New Flathead in the works....build thread !!

Why couldn`t you run any other head?

You match the relief to the head gasket...not to the head

And a full relief wouldn`t lower the CC much.

It`s just more work....

With that head you should have a good transfer area

Michael

 

The Frick head has a nice CC !

 

Errr....think A - - - N

Rat

 

OK......!

Then don`t touch the block!

 

Thanx AFL...I have already factored for the increase in seat pressure for the blown application with the cam I will be using.

This is the second blown combo that Ill be putting together - the first wokred really well other then the pin circlip that let go.

All good, thanx for your input champ !!.

Rat

 

You love to keep us on the edge of our seats, don'tcha ya Bastad!!

MADNESS!!

HC.

 

90lb pressure on a BBC ???? that is way to little!!!!!

But enough on a Flathead

 

Sure is. He installed a roller cam to boot. Given the steep opening and closing ramps of a roller, it required new springs and seat pressure of 180lbs. (plus new valves, seats done and all set up) Once all that was done, it went well

The unfortunate thing was that the shop he bought the components from said "Just fit that cam and lifters and away you go" If he had the right information from day one, it would have worked out fine. "Never trust an 18 year old to sell you parts"

 

Heres the update....

Bloody freezing out in the garage tonite - outside there was rain, hail the works - nasty. Least we have the kero heater to keep kinda warm haha !!

So....

The short is finally together - after some "consulting" with Big Jungle Jim....thanx for the pointers champ !!

After a thorough cleaning,detailing/painting, the Scat crank went in and the crank plugs also cleaned and were loctited into place; the crank actually came with these plugs but someone had added moly lube to them and they were LOOSE. Ouch....

The crank however spins like its on ball bearings without the seal; even with the seal in place you can easily turn over the crank by hand. All this with out "loose" clearances. Nice.

Rings were gapped to allow for the bore size and blown application and all came together nicely.

So at this point the bottom end is in, all torqued up and lookin good.....next up I will re check the lash and re lube the cam for the fire up. I wont be turning over the engine till I fire her after that as I dont want to be removing cam lube from the lobes / lifter bases.

The Scat H beam tods are the 2.139" std big end type and upon close inspection they also have a slightly offset rod bearing to allow clearance for the fillet radius on the crank. They looked kinda offset to my eye so remembering the Big Jungle Jim was running a similar combo I bounced it off him and he confirmed that this indeed is the case when using a Scat FH crank/rod combo so its a must the the rods are installed in the correct manner to allow for clearance to the fillet radius on the crank.. Is also worth noting that the Scat H beams do NOT have an oil hole in the big end of the rod that spits out oil to the bottom of the cam/lifters for extra oiling making proper break in/ZDDP additive cheap insurance against wiping a lobe, esp when running combos with stiffer valve springs. Why Scat did'nt add the oil hole I'm not sure.

So to that end the assemply went nicely and Ill be playing with the heads/top end next....

Rat

 

Some pix....

Rat

 

Looking good Rat, good to see you're keeping busy!

 

What happened to your hemi plym project btw?

 

Hey Farmer.....the Hemi is there and awaiting machining, its actually sitting in the coupe atm haha !!

When the FH is back in the coupe I might be on the hunt for the right Plym/Dodge for the Hemi down the track.

Rat

 

Shit Rat . . . you've got more paint on that damn engine than most Rat Rodders have on their whole car I think you need make the rest of the car all rusty - just to show that flathead off

Nice stuff! Remind me about the cam you're running - has slipped my foggy mind?

On seat pressure - you just don't need much on a flathead - even with a blower. FlatDog and I talked about this numerous times. He took his dual Isky springs OUT and went back to Isky 185G and ran about 90 - 100 on the seat - with a .450 lift roller cam and heavy lifters. I used to run 90 on the seat with my blown motor - using cut-down 426 Hemi valves.

 

Good to see you made it all fit in there. Nice one. Keep me posted.

 

I'd relieve it. A .100-.125" relief lowers CR only about .3 in a 276" engine and increases flow even on Baron heads - albeit above 3000rpm.

Looks great! Can't wait to hear the fire-up video!

 

Hey Dale...

I'll be running about about 100 lbs on the seat as well....slightly shimmed 185Gs. I dont like excessive spring pressure but this amount will be fine with my cam / lung.

The cam is a Tatom kustom grind and ill be running the solid adjustables, theyll be fine for this combo !!.Flatdog was the man....miss his input !

Ernie, Im gonna leave her unrelieved for the short term even though it will flow better with a tradtional .125" relief. There may be changes down the track so I'll worry about it then.

Rat

 

Looking the sssit Frank!

Awesome work!

HC.

 

BTW, did you pain your previous Crank?

Did you notice any wear, flaked off paint on the crank?

Thanks.

 

Hey Rat. I was just looking at your painted shaft. Not normal practice to do that. Due to oil splash with a reciprocating item, it can sometimes make the paint flake off. Thus getting into the pump strainer and then into the engine oil galleries.

Have you done this in the past ?

 

The pan fit OK over that front cap and studs?

 

AFL, I am fitting a windage tray and crank scraper to the pan and have PROPERLY prepped the crank for paint. I've never ever had paint come off - ever. Had to hot tank the block 3x in a proper hot tank with decent solution to get it off after it had been painted/run/driven for 4 years !!. The paint really sticks nice - but the key is in the prep, so far, so good. The paint will help throw off the oil FAST and the tray will keep it off the crank.

296, if you look carefully at the front cap, it is radiused where it might interfere with the front cap. It might need a little more massaging it may not, we'll see. Been done many times before.

Cheers,

Rat

 

Frank,

I had to belt my pan a little to get it over the front mains cap, not a lot mind you, but some, and that had radius'd front corners. So don't be surprised if it needs a little massaging. A ball peen hammer and 10 minutes of careful tapping should do the trick.

found this picture as an fyi

 

Very nice FO....I'll trial fit it all after I fit the windage tray.

A little heat and persuasive hammer action should do the job haha. Where was your cap touching the pan?

Or maybe I will slice and dice the pan and fire up the Tig for a little more volume and extend the oil pick up tube.

We will see....

Thanx for the heads up !

Rat

 

Looking Killa.... Can't wait to feel the power of this new creation, it's been too long off the road.

 

Update....

The Edelbrock deep chambered heads are on and all looks good.

Valve to piston clearance checked out OK esp considering the deep, CNCd chambers. after re checking the valve lash I removed the valvetrain and re lubed the cam as the lube was wiped off during the lash setting process and left it at TDC. Re installed the valvetrain and buttoned it up.Timing cover, oil seal and dist fitted as well.

The oil pump is primed and the pickup bolted up and am looking to finish fabbing the windage tray for some better oil control before a final check of the bottom end and the pan is bolted on for keeps.

A few pix....

Rat

 

Looking good......Chopped 2010, one month to go...... will it be there?

 

Dunno.....

Dont wanna rush it....if I don't make it then so be it, summer is coming !

Rat

 

Now Rat . . . I'm keeping a good ole' Yankee eye on you. Seems you may have had a few too many VB oilcans down your neck - because if you manage to get those valves anywhere even close to your pistons, you're in serious trouble

I've tried really hard to make my valves hit the pistons . . . was never able to pull it off!

 

I have not ever seen anyone paint a crankshaft before. If one little chip were to come off it could destroy the engine, I would have sanded it smooth. I have seen the inside of the block painted with a high temp paint for Electric motors.