Frame Dilemma or anyone with a bent(?) frame .. When I started the 2 door conversion, I realized that the body leaned to one side from the rear, after looking further into it turns out the rear body mounts (at the trunk) were gone. So I straightened the body out by lifting the rear drivers side frame horn to level out the car. Placed that side on jack stands and started cutting and replacing metal, reinforcing body mounts, reinforced the bottom rear door corners, reinforced the pillar, chopped the top, converted to 2 door etc. Well I put on the wheels and behold the body still leans to the divers side rear, throws the door alignemtn a bit off a bit. That rear (drivers) side is about ¾ inch lover than the other side. Everything measures correctly, the replaced body mounts are the same thickness, the car has been reinforced to prevent it from leaning, everything. I measured the frame, and everything lines up till that point on the drivers side, then the car leans, I place the jack under the rear driver side bumper support and lift it about 1 inch and the body levels out. My question is how in the heck do I fix this? Am I missing something? I removed the gas tank, so can I just weld angle iron or boxed steel across the rear frame horns when I lift the rear drivers side bumper support and weld the **** out of it? Should I just lift the rear (ds) bumper support and jump on the other (p***enger) bumper support to straighten it? Should I cut a notch on one end of that rear cross member straighten the rear of the frame (rear horns) and weld the notch to straighten it out . I have attached images of the frame I am talking about and another of what it is I am dealing with. Im bent . Rey
I think ya gotta tell us what kinda car. If its transverse leaf springs, its a common problem. Look for wear at all points, swap the spring around, see if the frames bent. Is it an Oldsmobile 88?
you got half of it right. 1) you wrap a chain around the p***enger side frame rail near the bumper bracket. 2) wrap a chain around the frame rail in front of the driver side rear wheel. 3) wrap another chain around the frame rail. just in front of the driver side rear wheel. the chains need to be anchored to chain pots on the ground. (they are metal cylinders with chains sticking out of them placed in concrete) 4) last one. use the floor jack to raise the the low frame rail. now you will need nee to raise more than what it's hanging down. to compansate for the rebound. (so if the frame rail is hanging 3/4" down. you should push it up 1/2" p***ed the 3/4" that it hangs.) its really easy but hard to describe while typing. it usally takes 3 times before the frame will stay in place. in between each try check the gaps and fit of the panels. i've done this plenty of times. you might need to apply heat but you don't want to notch it to make it go up. if you need anymore info let me know and i will PM you my #.
Yes it is a 53 Olds 88 frame, similar to the 51 to 53 frames they are all the same. low springs: I understand, and drew it out and it makes sense. But how would I go about placing these anchors to/in cement that has already been poured, understandibly I cannot use the pot because of this, but how about large cement screws(?) and a plate with a "hook" on it? I am sure I have seen them here before.
until your possitive its the frame, i would use air shocks with seperate lines to level it ... are you sure it doesnt have a bum spring?? unless that car was hit real hard at one time its kinda unlikely the frame is bent..
I have thought about air shock method, actually I have air shocks on it now, without lines, but I will hook it up and give it try this evening. I am looking to replace the springs with a 4 link, and yes the springs do look like ****. As far as it being hit, it has not.
Another idea brought up by a pal here at work, reminded me of my lowrider days when hydros were the rage, we use to do the following, weld a piece of flat steel against the frame where the rear arc of the frame starts to straighten out , of course this was to fix a cracked frame, so I am wondering it that may help?
If the car was ever hit in the ***, even a little, it could have closed the arch that goes over the rear axle. I've had it happen on my race cars... only worse. Anytime I had it happen, I just cut a slot in the frame, bent it where I wanted it and plated it. It's really hard to get it to do what you want without the cut, especially with the body bolted on. Just my way of quick fixing my stock car... and I should know. JOE The red line is where the steel would be compressed, and would need to be opened up.
One last time before it disappears..... Anyone got an idea for anchors in cement that has already been poured?
Couldn't you do this by attaching chains and jack to a really stout chunk of I-beam under the car? Also, if the points of attachment are close enough together, remember that your town may provide neat steel gratings over sewer drains that might do the job.
Anchors are installed after the floor has been poured. Talk to your local auto body supply. They should be able to hook you up with someone who can do the job. Last ones I saw done ran 40.00 ea. (a few years ago.) However DO NOT bend your frame until you KNOW it's bent. Hard to say without seeing it, but it sounds like you have a suspension problem. BTW, don't cut your frame to straighten it. If it's bent that bad, get it pulled.
I do agree... Anyone knows a good alignment shop could jig it and pull it, to do it right. Hell, just to check it. To do it quick and cheap... cut it. He asked... You could, also, put a jack under the rear of the frame rail, and slowly heat the same area I have marked in my other post. It'll stretch, and to move the end of the frame up that little bit, you won't have to stretch it very far or get it too hot in too big of an area. Start by getting the bottom hot, and work your way up the side of the rail. The cold portion at the top will act to slow the process and give you control of how fast and how far it moves. Maybe clamp a straight edge to the side of the rail to determine how far you've moved it. Actually, you could heat it FIRST, then jack it. There's probably alot of "ways" to do it... **** it... take it to a shop. JOE
try these links it shows you how to install them and there only $20 each. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/anchorinst1.html http://www.autotoolmart.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=1600&p_catid=&sid=fg1x11ES2iS5rr-40105383566.d4 someone had a tech post here once. on how they made there own anchors without cutting the floor up. very easy and nice. i'll try to find it.
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