My son and I decided to try and rebuild a 59 Chevy Apache 3100. We're totally new to this and have little automotive experience from the mechanical side. We need to replace the clutch on the pickup but are stuck on removing the transmission. The shop manual is pretty clear but we can't get a wrench on the bottom bolts. I'm ***uming there's something simple we need to do that isn't called out. Any suggestions (helpful) would be appreciated.
Intro would be nice...... Some times you just have to "build" something that will let you get on the bolt head. Maybe by heating and bending a wrench, or removing some of the "stuff" that's in the way. Post a pic and someone will have the answer....
If the head of the bolt is shrouded and it feels like very little force is needed to hold it stationary while you turn the nut, try wedging a screwdriver between the bolt head and what is shrouding it carefully remove the nut. Thats the best I can do without a picture
You are talking about the rt and left LOWER trans bolts? Yes the bottom ones on a truck used bolts and nuts, cars and later trucks the bell was threaded on all 4 holes. If you had a short 3/4" 3/8 drive socket with the mini 3/8 short breaker bar, that should work. It's been awhile since I did one, but honestly can't see why you can't get a wrench on it?? Can you use a short 3/4 open end and put the entire wrench in the bell to get at it? Or if you can't, do what was said about making a tool...heat and bend a box wrench... or try to sneak tiny vise grips in there...get creative
Thanks for the responses. We used the screw driver tip to capture the bolt head and were able to get it out. Had to get past the frustration of last night . The transmission is out. I think it's a muncie 319 but I'm not sure. I've looked around the Internet but haven't found the right reference. Our next step is to tackle the clutch removal. A lot of new experiences here. Not sure what's meant by "Intro". I posted a hello in the new member's area.
The shop manual says that to remove the clutch ***embly I need install tool J-5824 to support the clutch ***embly during removal. Where can I get such a tool? Any suggestions for work arounds or tips on this? Thanks Regards -B
You can get a clutch lineup tool at most parts stores. You will need it when you put it back together. An old transmission input shaft works great. For just something to hold it while you take it loose I have used a piece of broom handle sawed off to keep it from falling .
You will need a "clutch aligning tool" to replace the clutch to hold the disk centered. This was a old trans input shaft years ago,now days they have cheap plastic ones at the parts store. Use one of these when unbolting the cover. Never had OR used any special tool for removal. You will have to rotate the engine several turns to get the 6 cover bolts out. Start by loosening each about 2 turns the first revolution,then remove the second turn. Replace in reverse order making sure the aligning tool is a free fit in the disk and pilot bearing. Easy Peasee!!
The alignment tool comes with the kit at Napa. I replaced the clutch inb my 58 apache last week. It's fresh in my mind, Buy the kit, it has a clutch, a pressure plate, a throwout bearing, a pilot bearing and the alignment tool. You don't need any special tools for this job,,, unless like me, patience is a special tool. That kit is around $100 plus you'll wanna get your fly wheel turned (machined) Thats $20-$30. Before attempting to remove the pilot bearing, read the advice below. I screwed with mine for 3 days, then followed this advice, had it out in 10 minutes. The manual and the kit instruct using grease to "hydraulically" remove bearing, screw that.
John and Thumper are right, usually guys just use their clutch alignment tool to hold the disk and cover (pressure plate) up when you take all of the bolts out. When you install the new clutch make sure that the side of the disk hub that sits out a bit from the main part is towards the pressure plate. On these I usually hold the disk against the pressure plate and lift both up in place through the opening in the bottom of the bellhousing. It's a bit tricky and a strength and agility test before you are done but it can be done. Make sure that you have the alignment tool close at hand so that you can stick it in to hold the disk and pressure plate up while you start installing the pressure plate bolts. Usually you are holding the pressure plate up with one hand while you are jockeying the disk around with the alignment tool so the tip of the alignment tool will go in the pilot bearing. Once that is done and the disk is centered you start putting the pressure plate bolts in (leave the alignment tool in until you have all the bolts tight. Then put the new throwout bearing in and install the transmission and the rest of the driveline.
Oh Yeah, One more thing. Those two bolts that were really hard to get a wrench on. You may want to space them out with a washer on each bolt so next time (hopefully not soon) you can get a wrench on them a bit better.
Thanks to all for the great tips and suggestions. We'll definitely use them and let you all know the result. Regards -B ****
Use peanut ****er to remove the pilot bearing - insert peanut ****er where TP is mentioned above - the animals will clean up the spray
With regard to the suggestion to have the flywheel turned. Can I remove the flywheel without pulling the engine? The shop manual isn't any help on this. If it can be remove while the engine is in the truck, is there anything I need to know? thanks
Funny this came up, my garage was wiped out by theives while moving but they did leave something that probably didn't look pawnshop worthy. A combination wrench with the boxed end severly ground, stuck into a piece of conduit hammered flat...a broke 16 year olds solution for this problem on my High school beater 68' Chevelle. (pipe allowed access from above) Theft=****ed, but that POS tool did bring back some fun memories of the way I beat on that car! Welcome/Good luck with the Truck!
Yes, the flywheel can be removed with the engine in the truck. In fact it has to come off before you can remove the bellhousing. Be careful as it is a heavy ****er and takes bit of wiggling to get it off the crank. Leave 1 bolt in by several threads until it's free. And it can only go back on in one position.
Super. Thanks again for the responses. John, so sorry to hear about your loss. Hope your insurance takes care of you. Regards -B ****
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