I'm thinking of a T56 swap, in my Stude. I'm presently running a sbc with one piece seal lightened flywheel and a T5 trans. My main question is will that flywheel work with a 97 T56, LT1 style, or do I need to use the LT1 flywheel? My other questions are is there any wiring required with this hookup, I've seen in other posts,things about reverse lock out, and some other stuff. I'm hoping maybe that was all LS1 stuff. And finally, I see I need an elect speedo for the T56, luckily I'm already running a VDO Vision which is elect, my question here is does anyone know what speed sensor unit is needed for the T56 and the VDO speedo? I don't know if the T5 unit will work, but I doubt it, and I can't find that info on retail sites, the only info seems to be for auto trans. I appreciate any help, thanks John
I have a Tremec T56 (after market version) that is probably similar if not the same. I'm just getting it ready to go for my build also, but from what I've read, you can use the CAGS by-pass or make one yourself, and you will just have to rig something for the reverse lock-out. Or you could just jam it in reverse if you can get enough leverage! I'm probably going to do that until I have figured out a cheap solution for the reverse lock-out. The CAGS by-pass is a simple little deal that just plugs into the two spade terminal on the side of the trans. $15 or so, I think. Not sure on your clutch arrangement... My T56 is a mechanical speedo, but the T5 stuff was directly interchangeable. So maybe it's the same for yours. Unless of course you mean you HAVE a mechanical drive output and you need the electric sender to drive your electric speed... Good topic!
You have a couple of options. You can use the whole clutch setup from the LT1. It is an unusual hydraulic pull-clutch design, and is quite expensive. IF you don't already have it. Or you can use the adapter from McLeod (and others) that makes the front of the T56 "look" like a conventional 4/5 speed, so it fits the regular GM bell housing. This would allow you to use a much cheaper conventional clutch set. This can be set up with a mechanical linkage, cable, internal or external hydraulic pedal setup. This requires that you use an LS1 sourced T56, or a LT1 sourced T56 with an LS1 input shaft, and an extended pilot bushing, in both cases. The LT1 and LS1 input shafts are interchangeable, EXCEPT for the very first year of the LT1 (1993) T56. Those have a different gear tooth count. This is the setup I run in my A, which has a 1-piece seal SBC, and a 153-tooth flywheel. I have not had the pull-clutch and regular clutch flywheels next to each other to verify that the pressure plates will swap. I believe that the OEM speed sensor can be used to drive the VDO speedometer. As for the reverse lockout, and the skip shift, I drill remove them and tap the holes for pipe threads, and plug them. You may need to "shorten" the plug so it does not hit any part of the shifter stuff. Others have drilled and fit core plugs. The aforementioned aftermarket Tremec T56 comes with the adapter plate to put it on the "regular" GM bell housing, and a longer input shaft than the LS1, so there is no need for an extended pilot bushing. In the case of the McLeod adapter and the aftermarket T56, the adapter plate has a T5 bearing retainer on the plate, so it "looks" like a T5 inside the bell housing. Your throwout bearing, hydraulic or otherwise, and associated components will need to be of the T5 variety.
^^^YEP! That is true! What I have also. ^^^ Some of the adapter plates come with the angle T5 pattern as well. You will probably want the plate that has the "straight up" pattern, depending on your situation. Gimply, for your reverse solenoid you removed and plugged up, are you using anything to help you into reverse gear, or are you just slamming it through the gate?
Help? I just put it in there. That solenoid is the reverse lockout. Over a certain speed, the Engine Control Module, in the original application, disallows shifting into reverse. It is there because some people are not so smart, and have lawyers.
Gotcha... I should have said that differently. I can put it in reverse on mine also with the solenoid unhooked by simply jamming it in there. With the solenoid removed, does it simply slide right into reverse, or is the same effort required as I experience now?
Scooter It's a previous thread of yours which made me realize there were electrices involved, which started this thread. How much force are you talking about to get into reverse? I'm familiar with manuals, and force is something I try to avoid when shifting.I want it all to slide nicely.
Gimpy Thanks for this info, very straight forward sounding, I like that. The reverse lock out, is that the piece on drivers side at shifter? Regarding ease of shifting into reverse at speed, is this easily done? I've driven saginaws, muncies, T5s and many pickups with grannie lows,double axle dump trucks,and never managed to shift into reverse at speed. The grinding sounds are a bit of a heads up. Does the the T56 just slip into reverse so easily at speed?? Or is it just the same as all the above basically, and GM figured people were dummer? Without the reverse lockout hooked up,how difficult to get reverse when you want it? One hand? By the way whats the sender on the pass. side for, backup lights maybe? Thanks john
I just wire the reverse lockout solenoid through a mechanical brake light switch on the clutch pedal tapped into the brake light circuit. That way, you can easily shift into reverse as long as you have both the clutch and brake pedals down.
Now THAT is interesting! I hadn't thought of doing it that way. I like that A LOT! I am actually running a pressure switch on my clutch to prevent starting in gear, and there will be one on the brake, obviously, as well. So this solution would work. And you really SHOULD be completely stopped before you shift into R anyway... No toggle needed! Ummm... A fair amount. 15 pounds, maybe?? Not really sure how to gauge it. With a quick "SMACK" over to the right, it will go through the gate. I think this is done for the event that there would be an electrical issue and/or the solenoid fails. It's sort of a pain...
I hope this link works, I'm not too good with attching stuff. It might be of interest to someone else, was to me. http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission/gm_t56_installation_overview.html
With the reverse lockout removed, it just goes right into reverse, just like any other transmission. The lockout is to the left of the shifter boss in the tail housing. The connection on the right side is for the backup lights. The connection on the left next to the inspection cover is the skip-shift solenoid. You don't need that one either. It was there for fuel mileage purposes, to get the EPA sticker numbers up. I have never tried to shift into reverse at speed, so I don't know, but I am sure that some joker has. These "inventions" are usually there for a reason.
Okay... Stupid question time. I may have been thinking about this CAGS Skip Shift thing wrong. Looking at this link, (http://www.fastz.com/z06/CAGS.html) it appears that the little resister assembly they're selling is for the existing wire harness that comes from the computer in the car shown and the other side (transmission side) actually just gets a weather-tight plug jammed in there. Is it as simple as just not hooking anything to the recepticle on the transmission?? If there's no computer than there is nothing to tell it to actually "skip shift" right? So nothing to do here except plug it up, right?? Sorry... Just trying to get this straightened out in my mind.
I could be wrong, but the cags thing seems to be more for tricking the computer and idiot lights than actually doing anything to the trans that just disconnecting wouldn't accomplish?
The CAGS Skip Shift solenoid, in conjunction with the ECM pushes the shifter to the side when you are shifting out of First gear, so it ends up in Fourth gear, skipping Second and Third. It is a MPG cheat. The CAGS Skip Shift Eliminator is to trick the ECM into thinking that the solenoid is there, connected and functional, when it is disconnected. Otherwise you'd get a Check Engine light. Disconnecting it and leaving it is fine. I like to remove them to get back a little space in the trans tunnel, and I am finicky about extra stuff that does nothing. On my own A, not only did I remove it, but I removed the whole shifter boss, welded up the holes and ground it smooth, for clearance, the shifter having moved to the inspection plate using the Keisler kit. If it is not in the way, you can leave it in there.
Hmmm... Maybe I'm confused about what the solenoid is on the left side of the shifter, that sits externally and points forward. I thought this was the reverse lock-out solenoid. Is this the CAGS Skip Shift solenoid? Please post some pictures of the mods you did, if you could. I think we would all benefit if you have some.
I would recommend using the reverse lockout. These transmissions can go into reverse at high speed during a mis-shift. OK, OK..... you don't NEED a reverse lockout, but it sure is a nice saftey feature!!! I put a T56 in my non-HAMB friendly daily driver and used a Corvette T-Handle shifter to actuate the reverse lock out. Basically, I used the Corvette mechanical linkage to actuate an electrical switch which triggers the solenoid. I have been running this set up for years with zero problems. I have also seen several people run a small push button switch on the shift knob to actuate the reverse lock out......like you might see for nitrous. Also, I do not run the skip shift .get rid of that garbage. I do run the neutral safety switch, but that is not part of the transmission. I wired a switch on my clutch pedal to interrupt my ignition when the clutch is not pressed. T56s are great transmissions. Mike
Thanks for catching that. It is indeed that, sorry. My previous post was pre-coffee. I don't make much sense before coffee, and only just slightly more after. My brain is all turned around because my shifter is now in the inspection plate location. I will dig up the pictures. They are on film, somewhere, so give me a chance to get the scanner working. Resources: Shifter Relocation kit: http://www.keislerauto.com/gm/gm-ba...nt-shift-conversion-kit/shop.flypage_acc.html Input shafts, adapters, pilot bushings, etc: http://www.thegearbox.org/T56.html Reverse light switch pigtail: http://www.bestvalueautoparts.com/item.wws?sku=PT2348&itempk=962931&mfr=ACDELCO US&weight=1 Input shaft bearing cup: M88010 - Can be had at NAPA, shows as a pinion bearing cup. Input shaft bearing cone: M88048 - Can be had at NAPA, shows as a pinion bearing cone.
Fwew... thought I was loosing it! Thanks for clarifying. I'm just going to look for a plug for the receptacle and I have room for the reverse lock-out solenoid, so I think I'll retain its function and wire something up. Thinking the clutch and brake switches combined might work well, but that will probably mean two-footing it for starting the car. My pedals are close enough to pull it off though...
One of my buddies uses a shift knob with a nitrous button for the reverse lockout. http://performanceparts.com/part.php?partID=179096
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