New Engine break in

I just built a new motor for the coupe, just was wondering how some of you break in a new engine.Break in oil,prime the pump,providing you have no leak's. What RPM do most of you run.I have my way of doing it , but i am alway's looking for new ideas. Motor is a 350 4 bolt, Thank's.........PINCHER

 

You can pre prime the oil system with a old dizzy that you gut and remove the cam gear, but it has to turn counter clockwise. If it's a new cam, fire the engine and run it over 2500rpm and vary the speed to break it in. Should run for 20 min or so.

 

Once the proper cam bedding process is accomplished. Vary your rpm when driving and give it some moderate loading (acceleration). Piston rings use combustion pressures to help outward pressure and face loading to help seat them into the cylinder walls. Pu&&y footing the right foot will/can glaze cylinder walls and take for ever to seat.

Other that the cam/lifters and rings, no other engine parts require any special treatment.

Oh Yea!! don't over fuel an new engine. Better to be conservative on jetting during breaking in the rings so you don't wash the cylinder walls of the oil.

 

I agree with the above, get the timing right quick, and get it over 2500 and leave it there with a few throttle blips here and there.

One thing that I've learned in the past and have done it ever since.

Fill the radiator with ONLY WATER. If you find a leak, and 50% of the time you will, it won't be antifreeze all over the place and sticky.

I've had one car a guy I know just did, and the heater core was junk after a rebuild, so it filled up the interior. He uses water also and just had to dry everything out and no antifreeze all over the place.

 

In the car OR on the stand ?

I AGREE WITH AG F/C<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_5557979", true); </SCRIPT> IF its in the car already...

If its on the stand run RPM up and down between 1200 and 2000 for

twenty to thirty mins

making sure to watch the temp and oil pressure,

check to make sure your timing is good or your headers might GLOW a little.

Hope this helps.

 

whether the cam needs broke in or not this is how I do it. Start it and keep it at 3000 + for at least 10min, if it gets hot or something don't let it idle, just shut it off. fix the problem and rev her again to 3k + for another 10 mins or so. While its revving its a perfect time to get your timing set ( I always tune my ignition to be at full advance by 3k).
I always use a thin film of atf on the cylinders and just enough oil on the rings to make them wet. The rings will seat right away if you don't goop up the cylinders too much.
Ill use a heavier oil like rotella t and add a can of zddp stuff for break in. Change the oil after the first 1/2 hr to hour of running.

I'm a firm believer in breaking an engine in the way you are going to drive it. If you are building it to run hard, then once you make sure all of its vitals are OK, Run it as hard as you built it to run.

 

Oops, forgot to say unless you are dam sure about the dead timing get a dial back light hooked up on it and once it fires set your timing to 25-30 degrees total timing at 2000- 2500. Never try to set initial before breaking in the cam. 25-30 at 2000-2500 and no load is perfectly safe untill you can idle it.

 

1800 to 2000 rpm first 20 min. then take it down to 1000 for about 10. then tune it load it on the trailer take it to the track and race it,

 

With a modern engine like mid 50s on once it is past camshaft break in drive the way yoy intend to use it forever. I tell my engine customers drive it like you stole it. There is nothing worse for an engine than babying it . Rings dont seat well is probably the bigges tproblem. If it is any good at all you wont hurt it in anyway jumping on it as long as you stay within Rpm limits for the combo and make sure it isnt leaking or overheating.
Don

 

Hey Parklane,

Did you say "counter clockwise",,? ,,,I thought the pump turns clockwise on a Chevy?

Tommy

 

Or if a roller cam don't worry about it just plug and play after tuning. Id still use the zddp additive just in case.

 

A recent article I read in an engine rebuilder mag said to use NON detergent oil for breakin. It claims NON-D oil has zinc, and zinc and detergents compete chemically to coat the clean parts. If detergent is present it will win. Once the engine is broken in go to detergent.