Brake Master Cylinder

I'm trying to build a custom looking engine bay in my 1950 Chevy 3100 running a nailhead engine. What would look nicer the master cylinder and booster on the friewall or frame?

 

Either way a dual circuit master would be smart

 

I mounted mine under the dash using a 90 degree unit that mounts it sideways.
It can't be seen anywhere.
I wanted a clean firewall but hanging pedals.

 

I only worry about the easiest to install and work on, and that tends to be on the firewall, you don't need residual valves or any fancy filler arrangements and you can build it to use whatever's cheapest to buy new at the parts store. I mean no one's going to know or care where it is when you drive down the road, only that you can stop when you're supposed to.

 

I did see one of those truck cab style hotrod builds where the guy had the master cylinder on the firewall and the booster hidden under the dash with some special lever action gizmo to make it work.
It was not a remote booster setup.

It looked kinder cool as it kept the older style look of just a master cylinder yet he had the luxury of boosted brakes.

Sorry no pic's but I do believe it was a kit unit.

 

This one is similar to mine.
Uses a bell crank system.

 

I think I am going to go with frame mounted kit to keep the firewall clear but I am not 100% sure

 

I always opt for the frame mount,looks good and feels natural.Try to make sure cylinder is higher than wheel cyls and or calipers,if not residual ck valves will solve any stuff that don`t bleed correctly.Ck out Stainless steel brakes web site for details. good luck.Mine work fine.

 

Frame mount. A booster on the firewall usually kills the looks of an engine bay for me, but that's just my opinion.

On my '56 F-100 it has a Camaro Clip and Manual Disc Brakes front and rear. It's got the master cylinder under the floor. I want power brakes so I'm going to upgrade it to a hydroboost unit, using the power steering pump as the pressure supply for the hydroboost. This gives me power brakes, but without a big booster hanging below the frame. The hydroboost unit also supplies more brake pressure than a conventional vacuum booster.

 

I went frame mount - used a Nova dual chamber and modified an original truck bracket and it worked out fine. I can even fill it using the stock filler access hole in the floor.

I don't have a booster, but the pedal effort to stop is easy enough with 4 wheel drums.




All it took was a metal cutting bandsaw, some 1/2" thick flat bar and a hole saw and some welding.




Kinda busy with brake lines, 4spd linkages all in one spot but works great.