Does any body know what sizes are for acrylic Enamel and laquer The chart is only for new stuff and doesnt tell alot. Hvlp
Hope this helps. Since the Lacquers and A/enamels are thinner then todays c/coats I find a 1.0 or 1.2 fluid tip works well and gives you good atomization. I also set my trigger full open so I can control the amount of fluid coming out as I'm working. Alot of times I'll work 1/2 trigger to get the atomization I want. This works for me with a Devillbiss GTI Plus. The Old Tinbasher
Hey, I don't shoot acrylic enamel, especially if it's a heavy metalic and clear colour, with an HVLP gun. Even the 1.5 tip on a good gun doesn't give me the same control I need to lay down a good flow that's so important in an acrylic enamel job. The solid colours can, if necessary, be cut and buffed, but a metalic colour, unless extra clear has been added to the final coat/s can be trouble. A metalic colour can take some work to get a uniform pattern of the aluminum flake if it's a 70's oem type of finish. You can find good, cheap old siphon cup guns around today. Yeah, they,re alittle messy for ''today's painter'', but tough to beat for an acrylic enamel job. My Binks #7 has been rebuilt 5-6 times since 1973 and works as good as it did then. " I like the old millenium better ''
With a solid color, I've found that my Finishline (HVLP)primer gun lays the enamel out better than my Sata HVLP! 2.0 tip....enamel is so much thicker than lacquers or modern basecoats. Closer to clear, but a bit more viscous than that, even.
Acrylic Enamel: Binks Model 7--the fluid tip is .072 but using the different air caps increases the volume and pattern size. 36SD cap (standard) 36SG cap (more fliud) 36SK cap (you have to be fast and brave) my favorite.
I use a 1.8 or 2.0 on my HVLP. Lays down a nice wet coat that can flow-out nicely. It's really going to depend on the paint, the temperature & humidity and your own tecnique in the end.
Interesting Thanks Pimpin paint I was wondering why my enamel jobs Mettallics are a little blotchy ,Livable but not a show job ,Then when I paint my truck hood silver mettallic It is perfect ,I do mean the patterns.But thats new paint Urethane ,,,,,Straight colors are no problem I do have a Sharpe production gun Old style .........Just switched to Hlvp a couple years ago and trying to work the bugs out of unanswered questions . I do miss my Binks gun It bit the dust .Anybody know of a cheap affordable primer gun ,I dont want a 15 dollar gun ,Would go up to a hundred for a brand name ,Any recommendations ,That way I can clean my old sharpe that cost 160 and Im using it for a primer gun Lol Sad but true .
Hey John, I've ''hot rodded'' more than one spray gun in my life to make it spray what was required! If you come upon an old siphon type gun, cheap, that has a p***ible/good fluid tip and needle, but the air horn is alittle worn you can take a numbered drill bit index and take up the holes to the next (RCH) sized hole that will clean it up. Remember, all holes must match in size, from side to side. You will have to make adjustments of the fluid knob for best flow of the material being sprayed. The "Chi-Comms" are gettin better and better at copies of preminum spray guns built by the germans and ****- HAMB members Overspray & Scootermccrad were havin an exchange on "affordably priced'' Chi-Comm produced HVLP guns a whyle back, but my remember don't go in reverse to well as to when. Perhaps it was earlier this year? Good luck with your paint work. '' Don't be too quick to drink the Kool-Aid "
I bought my DeVilbiss Finishline HVLP(set up for primer) from smartshoppers.com. Less than 100$. You can also buy additional cap and nozzles to do regular paint, if you're on a budget. Like I said, the gun is even good enough to shoot enamels nicely!
Its kinda strange,i had to take a epa course for my shop in florida,first thing they said was if i had a siphon gun hanging in my shop its a huge fine $$ !!,,i spray centari,and clear coat out of my sata jet all the time,2.0 tip,for me it has to do with the air pressure and fluid setting,mine wide open on fluid,activator speed and reducer/basemaker temp is also a must,,but my dad can lay out a enamel paint job with his binks like gl***,,, oh he even told me back in the day how you old timers used to hot plate the enamel before spraying it,,,crazy,,,,
Hey, Yeah, it's kinda strange.................last week a member of the jack boot warein' S.C.A.Q.M.D. ( local arm of the county smog Nazi office) entered the shop and ordered all of the solvent based enamel ( alkyd & acrylic ) to be removed within thirty days. No more cleaning guns with lacquer thinner, acetone only! He wasn't to crazy 'bout the solvent/thinner log either- I promised to say three "hale Marys'' and improve the bookeeping. It was about that time when he spotted an old siphon cup gun it a locker, " You arn't using those any longer are you?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! -good thing a late model Sharp HVLP gun was sittin on the mixing bench! I didn't ask about the One-Shot enamel, for I fear I already know the answer! The paint business is changing all over, but here in Southern California '' they'' have fired several warning shots over the last decade............****in' commies! I've shot a few ''hot plate'' jobs in years p***ed, and talk about bein' as busy as a one legged man at an *** kickin' contest? You had to move like someone was ch***in ya with a Glock to be able to get the advantage of the flow of the heated material-that's tough to do with a drink in your hand! " The one thing all nations share is the fear that a member of the family will want to be an artist "
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