Finishing the chassis for my 34 three window

Getting fairly close to the end of the work on the ch***is for my 34 three window. The last time I posted I was finishing up the engine and the Transmission and Quickchange rear. See a 50 merc. for 34 three window. All the metal work on the body and fenders is finished and its all in primer. See Saving a ford 34 three window. Today I finished making a fuel log that will mount on the back of the blower for the Webers. I need to run the fuel lines and make the carb linkage . I hope I have the Webers close in their jetting. Theres not much information on running them on a blown flathead. Ive done the math, hope I am correct. Any weber experts, please chime in. Thanks

 

I hate all talented creative people

 

Damn..

 

That's pretty killer!!! I might be starting on my '33 3w this winter although I am sure it'll be nothing as nice as what you have posted. I'm digging that flathead for sure though@ Is that 4-71?

 

Lookin' good!!!

 

The blower is a B&M 144. It came off of a small block Chevy. I had to shorten the drive to get it to line up with the pullys on the flathead. It is only putting out 6 pounds of boost. I didnt want to be to hard on the bottom end of the motor.

 

Nice work! that blower looks fairly "period." You picked it up used then? How much trouble did you have modifying it? Shortening up the long snout makes a big difference in the look, in the views that you posted.

 

A friend of mine had that blower. It was used very little He had a plate on top of it for two 4 barrels. Way to much gas.It was not polished when I got it . To shorten the drive you have to remove the pully, there is a 3/8 bolt that goes into the driveshaft Once the pully is removed there is a seal then a snap ring that holes the front drive bearing in. Remove the seal then the snap ring. Remove the allen head bolts that holes the drive cover on. Tap on the front drive housing with a rubber hammer and the drive shaft will come off with the housing. The other end of the drive shaft is splined it will come out of the hub as well. Take the rubber hammer and tap on the splined end to remove the bearing and drive shaft from the case. The bearing is a light press to remove from the shaft. The drive shaft is easey to shorten. Remove the amount you need from the end of the shaft that the pully goes on. Do this on a lathe with a cutoff tool, then rethread that end to 3/8 fine. The case was marked the amount I need to remove. I scribed a mark to index the two halfs when they went back together. I cut the two halfs off in a shop saw . Went back to the lathe and clean up the cuts. I left 3/16 on the outer piece of housing and turned the od down to fit inside the other piece. I tig welled two pieces back together The drive case is not the same od , it gets smaller at the pully end . I used a belt sander to blend to two pieces back together.I removed all of the allen bolts in the blower and made studs using stainless acron nuts. It makes it look more vintage.

 

That flatty is a thing of beauty.

 

Wish my 33 build looked something like this. That looks like it cost more than my whole build!

 

Wow!

Absolute marvelous job!

HC.

 

Let us know what you get out of the Flathead if you DYNO it Please!!

 

Very nic traditional set up. Great job!

 

Looking awesome, Allen! Keep up the incredible work!

 

Cool flathead, I want to biuld one so bad....... one day

If the car is half as nice as the ch***is its going to be one hell of a nice car........

 

Really nice set up...

Thanks for taking the time to explain the blower set up...

This is what its about...

Very cool project man...

 

***s

 

Nice!

 

Well that's just bad ***!!

 

That ch***is looks great.

Could you tell us about the rear cross member? Looks like you put a Model A cross member into the middle of a '34 cross member.

 

Brian, it looks exactly like the Pierson Brother's Coupe which spliced the Model a center into the factory '34 crossmember so I'd say you're correct.

 

Actually might be the So-Cal Comp Coupe. Stand by I'm checking.

 

Pierson.

 

Ha! Thanks.

 

Guys thanks for the kind remarks. I have done all the work myself so it has not cost to much. Of course I have spent money in the parts and plating,also the cost of the machine work on the engine. Getting it bored and balance and pressure tested. I had the Webers. I rebuilt the Webers and polish them along with the heads, intake, blower,and Weber manifold. What a dirty job. I had to make the brackets to mount the alt. and the belt tenioner.
I just used the center of the model a cross member and tig welded it into the 34 crossmember. I grafted a plate into the frame rail for the 56 steering box. I wont install the box untill the body is on. Here is a few more photos.

 

I was coping really well, until you added the body pic, now I'm jealous. Nice work.

 

It looks real nice. But I suggest you remove the inline brake switch and use an electric switch that's activated by the pedal. In less than 8 years I had to replace my inline switch 3 times. The last time I installed an electric one. With yours being under the car, it certainly won't be fun to replace.

 

Corn Fed, Thanks for your advise. I have heard other people say that about a inline brake switch. I put 40 brakes on my 34 roadster about ten years ago and have not had any problems. I get the switch from my local NAPA. What type of brake fluid are you using ? You are right now is the time to change it.

 

Just using regular brake fluid. I too have had others say they had the same issue. My problem may have been aggrivated by the fact that my cars sit for 6 months out of the year without use.

 

Wonderful craftsmanship, Allen. Beautiful job. Those Webers look wicked siting up there. I want to hear the thing run!