Last night I was working on my cowl an uncovered a few pinholes right on the lower bead seam of the front quarter. The metal to either side is good, but I'm afraid if I weld it (gas or mig, I have no tig) I'll either break through or cause warpage. I thought about using a heat sink behind the panel, but I dont think that would work due to the shape. I cringe at the thought of using body filler to plug any hole, and I'd rather have something a little more permanent. What would you guys suggest?
Weld it. If you don't feel comfortable, have a body shop to it, I don't think it would cost that much. If you absolutely can't weld it, the next best option would be door skin adhesive, but it's pricey.....and non-traditional, haha.
I'd get my little spot blaster out and clean it up both inside and out. then I'd weld it up from the inside if possible. if blasting made it bigger than what I want, I'd cut a little piece to fit and put in a patch. as for taking it to a "body shop".... I'd rather take it to a HOT RODDER with a welder and some skills... it is not that big of a repair. just because a guy has a sign out front and a business does not mean they know how to repair something like that. EDIT: copper backup is for sissies
Maybe a little off topic, but what if you can't get to the backside? Any options besides removing the panel so you can work it? Larry T
After cleaning up or neutralizing the rust, I've used JB Weld in situations like this. It was a temp repair until my welding skills improved but it's been over six years now (with the truck outside most of that time) and there is no sign of new rust, bubbling or leaks.
this is just my 2 cents..Im also going to be dealing with some of these small holes.. What i have found.the second you hit that hole with your Mig..its going to blow out to about 3x that size or more..i dont care what you back it up with chap stick or a penny....but if you do have it backed up..you will eventually get it filled, if the rest of the panel aint rotten thats all i got for you at this moment..i havent found what im going to do yet with a few of my own
I can get to the back of it. I've had some success welding a stress crack on the upper bead, but in that case it was a perfect fit so the heat transfer was even. Maybe I'll clamp a br*** bar over the front and then try to get some rod to it before it gets too much heat into it. I was thinking it might be a good application for a metalic based seam sealer or something. I'll give it a go and post a photo of the carnage afterwords.
Oh for Christ's sakes....use your head. That's like saying a guy with a cabinet shop doesn't know how to cut a piece of ****ing wood.
It's worth a try. VonRigg is right though, if that general area is really thin, you'll have trouble blowing through. Then you'd be better off cutting out the thin area, making a patch to fit it, etc.
""Maybe I'll clamp a br*** bar over the front and then try to get some rod to it before it gets too much heat into it. I was thinking it might be a good application for a metalic based seam sealer or something."" that's a really simple repair to weld up. I wouldn't even be concerned with heat. wouldn't even think about repairing it with anything but welding. the only thing to think about is how thin the metal is around the holes... might need a little patch instaed of just welding the holes.
Right, I can fix it if I mess it up..so I might as well learn something. I'm just trying to preserve the bead lines to the extent I can. I dont have a roller, and I **** at making them freehand. Thanks a bunch guys Chris
I did use my head. a sign and a business license doesn't mean you have any skill or pride in your work. take that into 50 body shops for repair and 45 of them would bondo it up and call it a day. that's not a repair. as for your cabinet shop reference... there is a big difference between cutting a piece of ****ing wood and building a cabinet.
Depending on the metal around it and how much work you want to do? You could cut it out make a patch , weld it in or smitz it in as is with a fibergl*** filler. If it was in my shop I'd ask the customer what way he wants to go, gonna be a price difference between the two.
Gotta love the drama that some idiots bring to these threads It looks like the panel is pretty thin. The good metal around the holes is likely to be thin too. I'd be inclined to replace a small panel to fix that.
The rust you can see is only a small indication of the extent of rust that's actually there. If you successfully weld up the pinholes, you'll get to do the repair AGAIN in about two years.
try to keep the heat down,, thats the biggest issue in my opinion.. back it up with a "Heat sink" ..copper billet, aluminum billet..something like that..to absorb the heat and spread it out..(not left behind as part of the repair, just held there to dissapate the heat) also maybe some rags and water to wipe every now and than.. keep an eye on the quality and thickness of what you have left..and if it startss to blow out like crazy to the point you cant fill the hole you are creating, than its time for some new steel patches.. small very small holes can be soldered too..give that a shot im not a body man..(well not a car body man) but i play one on a Hot Rod Forum
Sorry but I use the original metal repair.....solder it. It is a pinhole afterall....any good solder will do a permanent repair if cleaned and prepped properly. Where did you think the term "leadsled" came from?
Just so you know, a low bead like that can be made in a small patch by clamping the metal in a vise, bending 90 degrees by hand then straightening it back out. Sounds wonky but play with it, it works well. Once you weld it in you can finesse it with a hammer and dolly. I make step flanges in access covers this way.
I use a mig turn down low and a piece of copper tubing I got at the home store . I am cheap and make my own tools when I can ! I split and hammered it flat to use as a backing and just welded the small holes . The copper won't stick/weld to the steel ! Comes out nice and flat too . You can also use some lead but don't heat the panel to much . Either way will work but my vote is MIG with copper backing ! Retro Jim
Yup, shrunk like a peeter in cold water. Tinmann was right, the metal is much thinner than I thought. I ran a file edge down the seam after I took this photo and broke through a little in another spot too. So, I've decided to just pull the pannel and fix the whole damn thing. On a side note, I think Henry went overboard on the spot welds.
too thin for gas, too big of gap for solder. Need to address the edges so that the crack doesn't go further and then cut out the thin stuff and replace with thick. And just to be up front with everyone, I dont know what I'm talking about and don't have any skill, haaaaa hhahahaaahhahahahahahhaa
I've tried this method with great success. While having a piece of br***/copper as a backer to **** up heat turn your welder down to it's lowest setting. Make a series of bird **** welds on or near the pinholes. After this let cool then crank your heat up using the built up weld as your starting point blending it into the original panel. You'll have to dress the inside corner of the bead with a die grinder but it's filled back in with metal without warpage or panel replacement.
This works....done it Sand/clean back side real good...tape the outside...and put the JB on the back. The rear fender on my dads 40 has a bunch of pin holes all over it. I did it like this and its been good now for ten years. But yours? Id make a small patch.
I was gas welding. 0-tip and a soft flame...just too thin. thanks again everyone for the comments and suggestions. I'm am just going to cut out everything thin and patch it. Had I known it was that thin on the edges (and I probably should have known) I would have pulled the panel to begin with. The other front quarter has no holes, but after looking at this one I may need to pull it too just to be sure. learn something every day.
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