I have looked and can't find the answer . I have a Lincoln 110v I got for my sheet metal work and because I couldn't afford a 220v at the time . I am using flux core . I want to get the gas conversion so I can get rid of the flux core . My question is , will the welds be better (cleaner) and will all that damn splatter mess be gone ? The flux works OK but what a damn mess and have to keep cleaning with the wire brush all the time sucks . Any tips or help with this question will be very helpful ! I just want to know before I spend another $140 for the gas conversion . Retro Jim
Yes the welds will be clean and there won't be as much splatter. Also you won't burn through as easy as the gas shield cools the weld more.
the spatter will be a lot better, but not gone, especially w/ the 110 machine. I'd recommend buying a nice old-style ground clamp, too. a good solid ground will reduce spatter and make your starts skip-free. you can get them cheap at horrible fright. also, don't plug your welder into an extension cord or you'll be losing voltage and will be putting down cold welds if you follow the chart that came with the welder. unless you do a lot of welding outside, the gas shielding setup will be well worth your money. for sheet metal, start out with .023 ER70S2 wire and 75/25 argon/co2. the S2 wire is NOT your bog standard mig wire, it's the standard steel tig filler formula. you'll have a bit easier time hammering and grinding your welds. for heavier stuff, get a roll of the standard .030 ER70S6. it will weld better through rust, dirt, oil, mill scale, ect.
If your used to using flux core it probaby doesnt matter a whole lot. I use only NR 211 Lincoln (030 ,not 035)flux wire. It is so clean on a quick brush with a hand wire brush is needed to clean the area.
It'll be an improvement, but it sounds like you are becoming knowledgeable about welding and i think you are getting ready to throw good money after bad. There is only one way to get clean welds, even the very best mig mahines are dirty - the nature of the beast. Start looking for a good used industrial quality tig machine.
RJ, if your gonna stick with MIG for panel work, and you upgrade to gas or a new rig w/gas, consider a small roll of ESAB EZ GRIND wire. Doesn't replace TIG or O/A, just makes life a little easier. Again, no miracle, just a little better than standard .023/.025. You be your own judge. Welding is all about what works for YOU, and how much money the wife lets you spend.
that's also a good idea, but I'd still stick a shielding kit and a ground clamp on that mig first. even if you have a really nice new TIG unit that will weld anything, having a good solid mig setup for tacking and burning something in real quick is priceless. and moreso if you wind up with a non-hf scratch-start no-footpedal 900lb industrial tig welder. will it make nice pretty welds? damn straight, but you aren't doing them quickly and you're moving whatever you have to weld to the welder, not the other way 'round. I'd also have to disagree on the 'clean welds' big about mig, though, unless you're just talking spatter. you can weld panels together and get an equal product with mig as tig, but mig is messier, requires more grinding, and is more prone to including crap and gasses in the weld. it doesn't mean it WILL, but it does want to. but, then again... most of that is surface prep. everyone knows tig hates dirty metal, but that chewing gum welder will those rusty pieces o crap together no problem.... OJ didn't mention just how much more fun tig welding is, though
All I do is MIG and I have a 110 Hobart machine. I switched to gas a few years back and it was a night and day difference for me. Much cleaner, much nicer welds. Its worth the money. Shop around for the conversion kit. I found mine on Ebay for $50.
I'm in 100% agreement on the shielded gas and a real good ground clamp AMEN, I also like to use a Little anti-splatter on my gun's tip, saves a little clean up time and tip/nozzle life doing a lot of panel work. Not a must have, just a little extra to make the day go a little smoother. I brush on my anti-splatter with a small acid brush rather than spraying on.
I was told CO2 on a mig will result in a hotter weld as almig gas and others will cause a cooler weld... but to be truthful this is not from experience as i dont have much...just what the supplier told me.
Nick, you couldn't be offering better advice if you tried, a long time 30 year Miller man, am retired now and I run a Hobart Ironman 210. First thing I did was upgrade the gun to a M-25 Miller, I am the FIRST to suggest checking your LWS, but my local welding supply wanted $340, I said cant you do better than that for me...OK $297 plus tax. E-bay $125 to my door, new in the original box.
weldwarehouse.com has almost wholesale prices on stuff, but their website SUCKS. if you know exactly what you want and don't mid digging for it, you can get it cheap there. I haven't tried calling them, though. it's the wholesale branch of a local welding supply somewhere in indiana or illinois, one of those I states...
Thanks for all the great advise ! I like my Lincoln and can get the gas set up for $140 . That was the cheapest I have found so far . I will try the ESAB EZ wire but don't know where to get it . I guess on line someplace . I do use the can of cleaner and dip it quite often and seems to work a little better . As for the ground clamp , mine came with a spring clamp that is a strong as some of the plastic clamps I use . I will assume the clamp you all are telling me about is a screw down style like a "C" clamp , if not what clamp should I get ? I am going to invest in the gas set up this weekend I hope and will try some thinner wire also . I only have 2 small spools through my Lincoln so I have a lot more practicing to do ! It's kinda fun to weld too ! I also have an old 220v NAPA MIG gas welder that does work . Got it for $45 with tank . Kinda rusty outside but does work . I only have 110v in my garage right now but need to save some money to pay someone to hook a 220v up . I also have a nice 225 Lincoln stick welder too . Retro Jim Retro Jim
Jim, my LWS, local welding supply is where I get my EZ grind. I think most Praxair places can get it, and I think even evil-bay might have some. I hate pushing horrible frieght, but I have purchased and used through my big old AC-DC Miller stick, thier 400 amp brass ground clamp part # 66708, list price is all of $9.99 usually on sale for $6.99. I actually like that old style brass clamp better than the new style ones. Good luck, you got lots of great advice here on the HAMB.
Extension cord...well how the fuck else are you supposed to get the machine around the car? A cord is OK as long as it isn't the lil 14 or 16 gage orange one the lil woman uses for her garden tools. Get a good size wire like 10 or 12 and make a good cord. Unless you have a 00 wire going to the 110 outlet, please explain the difference...
Lots of good advice here, one more point. If you do use the extension cord like most of us will as it's not very practical not to, your small 110 volt mig will perform better if it's plugged into a circuit that's running on a 20 amp breaker.
WELDING SUPPLIES ARE MUCH CHEAPER FROM 1800-USAWELD .030 wire 30lb spool delivered is $45 others are $68 for the same, Buy where you want but $20 is a BIG savings, this includes shipping.
well, I was sort of assuming that someone with a 110v mig welder doesn't have a giant pole building or a massive garage, and as the garage is wired to code, there should be enough outlets in a 2 car garage to find a convenient one and plug that 8ft cord into the wall plus 12 or 15 feet of welding leads that you can get to where you need to get to. this reason to not use the extension cord, even if its 8 gauge, is that unless you're plugging it into the breaker, you're adding the resistance of the extension cord to the resistance of the wire in the wall which will further increase your voltage drop. another reason to skip the extension cord is that in most cases, you have more extension cord than what you really need. what that means on a transformer machine is less voltage output. an inverter compensates for line voltage, but less voltage at the input means less power output. at the end of the day, you do what you need to do, but if you have the option or are having issues, plug it into the wall.
As far as the ground clamp goes, just clamp a pair of vise grips to bare metal as nearby the area you are welding as possible, then attach the spring clamp on your ground cable to the vise grip......... James
Clean your parent metal just as you would for tig. Mig doesn't like dirt rust and grease either nor do stick or gas. If you have spatter sticking problems, your welder is not adjusted right or your technique is off. Mig spatter should wipe off with your glove like a bunch of little ball bearings.
I use fluxcore wire and gas ,Double shielding ,It works the best for me ,Im just a novice ,But my sheetmetal patches hold ,Im better at stick.....
Thanks for the help and advise . As for extension cords , well the instructions told me what I have to have but my garage is 24' x 24' and I wired it myself . I have more places to plug something into than I will ever need . I have them every 6' to 8' so I will NEVER be short on anything to plug in ! In the other garage I do some welding in is a whole lot bigger but he also has plenty of places to plug into so I am good there too . I am going to get a gas set for the Lincoln . The cheapest I have found is on that damn on line auction but can get a new set up for $140 to the door . I am going to try some ESAB EZ GRIND and see how that works . I do have an older NAPA 220v set up with gages and bottle for $40 about a month ago . Doesn't look pretty with surface rust from being in a dirt floor garage but I tried it and it did work . Got an extra plastic air line and tips with the deal . I will need to hook up 220v in my garage to use it . Anyone ever use one of these NAPA welders ? I guess I could save my money for the Lincoln gas set up and clean this one up to use . Any suggestions or comments on the NAPA welder and if I should just save my money on the Lincoln gas set up and just use the NAPA welder ? Like I said before , I am on disability and money is very tight so I have to really use what I can without buying a fancy new welder that basically does the same thing . I would rather put that money into my car but trying to do the best I can with what I can afford for now . If I do get another welder , I will either get a Hobart or the Eastwood welders they have now . Retro Jim
If you are looking for some good ideas for welding sheet metal once you get set up with gas, look at Paul's thread called I believe the the '27 saga here on the H.A.M.B. He isn't necessarily doing a welding seminar, but you can see his technique as he goes through the sheet metal he is working with. It's good looking stuff, and the technique I have used for many years.
I used to have a 220v napa welder worked great on sheet metal. I redid my floors and a few patch panels with it. its really not much more of a welder then a lincon 110v machine
I got it cheap and tried it out at the place I got it and it worked fine . It's old but was looking for something that I can weld frames with when necessary . I have a 220v Lincoln 225 stick welder and I think I will just keep that for the heavy stuff and get my gas set up for my Lincoln 110v . I really like my Lincoln 110v welder but I think the gas conversion will be a much better weld . Only $140 . Nothing wrong with flux as it's been around forever . I weld sheet metal in cars a friend gets to fix all the rust . Have been doing old Mustangs lately and I have my 55 Ford I am welding now then a 49 & 50 Fords to do next . For the money I have in that NAPA welder , the bottle is worth the price I paid for the welder . The bottle is owned and not rented and it's the big one . I am sure someone would buy the working old napa 220v MIG welder to start with . Has extra parts with it also . It does stitch welds also . Retro Jim
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