Can you guys help me out with picks of a pedal assembly and set ups in t style cars with a manule box. thanks
hey..... we are putting a home-made (i.e. ripped off the design) version of this in my '26 T. It might be a pain to fill with fluid, and you've got to run a hydraulic clutch..... but it is tidy, and there are no holes through your floor.
could you explain or show how the brake master works mounted side ways, I want to put this setup in my A pickup
I am presumeing that the plate that links the pedal to the master cylinder is triangular. Are you running the same distance on each side so it had an even amount of movement? Are you using a booster as well. I am running 49 dodge drums in my 22 dodge. Again that is a top set up
Look at any add from Kugel Komponents and you will get a good idea of how they work. It is similar to what Dodge uses in their vans so a trip to the wrecking yard will net you a first hand look. Frank
I used a set of pedals out of a Pinto in my T roadster. Eighties Mustangs are very similiar. The big advantage is the cable clutch set up which in a small car can make working out how to get the clutch to work quite simple. Designing linkage isn't my forte, but then nothing else is either.......
Heres an idea for you speedway motors has a limited space pedal setup that they were selling in their stock car catalog. also they have a set up with the masters aiming inward (reverse mount) I dont know can we use html on the new board? Patrick
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/eCCStoreFront/smi/product_images//Full/91029974.jpg Not sure either but I think this works.
I used some out of a Datsun pickup on the Roach Rod... Maybe Miles or ElPolacko can get a pic of 'em up! Sam.
You don't have to run the m. cyl's. side by side. My Model A pedals from the Deuce Factory were set up for brakes and a mech. clutch. With a longer rod the clutch m.c. can be set slightly behind for clearance. And a hyd. throwout will save space. I also heated the arms and moved the pedals closer together. My steering col. is high, but in a T it goes out at the pedals so you almost have to split the clutch and brake as you don't want to catch a foot going from gas to brake. I've seen gas moved atop tranny hump, but looks a little cumbersome for starting on a hill, so cut away whatever clearance you can between body and b/h to get gas as close to brake as possible, probably still won't allow rolling your foot off the brake onto the gas.
The MC is operated sideways by means of a bellcrank. The pedal has it's pivot behind the main structure there (close to the bottom edge) and then is linked with spherical rod ends (heim ends) to the bellcrank, and the bellcrank pushes on the MC with another spherical end. You could use a power booster on it, but that would probably be over the top for a T. I think that the Kugel setup does run a 1:1 bellcrank, although if you were going to make your own, you have the opportunity to have a different ratio on the bellcrank, which would allow for shorter pedals, and if you're really cramped for space, that might be nice. I think you want about a 7:1 or 6:1 ratio (total) between the pedal and MC movement. So, if you had a ratio to your bellcrank, say 1:1.5, and your pedal movement arrived at the bellcrank with a 4.5:1 ratio, 1.5 x 4.5 = 6.75:1..... in the ballpark (and this would give you short little pedals). Ugh, don't ya hate math?