Question about the 700R4 transmission???

I had a post a while ago about a 327 motor I picked up for my 46 Harvester truck project I'm working on. I was advised that the 700R4 was the best choice for this combo. I can get a low mileage 700R4 for $250 from a local guy. My question is what do I look for? I've never seen one. Does it say 700R4 on it? Is there a specific model that I need or are they all the same? I ask because I know they are used in 2wd and 4wd models.
Thanks for the help.

 

Look for this.......

 

Copied this from Wikipedia

700R4 / 4L60 / 4L60E / 4L65E Technical Description
The 700R4 can be identified by the oilpan having a rectangular shape being longer front-to-rear than side-to-side and held to the transmission by 16 bolts: three bolts front and rear; five bolts left and right sides.
The tailshaft housing is held onto the main case by four bolts (the bolt spacing is similar to the THM350), and uses a square-cut o-ring seal, and not a gasket. The typical width of this transmission where it bolts to the engine is 20 in (51 cm) overall. From the engine/trans mating surface to the crossmember mount bolt is 22.5 in (57 cm), and engine/trans surface to output shaft housing mating surface is 23.375 in (59.37 cm) overall, with the tailshaft housing typically measuring 7.625 in (193.7 mm).
Transmission fluid cooler lines on the 700R4 the bottom fitting on the right side of the transmission is the "out" line to the cooler and the top fitting is for the return line from the cooler. These fittings are .25 in (6.4 mm) pipe thread, and CAN include an adapter from the factory for threaded steel lines in a SAE size. 4L60Es manufactured after 1995 use the modern-day snap-in connections as opposed to threaded SAE fittings.
The original version of the transmission had a 27-spline input shaft which was a common failure point. In 1984, 700R4's designed for use behind Chevrolet small block V8's received a 32-spline input shaft similar to those found on classic TH400 transmissions and which also used a different torque converter than its 2.8 V6 and 2.2 L4 powerplants. Between 1984-1987, internal components, from the ring gear to the oil pump housing, were updated, ending with the auxiliary valve body (for 700s manufactured after October 1986).

 

Will any version of the 700 bolt up to an early small journal 327?

 

As far as I have researched, all the SB V8 motors and 4.3L V6 have the same pattern, so any one should bolt up to it.

 

Thanks...

 

Make sure it's a chevy pattern trans, not the Buick,olds, pontiac


Also, a local guy modded a bunch of the 700s 10 years ago. He said "86 up is a lot better".

Not sure if you know they were computer controlled lock up convertors? If you don't make it able to lock up, it will overheat and fail.

There must be kits to make it fully automatic lock up. This guy did some tricks with a ball bearing under the lock up solenoid and maybe the valve body. His 700s worked perfect

the cable to the carb must be adjusted perfect also, to prevent failure.

 

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml

Should answer a pantload of questions for ya. Someone turned me on to this site so, passin it on.

 

make sure its 89 or newer, and pay particular attention to the throttle valve cable hookup and adjustment. They are an OD with a lock up and you don;t want a anything higher than maybe 3.23 rear end, maybe even 3.55. I have one behind my studebaker engine with a 3.7 ford 9 inch and the calculators say with my tires it should be right around 22/2200 rpm at 65 on the highway. maybe a bit less withthe lockup engaged.

 

check here http://texasz.net/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/4L60/ID A 4L60.htm

 

I installed one in a A-Body to a 350ci '72 Chevy motor with no problems as far as bolt pattern. Make sure you get the 88 or 89 to 92 I think version. You do not want the older ones. Also you have to set the T.V. cable up correctly using a pressure gauge that threads into the driver's side of the case. Easy to do and yet easy to screw up. Also on some 700r4's the speedo in the tail shaft can be mechanical or electric. So you'll need to get a conversion for this. Plenty of this stuff in the market to set up this combo. I originally had a 2.73:1 rear gear with the orginial TH350. However I quickly went to a 3.55:1.

I'll second--
BowtieOverdrives.com is a great source of info, adapters, etc for doing this swap.

As far as what to use? The 700r4 was bolted to damn near anything GM had in a RWD platform. including the small pickups and blazers with the 4.3 v6. I have heard that the truck and van ratios are different. Cant recall. Again there is a lot of info about this swap.

 

Damn. Should I just go with a TH350 or 400?

 

I installed one in my current project,not on the road yet.But if i knew then what i know now i would have stuck with a 350 auto,less drama!

 

It is hard to accept a three speed automatic if you are driving other vehicles with OD. The Ford AOD I put in my F100 has been a much appreciated addition. My 46 coupe still has a C4 and I always feel like it is still in second when I drive it on the highway. Have an AOD standing by for it. As far as 700R4's, the one in my 84 GMC pickup had 210,000 on it when I sold it and still worked great. I would go for the OD myself.

 

I like to drive mine, an I agree.. 350/400/T10 4speed or any 1:1 final ratio trans, just don't get with me anymore. Not after using my 700R4, for the last 15 yrs. My Dads cars all have 350/400s & I'm always anticiapating another shift on the fwy.

 

I have a friend that owns an A1 transmission and I'm sure he could help me set it up right. How will I be able to tell what year it is? And should I get a shift kit and what kit? I'm so far off on actually installing it I will have my friend install the kit and change any seals/filters if needed. Just want to plan ahead.

 

I'm using one in my 50 chevy.Manual lockup kit is available from Summit for around $70. Works really well, I do have a diagram that shows you how to do it yourself, I think the diagram was on bowtieoverdives.

 

Okiedokie, What is the size difference between C4 and AOD, I also have a C4 in a 47. At 70 mph I am turining 2100.

Oldrod 47

 

There is no ""BOP" TH700R4s, though there are versions with the 2.8-3.1-3.4 V6 pattern, which will not work on a V8. Even if you could make an adapter plate, the bellhousing is tiny for the smaller V6 convertor. If you're planning on using it as-is, I'd get one from a 3rd Gen V8 F-body, or a V8 truck. The 4.3 V6 versions will work fine, but aren't built as strong. A rebuild with good parts will fix this, though, so its only a consideration if you're not rebuilding the trans. The 4x4 versions will be obvious, since there will either be a transfer case hanging off to the side, or the output shaft will be sticking out of the housing.

Lockup kits are available if you are reusing the stock convertor, or you can get a non-lockup aftermarket convertor.

The TV cable is pretty easy to adjust...I think some of the aftermarket makes a big deal out of it, to scare people into dropping more $$$ for their idiot-proof designs.

 

The Hot Rod Company(Alliance vendor on the HAMB) sells a real simple lock up kit. It hooks up with 2 wires.

 

theres a round servo cover on the right side..

 

2004r are overdrive,same length as a short tailshaft 350 closer gear spacing.

 

Cant remember if you said what rear gears your running but if they are higher then 3.08's and your gonna drive it every day id go with the over drive. I have a turbo 350 and when i switched my rear gears to 3.73's i hated it. My tach is at 3000rpm at 55mph. I live 38 miles from work and it takes a half a tank to go to work and back one time. But im also running a 450hp 383 stroker. Id go OD.

 

I like these for space-limited, lower HP swaps (they can be beefed considerably, for big $$)...especially x-framed early 60s Chevys and C2/3 Vettes. The length is the same as a Th350 or a 'glide, but the mount isn't in the same place. On an early Impala, I fabbed a new crossmember rather than reworking the old one (easier). Much easier than a 700 for this application, since you don't have to shorten the 2-piece driveshaft.

For anything that came with a TH350, you can generally just move the crossmember back.

The gear split is a little better than the TH700R4.

 

OK. here's what I can get for $250. 700R4 out of an 88' Formula Firebird with 38K on the odometer. Has the torque converter. No Torque converter lockup. Just an electronic overdrive.

Not knowing much about these transmissions, does this sound like a good option?

 

i would go for it ,you wont regret od.low miles too

 

A number is stamped on the passenger side just above the trans pan. I believe the first digit will tell you what year it is.

 

No doubt the AOD is larger. I have an AOD in the shop I can measure, the C4 is in my 46 and not as easy to measure. The diminsions are available online I am sure. I can measure if you need.

 

Ill pick it up Monday and post up the casting number.

 

I suspect the 88 also has a mechanical speedometer drive, which will greatly simplify your life as far as that goes, it will run the stock IH speedo if you want to run that and either change the gear or use a GPS to figure how far off it is.