything to see if that helps. I tried preloading it. Had it tighter than I would think needed and it still wouldn't flip the latch.
mine needed slack on it to engage and work properly. Do you have it set up where its lifting you interior door handle too if it is replace the rod with some cable and it wont have to pull the other handle too.
On my 59 it wasnt there was a seperate spring in the latch mechanism. Palmer told me to do it so I did it and it was good. Also as far as the more powerfull seliniods I got mine on ebay cheaper than I could find em anywhere else.
Buzzard -Get a set of SCREW MOTORS.....FROM AN '80S CAR. THEY WERE USED TO LOCK AND UNLOCK THE DOORS.....THEY HAVE MORE PULL AND ARE APT TO WORK MORE RELIABLY. sorry caps..... Plus the Solenoids on occasion have even caused wiring fires.....
[ QUOTE ] Buzzard -Get a set of SCREW MOTORS.....FROM AN '80S CAR. THEY WERE USED TO LOCK AND UNLOCK THE DOORS.....THEY HAVE MORE PULL AND ARE APT TO WORK MORE RELIABLY. sorry caps..... Plus the Solenoids on occasion have even caused wiring fires..... [/ QUOTE ] I agree. OEM is the only way to go. Damn near lost a high buck model A and the shop it was in due to after market ****.
u may have the solenoid open position set too small when the latch is closed make sure the solenoid has enough pull to open the latch all the way
Get a couple of Chevy starter soloniods. They pull 75+ pounds and work better than any of the aftermarket ones (which BTW are only 12 lbs) If you look at Dakota Digitals HD solonoids, they are actually SBC starter parts.
I had that same problem with my truck also. The way I solved it was to give it more slack in the cable. It almost seemed like too much but if I took some of the slack out they wouldn't work again. Try this it should help. Mac
Oh- another thing I forgot on those screw motors......they are super light weight and are FLAT sided with two holes drilled thur them, so a blind man can mount em and they are not in the way of gl***/regulator- etc in a tight fit situation........
I have done a few of these and found out that what happens is that the spring for the handle return is too strong. In this case I have heated the spring a little at a time. This will weaken the spring. Be careful not to overheat the spring and ruin it. Like I said a little at a time and keep trying it everytime to see if it is good. This has worked very well for me in the past with no problems. and yes I was using good SPAL 40lb solenoids. SLAMIT
yes the srping for the handle return is too much for the spal solenoids that is what i run also so what i do is i disconnect the interior handle to lessen the resistence only downfall is i need the solenoid to get in and out on both sides
[ QUOTE ] yes the srping for the handle return is too much for the spal solenoids that is what i run also so what i do is i disconnect the interior handle to lessen the resistence only downfall is i need the solenoid to get in and out on both sides [/ QUOTE ] Maybe I'm a *****, but that sounds like a really bad idea.
it probably is a bad idea but it works and ive been running that setup for over a year now and it hasnt failed me yet y do u think its such a bad idea??
Can't I just replace the rod to the interior handle with a cable, like was mentioned. Seems like that would work.
you are better off figuring out a way to atach the cable from the solenoid so it does not have to pull the interior handle open. when i did my 50 caddy i welded a small tab for the cable to pull on and also had a choke cable running to the bottom of the fender as a safty to get in the car if the battery goes dead or the remote battery dies
Choprods, What '80's car are you referring to, GM or Ford? I'm about ready to put some solenoids in my '47 Ford. Have the bear claw latches in and this is something I've been wondering about. TIA.
That was the way I tried to do mine but there was no room the window was in the way just to much **** in a small area. The cable on the interior handle works fine and now you can barley even hear it. The solution was way to simple for me to figure out I had some crazy plan to fix mine before Frank Palmer said do you want me to show you the easy way. Always listen to your local custom guru.
[ QUOTE ] it probably is a bad idea but it works and ive been running that setup for over a year now and it hasnt failed me yet y do u think its such a bad idea?? [/ QUOTE ] Ever been in a car fire? I've been in two, one gas fire and one electrical. Believe me, your gonna want out NOW. If it's electrical, good chance your doors won't work, even if you do get to the switch. In that case you could make the Darwin award!
DEFINITELY USE INSIDE MECHANICAL HANDLES!!!!!!!! Those look heavyDuty- Cad Lights...I believe the ones I used were from a FORD and they were flat [where they mounted] and on the interior side that sticks inwards too[also smaller]....there is a spiral rod under those bellows- that is how the motor "pulls it"/when the motor is charged it turns freely and the spiral is pulled or pushed depending on the polarity of voltage from switch.....
[ QUOTE ] Buzzard -Get a set of SCREW MOTORS.....FROM AN '80S CAR. THEY WERE USED TO LOCK AND UNLOCK THE DOORS.....THEY HAVE MORE PULL AND ARE APT TO WORK MORE RELIABLY. [/ QUOTE ] The actuators used for power door lock in OEM applications aren't what you want to use. Why? They use plastic components that aren't designed for the loading they'll experience trying to pop a latch in a 50's car. You'll be cursing them to hell the day the gears strip and you can't get the damn door open. Nice, beefy, solenoids with 50/75/100/whatever pounds of pull is what you want to use. Solenoids have 1 moving part, and it's not going to be one that breaks.
Thanks for all the help and info., guys. I ended up replacing the rods to the interior handles with cables. That way the pull, but the solenoids don't have to pull the handle and it's spring. Outlaw wired up the remotes and everything works good. Just did the p***enger side today. Then I pulled the grill and parking lights out and started measuring and mocking up the '60 Olds grille that's going in there. So I'm sure I'll have some questions about that!
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