Went the track this weekend and saw this Lancer It has a straight axle with rack and pinion steering. He mounted the rack to the axle said it has NO bumpsteer or any handling issues, uses a telescoping steering shaft because of the rack moving up and on the axle. After talking to the guy I'm thinking about dumping the stock box and going this route, has anybody here messed with this type of set up?
The obnly real way to go with a rack and a straight axle is to mount it to the axle. I've done it for fellas with good results but it looks ugly as **** on an open wheel car. I'm not real big on the rack and pinion on a heavier car. They don't seem to hold up well. Maybe on a dedicated drag car that only goes fast in a straight line for a short distance. There is another option they make a rack that is dead mounted on one side then operates by steering one spindle like a cross steer setup. They say those work real well. I don't recall who markets them but it shouldn't be hard to find out.
I built a T-bucket and the owner wanted a R&P,we used the Uni-steer.It works OK but has a HUGE turning radius,I took it to a front end shop that deals with all types of non-stock front suspensions and they found nothing wrong.It goes down the road great,just don't try to make a tight turn!!! ROY.
Yes, get a telescoping joint and setup using susp. travel limits/bumpers/shocks that stop before the joint bottoms or tops out. Used a VW Rabbit GTI R&P, cheap & good response. Ahem...as to ugly, I resemble that remark!
The set up this guy used looked like a MII rack and was mounted to the center of the axle. I do not care about looks but on my little Chebby II it would give me a ton of room for header and oil pan clearance! and should be fine for a straight line car.
30/31 Model A roadster. 2 1/2 in Moredrop. Used a Dodge colt R&P mounted to the Axle. Worked great. Used 2 Borgensen Joints and Using stock arms bent down for the Drop in the axel you could turn it around on the same side of the street, From the curb that is. Also Honda civics have a good R&P
Have to admit, I've considered it... but only because I already have a rack out of a 1959 Austin-Healey Sprite. But since this would be on my 27 T Touring, no fenders, I probably won't just for looks.
Gladeparkflyer;I tried to tell him that but his wife didn't like that plan!!!! I always thought the "long skinny pedal" was for accelerating AND steering!!!! ROY.
If I'm not mistaken that's identical to a Morris Minor rack, which has the peculiarity of having no universal to the steering column. For that reason those were often used under the floors of T-buckets in some parts of the world, mounted fore-and-aft and operating a drag link.
I'm thinnkinjg of doing this on my 48 suburban. I don't see how the weight of the car/truck would make a difference because a mII conversion wouldn't be any different.
This goes without saying ,but for someone who may be new to this p***ionate endevor we share, Remember that Rack/ pinion are position sensitive, as in if they are originaly on a car behind the front axle thats where they have to be mounted, in front originaly on the axle they must be installed on the front of the new axle.Believe me I have seen them installed wrong.
I know I need a rear steer for my suburban, that shouldn't be a problem. Not sure if a jag is rear steer and not many of them around here that I have seen in the bone yards.
If I remember correctly the column did mount straight in to the rack without a universal. (been a while since I took it out) When used for the T-buckets as you described; With one side of the rack operating the drag link, what did they do with the other end? Just leave it moving in/out, hanging out in space?
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