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Projects Advice on Soda Blaster Purchase/Rental

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by yellowsnow4free, Jun 23, 2010.

  1. yellowsnow4free
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 9

    yellowsnow4free
    Member
    from California

    Now that it's summer, it's back to my project.

    A 1965 Jeep Gladiator short bed with a bit of rust.

    I've come to the conclusion I want to soda blast it; I'm sure there's more rust than meets the eye.

    Looking online, I can't find a whole lot of info on soda blasting.

    It seems like Eastwood holds most of the market on soda blasters.

    I can get this one for ~$300, which isn't too bad if my Dad and I split it.

    Other than Eastwood, my only other thought is some Harbor Freight solution; I'm not sure what's offered there.

    The other option is to rent a soda blaster, but I'm having a hard time finding a place that rents them in the Bay Area (California).

    Anyway, if anyone has an idea for an inexpensive (i.e. under $300) solution, please share with me!

    Thanks!

    EDIT:

    A search for "soda" at Harbor Freight's website
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2010
  2. weldtoride
    Joined: Jun 14, 2008
    Posts: 260

    weldtoride
    Member

  3. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,478

    budd
    Member

    soda will not remove rust, there al lots of threads on here about media blasting, lots and lots.
     
  4. pdq67
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 787

    pdq67
    Member

    Please consider "plastic" or walnut shell blasting media and then you won't have to worry about de -pH'ing it later to paint it.

    pdq67
     
  5. blt2go
    Joined: Oct 27, 2009
    Posts: 551

    blt2go
    Member

    soda blasting is not the best for rust. however for sheet metal and all around stripping needs it is hard to beat for the cost. i use a commercial sized soda blaster for all my stripping needs then i etch the steel with a fine 60-80 grit plastic or even finer silica sand. this also removes any rust completely (and saves me from having to neutralize the soda residue before primer). if i had to buy a small blaster for home or small shop use i would look into something that can handle plastic media. make sure your compressor is up to the task, you can add holding tanks cheaper than upsizing compressors in most cases. if using a smallish compressor take frequent breaks and enjoy the abrasive in all your cracks. good luck, and have fun.
     
  6. pdq67
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 787

    pdq67
    Member

    He, He!!

    And "Black Beauty" will do wonders w/ removing rust on the cheap, but it is WAY aggresive!!

    So watch blowing through thin panels.

    pdq67
     
  7. yellowsnow4free
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 9

    yellowsnow4free
    Member
    from California

    Thanks for the reply.

    I guess I should clarify though: I wasn't interested in soda blasting to take care of the rust; I just wanted to soda blast so I can get the body down to the bare metal and know what I'm dealing with.
     
  8. blt2go
    Joined: Oct 27, 2009
    Posts: 551

    blt2go
    Member

    yellowsnow, no problem. as i said i really like soda for cleaning and removing paint or most anything else stuck to the surface. you do however have the neutralizing problem not encountered with sand or plastic media. i have never had a problem with getting primer to stick to sodablasted surfaces. i wash thoroughly with a mild detergent and a red scotch brite pad if i am not going to etch the surface with sand or plastic. like i said soda is my first step in building, i like to strip the vehicle while still complete (glass, chrome, and drivetrain). then i can address the problems as needed. sounds like you have a good game plan. sorry i cannot comment on the equipment you have asked about as i have no knowledge of the capabilities. you did however mention renting in the title, if you have a rental company that has specs on a machine i would be glad to look at them and give you and idea of time frame. depending of course on your vehicle size and condition. good luck and keep us posted. this is my rig, 275 cfm sullair with a 100 lb. sodablast pot and 20 gal. drier with air to air coolers. i can strip most full bodied cars in about 5 hrs. with 4-5 bags of soda.
     

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  9. yellowsnow4free
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 9

    yellowsnow4free
    Member
    from California

    ^ Thanks again for the info! I'll be sure to keep everyone posted.

    Now back to more online research...
     
  10. yellowsnow4free
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 9

    yellowsnow4free
    Member
    from California

    Okay, more research.

    So here's the candidate from Eastwood:
    110lb soda blaster - $280

    Harbor Freight, however, has a few options:

    40lb portable soda blaster - $200 (no image, unfortunately)

    Or, would this work?

    110 lb pressurized abrasive blaster - $130

    Let's do a quick visual comparison...

    Eastwood:

    [​IMG]

    Harbor Freight:

    [​IMG]

    Coincidence? Maybe. But if the Harbor Freight one can do soda (which HF sells, by the way; ~$35/40 for 50lbs) why not give it a shot? I can put the extra money towards a MIG welder from HF or maybe a better air compressor.

    Anyone have any thoughts?
     
  11. 6-71
    Joined: Sep 15, 2005
    Posts: 542

    6-71
    Member

    You can save even more by buying your soda at the local feed store.I paid 12 or 13 dollars for 50# .
     
  12. blt2go
    Joined: Oct 27, 2009
    Posts: 551

    blt2go
    Member

    great point 6-71. surely someone on here has experience with one of these units, and can attest to their capabilities. hf model does not appear to have as good a set up on metering as the eastwood model. you need to be able to control the air to nozzle and abrasive to nozzle independently. the valve may be on the back side and not seen i the pic. soda tends to pack under pressure how well do these units feed?
     
  13. joel torres
    Joined: Mar 22, 2009
    Posts: 823

    joel torres
    Member

    i think you would need some serious mouisture block to keep the water out or that things going to clog at the bottom
    blt2go does yours suck the media up thru a tube or is it bottom feed aswell and what is this 20 gal. drier with air to air coolers sounds like you dont get clogs just point and shoot
     
  14. jpm49c
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 397

    jpm49c
    Member

    What does the clear hose connect to on the Eastwood blaster at the hose end? Thanks!
     
  15. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,329

    73RR
    Member

    I have had the HF sand blast unit for over 25 years, and have cleaned alot of 'big' iron, frames and such. Works well.
    My limited use on sheet metal says that media size and type as well as air pressure needs to dialed in to the particular job. Oh yeah, buy a good respirator!!!

    .
     
  16. slobroy
    Joined: Jun 22, 2009
    Posts: 360

    slobroy
    Member

    The problem with buying feed store soda is it may not have the necessary flow control additive in it. by that I mean It may pack up inside of your blaster also you need a good airstream from your compressor. I too have a mobile soda blasting business. My advise is take it to someone that specializes in soda blasting and buy a good mig welder instead of a HF one.
     
  17. blt2go
    Joined: Oct 27, 2009
    Posts: 551

    blt2go
    Member

    my blast pot has the tube from bottom to top like you describe. it has pressure in the tank and the airflow comes in from the bottom. you raise and lower the tube to adjust the amount of abrasive. this keeps the clogging to a minimum. it also has a vibrator that knocks the clumps apart. the 20 gallon drier is basically a huge water trap that is filled with plastic honeycomb beads. the air to air cools the discharge air to minimize sweating inside the blast pot. i also have a 500lb. schmidt media pot that i use for heavy sand and plastic media.

    slobroy makes a good point, i don't have trouble with feed additive quality soda through the big unit but it may pose a problem with the smaller units. he also makes a good point to spend the money with an established blaster. it may not be as expensive as you think.
     
  18. yellowsnow4free
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 9

    yellowsnow4free
    Member
    from California

    How much do you think it would be?
    I've been looking online and estimates seem to go from $500+
     
  19. Leevon
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 400

    Leevon
    Member
    from Nixa, MO

    I have a neighbor that does commercial and private soda blasting. He does alot of Jeep tubs, frames, things like that. He had a fiberglass 'vette body in a few weeks ago and said it was a $600 job.

    I have the 20lb HF soda blaster and it's only good for small parts you don't want to abrade much like carbs and such. I also have the 40lb HF sandblaster and I still take my stuff to a place that does blasting. Running down the media, the time, mess and then you have to have a huge compressor (my 60 gallon barely hangs in) make it not worthwhile to do anything big. I keep a bag of each around for small stuff I can do in the driveway.

    Sandlasting is cheaper in my area. A local monument place does cars on the side with silica sand, last time I was there a '63 Impala body on a rotisserie was done for about $400. No warped panels in experienced hands.
     
  20. blt2go
    Joined: Oct 27, 2009
    Posts: 551

    blt2go
    Member

    i run right at 100 dollars per hour with soda. most jobs require a bag an hour, some (not many) require 1.5 bags per hour then i am 115 per hour. 500-750 seems about right for a gladiator. mind you this may not get the jambs or under hood done. i see your point about spending the money and having something to show at the end by buying the blaster. i wish i had more experience with the units you are looking at. what size compressor do you have? is it possible to rent a small unit to try before you buy? and how is hf on returns if it doesn't live up to your expectations? i wish you all the best and i will continue to try and help.
     
  21. yellowsnow4free
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 9

    yellowsnow4free
    Member
    from California

    Also, if I own a blaster I might use it on more projects :p

    1) The only compressor I have is my Dad's; a Coleman Powermate 4 gallon:

    [​IMG]

    I'm pretty sure a larger-capacity compressor would be required. The above Coleman took a dump a while back, and only works for short periods; a replacement is needed anyway.

    2) I've been looking online for a place to rent a blaster in my area; no luck. I don't think I can rent a blaster from HF either.

    3) HF's return policy:

     
  22. blt2go
    Joined: Oct 27, 2009
    Posts: 551

    blt2go
    Member

    i just bought an ir 5 hp 60 gal. as backup for my paint booth. used it with my little homemade soda blaster and it held up real well. it is around 13-15 cfm @ 90 psi. if memory serves. i wouldn't want to go any smaller that's for sure but then again i am spoiled with my big compressor. i can blast all day and the only thing that needs a rest is me. hf sounds good on return if you are not happy. i would look into a good compressor and give the hf unit a go. you will always use a good compressor.
     
  23. yellowsnow4free
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 9

    yellowsnow4free
    Member
    from California

    This might not be the place to ask, and I'm hesitant to ask another question seeing as you've helped me so much already, but what's considered a good air compressor?

    I guess my main questions would be: brand and price.

    Luckily, it looks like my local Craigslist has a number of used air compressors.
    5 HP 60 Gallon Air Compressor - $150
     
  24. blt2go
    Joined: Oct 27, 2009
    Posts: 551

    blt2go
    Member

    this is an excellent site to find out about stuff. most stuff anyway. i look for 220v single phase motor 5hp and up, two stage compressor has always been my preference but this ingersol rand single has done really well. 60gal. tank is pretty hard to beat, doesn't take up too much room and will handle most jobs with ease. ingersol is pricey there are great compressors out there that compare quality wise and are much cheaper. i also have a cheap puma 2 stage 6.5 hp. that has been reliable and makes good air. nothing will replace my big speedaire main shop compressor though, oldie but a goodie. you can find good used ones cheap, just check to see that it pumps without excessive noise and the compressor oil is clean and up to level. good luck.
     
  25. yellowsnow4free
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 9

    yellowsnow4free
    Member
    from California

    So looking at the specs on the HF blaster:

    What's the minimum air compressor I would need? (i.e. specs)
     
  26. narlee
    Joined: Dec 7, 2009
    Posts: 240

    narlee
    Member

    I had a HF blaster now I have the Eastwood soda blaster/sand blaster combo. I haven't used it as a soda blaster but the sand blastert is better than the HF.
     
  27. yellowsnow4free
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 9

    yellowsnow4free
    Member
    from California

    I expect the Eastwood blaster would be better, but when $ is a factor, it's hard to beat the price of the HF unit.
     
  28. reallylongnickname
    Joined: Jun 24, 2010
    Posts: 16

    reallylongnickname
    Member

    Given the environment is usually humid, what is the necessary amount of filter strength for sand blasting before it becomes overkill? For the purpose of painting, 0.01 micron filter is always good.
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2010

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