I have a early small journal 283 crank that I am using to build my 301. The crank does not have threads in the end to pull the harmonic balancer onto the crank. I have not ever installed a balancer onto a crank with out a threaded end. How is the best way to do this? THANKS
yer gonna laugh, but a 2x4 and a big *** hammer, you just pound them on. Just make sure and get it started first, and 100% make sure the keyway is lined up, nothing will piss you off more than knocking the woodruff key into your oilpan. Scot
yeah, and make sure to get it started nice and straight, you don't want to have it gouge the crank or the bore in the balancer.... oh yeah, watch your fingers with that big *** hammer....
On the first couple i built i used a BFH and block of wood..it'll do the job. But i started drilling out the crank and tapping them for the balancer bolt after those. I had one of the 'hubs' come loose on one 283, and after that just thought it was a good idea to use the bolt. It's good insurance as far as keeping the balancer in place, and allow's you to use a balancer installer rather than beating the hell out of the thrust area on the rear main bearing..
That is what I was afraid of. That will not hurt the thrust bearing? The crank is not in the engine yet, could I put the new timing gear on , then slip the timing cover on, then hammer the balancer on while the crank is standing up on the floor? (not in the engine) just to protect the thrust bearing. Then put the crank in the engine?????
when I did it I put the engine (with the flywheel on) on it's *** and went for it... I was a bit worried about the thrust bearing as well. I have heard of drilling and tapping the crank, sounds like good measure if you have the option, I didn't do it and mines going just fine.
I don't think you have to go through all that. I think by using the wood that will absorb alot of the 'shock' from hitting it. I havn't heard of any real problem's with the thrust bearing's after installing a balancer this way..but personally, knowing it's still a bearing i feel better not taking any chances.. but thats just me.. If the cranks not in the engine yet, you could alway's bring it to your local machine shop and have them drill it for you if you have doubt's. I doubt it'll be much to do it. Then you never have to even think about it again.
Most in my kneck of the woods will drill em for around 25 bucks if you have the crank out. Bolt and big thick washer you can get in the performance section on any retail parts chain stores (aka the devil) Scot
beating the damper on will not hurt the thrust bearing. At least I haven't had any problems with them over the past 30 years doing it that way, and the old shop manuals from Chevy say that's how to do it.
You really need to drill and tap it. It really sux if it comes loose and screws up your crank or radiator !!!
A friend of mine had that happen in high school, had about 500 miles on his 327 when the press on dampner came off. It whiped out the snout of the crank when it rattled loose, expensive ****oo on a high school kids budget, but that stuff was allot more available then. Scot
as long as the balancer and the crank that you use are both in good shape you shouldn't have any trouble. Just be carefull to get every thing lined up before you go to hammering on it.
can you just pound the balancer on and then put the crank in the block??, hmmm if you could figure out how to get the timing cover on i think a guy could. just kidding, drill and tap, took me like 15 minutes with the engine on the stand, no guides needed if you drill it straight in, try not to be off center, kinda tough to be off center with the pilot they give you to start, if not comfortable, get a couple buddies too eyeball that drill for ya
If the crank is out drill it, if the engine is out back it up or put the motor on end so it won't move the crank.
I've always used the sledge and wood block method, but now I use a 3" thick piece of 3 1/2" round bar stock. No more wood breaking up, and the dampener going nowhere fast. It works good, and there's a definite tone change once the dampener is seated. Always done it with the crank in the motor. Never had a problem with any of the many motors I've built. I do agree with having the crank snout drilled and tapped, but I think with the pressed on dampeners, there is an interference fit that I personally would'nt trust a bolt to be able to pull it on. Just my experience. Butch/56sedandelivery.
I used a 4"x4" and a BFH ! A 10lb sledge works very good ! Just make sure to tap it lightly on first to make sure it's going on straight . Then beat the **** out of it till you hear it hit bottom . Yep that's good Chevy engineering for you but that is the way it's done ! Have done many that way . One other thing , check the balancer to make sure it's good before you install it . Retro Jim
As long as you have the crank out, take it to a machine shop and have it drilled & tapped. You will never be sorry.
Drill and tap the crank is a good idea. I had 2 283s over the years and niether had a damper, just a flange that knocked on to carry the lower pulley. There's also the hot water trick. Drop that thing in a pot of near boiling water for a few minutes, extract carefully so as not to get burnt, tap it on quckly to the oiled crank snout. Works every time.
and if dont drill and tap it(but please do), every time you hit it with your hammer tap it first to seat the crank back against the thrust bearing so your crank doesn't have that, albeit minute, running start to your bearing. hans
Just get it drilled You cant install before you put crank in ,Timing cover .Nothing wrong with block of wood method ,I personally would drill it.
being that your building a 301, your probably going to zing the hell out of ot right? drill and tap and a good bolt!
I'm in the drill and tap club. Had one come off the crank in the middle of nowhere once and the car was down for quite some time before I could get it fixed.
I'd put the dampner in my powdercoat oven for a while to heat it up a bit first, using "thermal ***istance" always helps the first half of driving it on. As the temperature drops it gets a little tighter but by then you are nice & straight. I learned this temperature thing working around motorcycles and aircraft many years ago.
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