I'm putting some Edelbrock heads and a Fenton 2x2 intake on my 59ab flatty. I've read enough that I feel like I could probably get through it without any issues. Are there any common mistakes that I need to be aware of before I start? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
First thing, to avoid broken head bolts, uh wait.. you probably have studs/nuts??? I was going to say use the impact wrench to remove the head bolts, to avoid breaking any... I'm not so sure on the nuts/studs situation. someone else with more knowledge on the 59A engines I'm sure will have some tips. all I know is the one engine I took apart that had studs was a real pain to get the heads off the block. I had to remove almost every stud (double nut) before the heads would slide up and off the block. plus I've removed quite a few broken studs with the welder too btw I'm just up the street from you, if you need a hand. Cheers Josh
Correct. It has studs. I'm hoping everything comes apart easily as it's new motor put in the car in 1962 and only has 5k miles on it since. I shot all the nuts w/WD40 few times over the last couple weeks hoping to start breaking them free.
Do you have race or street edelbrocks? If race (all new heads are ) you need long studs. The old street heads use the stock studs.
on a flathead banger with studs I usually loosen up all the bolts and crank the motor over and let the compression break the head free of the block. Don't see why it wouldn't work on a flathead 8 .
Instead of the WD40 I recommend Gibbbs Brand. It's the best penetrant bar none. go to Roadsters.com and find out how to order it. Frank
Once you have installed the heads torque them in sequence to around 55 ft/lbs. Fill with water and start it up. Allow it to reach operating temperature and shut down. Allow to cool (6-8hrs?) and re-torque again. Repeat this heat/cool/retorque sequence at least 3 times or until nuts stop moving. I recommend Best Brand Graph***e gaskets personally. Jim