Since we are probably behind the times in NZ (lol) - and only just heard about this product - has anyone here used it? Thoughts/opinions - any good? Chrs
One of the more popular ones is POR-15 (Paint Over Rust). Too many opinions, and threads to summarize. Search on POR-15, and get ready to read.
cheers for that - I've been told that rust encapsulator is much better than POR15.....perhaps I best get to reading lol
cool mate - I'd never been in one before. Wanted to find something 'different' over here - and just loved the look of the grille......she looks a heap better now though, nice metallic green (should be finished by xmas )
cool Bryan - that's what I was looking at using it for - I've done alot of panel repairs, and have alot of bare steel - couldn't really think of anything to 'seal' it with. I'd be pretty pist if it blew out with rust in another year! The only thing is, I'm using dulon paint, and not sure if it's compatible.
Don't know. I just used it on some brackets that I made for my my 48' stepdeck trailer. Painted over the sealed metal with high end rattlecan paint (Martin Senour), the brackets got badly scraped at a construction site leaving what looked like bare metal. Well, that bare metal never rusted a bit. And that is on an over the road rig. The product was not POR but a similar one I'm sure. Brushed on, 2 coats, then lightly steel wooled before painting.
Mottly, I went down the same track looking for something acid free and paint compatable to seal bare metal, ended up with Gibbs Brand Lubricant. Of course I sell the stuff now so I'm more than a little biased. There's lots to read on here and elsewhere on that too. I just wanted to point out another option.
Mottly, if you want to encapsulate existing rust, you can use one of many products. I use BlackGuard from Mitre 10. If you want to protect new or shiny metal, see Mike Dunn about Gibbs. It's the shiznit. Both can be painted over easily. It's all a lie about us being 10 years behind the rest of the world, but sheep? That's another story....
Sheep! Mate whaddaya talkin' 'bout, we got ten times as many as you... Mmmmm, maybe I shouldna said that
make friends with someone in aviation supply & logistics. i work in a similar joint and let me tell you.... we turf tonnes of stuff purely on shelf life. i have so much corrosion preventatives in my shed i stopped taking them cause i ran out of space. the other day i got a 20lt drum of degreaser. no special aviation degreaser, just degreaser. does it stop degreasing?? Some Ardrox Av30 will stop the rust inside your doors.. forever. for big open panels i just use red oxide structural primer. i know people have their opinions but opinions are like A-Holes. everyone has one and they all stink. Red Oxide rules.
I use a rust converter, there are several ...it brushes on white and goes black where it contacts rust, then paint over. Chem kote is an American brand I have used....they all work well.
I've used it on my floorboards. It reminded my of Glyptal. A very heavy solids paint. It was very different than the POR15 I used on the frame.
I used Eastwood's on my F-1 frame about 4 years ago, looks good today. My buddy also used it on his, no problems.
I use Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint, is uses the water trapped in the rust to catalyze or cure....made with something like superglue. I love it.
wow - heaps of posts to read! Cheers - we've been using blackguard up until now, but I've only just heard about the 'encapsulator' stuff - best I get head down into the research. I really need to seal the panelwork that's been done, just so I can leave it longer before repaints lol..........as for sheep - I hear there's a special on velcro gloves at the warehouse (LMAO!) BTW - I get lost in this forum, how do I find the pages for this sort of discussion - sounds like there's a bit to read..somewhere!
1) use the search function and just type keywords to find old threads mate. 2) if its just to protect metal for a while before final prep and paint i just use 3 dollar export cans the day i strip it.. depending on how long you will leave it. 3) if you use red oxide make note that its an enamel, acrylic will not bond real well (although i have GM black acrylic on the 36 chev for the last 3 or 4 years straight over red oxide and other than being nasty chalky gmh paint that it is after 12 months, its fine). make sure you let red oxide fully cure before painting over, atleast 24hrs and i mean ATLEAST. Rust convert first, make sure you follow the directions on the rust converter, water activates it, and then wash and dry. red oxide after will actually bond to light rust. as a surface red oxide prefers light rust in my experience and seals it. itst he only primer i know of that does and once cured it ends up kinda thick and rubbery and lasts for decades. make sure you get all loose rust off first with wire brushes and those angle grinder discs that are like a rubbery plastic compound intended for paint removal, they work REAL GOOD on rust and will not upset metal that does not already have a problem (ie cancer) i hope all this helps. 4) you dont need velcro gloves man, you just put their baaaaack feet in your welly boots so they cant get away. BAAAAAAAAAA
I have used the Eastwood's rust encapsulator many times and it works good. Wire brush all of the loose stuff and vacuum up the crap then use a disposable brush and put it on. Once air gets to it the curing starts so keep the can sealed up until you are ready to use it. Leftover in the can will be a brick when you try to use it a month later. Eastwood sells it in several colors and both spray cans and quarts and gallon cans. It is worth the money.
If the can isn't down alot, you can put some clean rocks (or something similar) in the can to raise the level back to the top eliminating the air space. This should prevent it from setting up in the can. If you don't have enough left to bring up the level this way, pour it into a smaller can that will be full.
To link words in the search type them like this "rust encapsulator" or rust+encapsulator. It will search the words together. "sheep velcro" gets a few results as well.
Ive used POR-15 and Eastwoods rust encapsulator. I prefer the Eastwood product any day. Just my $.02.
ive been pleased with the rust encapsulator 2 coats , plus 2 coats of enamel top coat and does a good job holding back rust if you paint it over cleaned up steel, such a heavy wire brushing idealy in a grinder or a drill
awesome tips/advice - thanks heaps! Apparently we can no longer buy zinc oxide here anymore......sheep must be farkin it up for the car enthusiasts?! LOL rito - onto the search......
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