For you painters out there I`d like to know how u can spray house of kolor kandy with out getting the tiger stripes.
buy the vidio from house of color, study it several times, and have alot of confidence, use a very good quality gun, and practice first (before you paint the desired subject), but the vidio will help tyou tons if you have never seen it done before, otherwise get an oldtimer who has experiance to help yopu out
A good gun is first...I use either an Iwata or a Sata....Are you shooting catelized candy urethane or a concentrate in a base clear...I usually do the latter and dont go to wet....And use even, overlapping coats...And after spraying a coat horizontally down the sides, turn the tip on your gun 90 degrees and spray a coat vertically....It will seem awkward but it's necessary with candy....Same with the hood and deck....Put a coat in the opposite direction from the last......Good luck...
I had that trouble years ago and learned from mistake. Ya got ot go side to side then fog in between up and down to stay away from the tiger stripes! Here is one kat that is a master painter. He is on the HAMB here Donnie Baird www.imperialcustomes.com Give him a pm to get a professoinal answer and help from a fellow HAMB'r! KNUX!
Another kool kat on the HAMB here is Har****. He is really good at the kustom paint too. Either him or Donnie will hook ya up in the right direction. Hope that helps ya out alot! KNUX!
if it was easy eveyone would have a killer kandy job..like RRE said you need a decent gun,i guess eveyone has there own way of doin it,but i just fog on the first coat then its like a 75 percnt overlap.You have to watch the material to see where its going.Your not gonna get it right the first time.Go get KOSMONSKIS book,,he explains it in detail..GOOD LUCK
You also need a lot of paint experience! Besides the technical aspects, and tricks, you really HAVE to have great gun control, and discipline. It's not like painting regular paint! There are different ways to make p***es, and you have to be on top of every second of you painting. Precise distance and angle, exactly the same p*** distances and widths. Don't get fooled by the body lines of the car, straight p***es every time, like a robot! Perfect overlaps in your p***es. Perfect speed in each p***. Parts where roofs meet quarters, inside curves around headlights, taillights, are very tricky. Jamming is tricky as well. Small parts aren't too hard, whole cars are I've probably painted 50-60 cars with candy or pearl. It ain't easy...and it IS expensive (priced the paint yet?)
I would emphasize the part about turning the TIP OR NOZZLE of the gun, So many guys try to just tip the gun over sideways and shoot. That is a no-no. One hiccup or the gun not picking up the paint will result in a blotch that cannot be repaired. If you are really good at controlling the gun, you can also add diagonal p***es along with vertical and horizontal, to make the coverage as even as possible.
Old post but has anybody used the House of Kolor Kandy basecoats? I am a novice painter, just my own stuff. Is the Shimrin Kandy basecoats prone to tiger stripeing or does it just spray like regular bases and metallics?
I was just going to suggest that. I haven't painted a whole car with it (painted and engine and trans), but it is easy to spray, much like any other basecoast paint. The look was that of real candy. Also like real candy, it did get darker the more you put on.
I can't really add anything more than what has been said. Pay close attention to the nozzle/gun in relation to the surface being sprayed. 90 degrees for even coverage. Anything past this in either direction will also add to tiger striping. I do recommend practicing with an over thinned base coat like 1:4-1:5 (light paint over dark surface or vice versa). This will help you to see your what your coverage looks like and you can adjust accordingly. Also, prior to painting the candy, or any other custom (read as $$$$ LOL!!!) paint, you should definitely spray a let down panel. This will help you to determine how many coats you will need to shoot to achieve the depth of color you are wanting. Make a panel 6" by 12". Base it with the primer then base color you have on the car. Then, shoot the first coat of paint. Once it has flashed, lay a piece of 2" masking tape squarely across one end of the panel. Now shoot the second coat. Once flashed, lay a second piece of masking tape across the panel ****ed squarely against the first. Repeat this step until you have laid down the 6th coat. Carefully remove all the tape and now lay a couple of pieces of tape lengthwise of the panel, covering half (3") and lay down a good wet coat of clear. Now you can see how the color builds with each coat and choose what you want. Adding the clear allows you to get a good idea of how it looks finished.
HOK candy basecoats are more like a 2 stage paint that matches the colors of their candy line. It doesn't have the depth of finish that real candy has. But it does make for a very nice paint job....Billy painted Joe Siclari's "Pearl Necklace" 57 Ford in KBC (Kandy Base Coat), and it came out very nice..do a search. Being closer to reg. basecoat, it is not as prone to tiger striping, but it "can" happen if you're sloppy in your technique. If you're a pretty good painter, but haven't done real candy, and have experience with factory tri-coat finishes, try putting HOK's real candy over their KBC. Not as easy to tiger-stripe but you start to get a more "candy-like" finish.
One of the MOST important things is you have to keep your metalic base very even, then start slow even coats with tight overlap, get even coverage not too light, and I like to go down the whole side not painting panels.It is a hard process, that you can learn , your first one might not be streek free, but after a few you will get the hang of it. start small paint a few bikes and **** like that then build up to a whole car. And after you master that , then try some spotting in of kandies! thats the fun stuff, but can be done, I fixed g mans car after the hood came open, blended fenders, hood. and grill opening.
Kos,s inst. are fool proof he is the man, his product is the easyest stuff in the world read and do you will be fine if you deveate you will pay .............old guy been there done that
I don't know how far you are from me, but i'm in central missouri if you need some help. Kandy's are pretty tricky and I wouldn't recommend trying it if you haven't painted a lot of cars. Minimum 75% overlap, absolutely precise gun control (no dipping or wiggle), good gun that's clean as a whistle, Clear and wet sand your metalic base, and you HAVE TO WALK the whole car, no panel painting, and you have to paint all panels on the car. Its tricky not for the dabbler, and its a whole heap of work.
Stay away from silver bases for your initial learning. The lighter the base, the more you're going to see any of your striping. Gun control is absolutely critical. Like mentioned above, shoot your metallic base coat first. Clear and wetsand. Then do your kandy. Choose a base that's closer to the final color. Like a blue base for a blue kandy. Cinder red (copper) is a great base for shooting the apple red. There's nothing like kandy paint though. Shoot a mailbox or something else before diving into a car.
tiger stripes= too close to the panel, too narrow p***, too high pressure, too slow hand, or any combination of all of it.
I've sprayed a few bikes and a car or 2 with the KBC Kandy basecoat. If you treat it like a kandy and apply it over a nice base it comes out pretty nice and it's easier to repair than a true kandy. If you over-reduce it you'll see bright silver spots on close inspection and you won't get the look you want. I like chopolds' idea of a lil kandy over the top before clear to deepen the look. You still need to be on your game and the KBC doesn't forgive what good kandy applications require but it does offer a minor relief from the tiger stripes and such if you focus. Back to true kandy, I know a guy from a local body shop who was really good at em. I couldn't see any stripes or excess build anywhere in his kandy coats. The overall finish wasn't what I'd call exceptional but the color was always right on the money. I asked him what he was doing to avoid the stripes. Now what we're talking about here is lacquer in this case, no urethane systems. He said his trick was slow reducer, a wide wet fan walking the car and no jambs. The reducer, he said he'd reduce 250-300% or more for some colors (!) and take his time, sometimes having to go as many as a dozen coats to get the look and depth he wanted. It made good sense to me. The slow reducer took the "spots" out of the spray pattern and allowed some flow time to let each coat and p*** blend with the next. I never got to try this technique but always wanted to with some clear basecoat like SG100 or DBC500. I wonder if it would behave the same, but surely the reduction percentages would have to be adjusted for the urethane. I also find that with the current crop of HVLP and gravity guns that what some of us grey-beards have been used to for decades does not apply. It's a new game for true kandy because of the volume being applied. One hiccup, a cramp, an argument with the ol lady the night before, hell even if you fart too big you're probably going to have a blotch. No matter, if a good kandy is what you have on deck it's time to get "all in" and go for it.
I never got to try this technique but always wanted to with some clear basecoat like SG100 or DBC500. I wonder if it would behave the same, but surely the reduction percentages would have to be adjusted for the urethane. I also find that with the current crop of HVLP and gravity guns that what some of us grey-beards have been used to for decades does not apply. It's a new game for true kandy because of the volume being applied. One hiccup, a cramp, an argument with the ol lady the night before, hell even if you fart too big you're probably going to have a blotch. No matter, if a good kandy is what you have on deck it's time to get "all in" and go for it.[/QUOTE] I once had a big time problem with Kandy Teal blotching up on me. Funny, it looked good in the shop (flourescent lighting), and it looked good in the sun, but it looked terrible outside, when overcast. After trying some test panels (after screwing up the whole car!), I found even with some of the tricks I knew, it still wouldn't lay out right. When I consulted with Jon at HOK, about maybe playing around with either concentrating or reducing the Kandy, he told me that that would lead to even MORE problems, and that the concentration that they made the candy with was optimum...as well as the recommendations for mixing your own. The only time he recommended playing with the concentration was when doing door jambs, to have less build. And there, you probably wouldnt' notice any slight change of color due to blotching. Jon also recommended, if using HVLP, when they first came out, the SATA gun, due to it's superior atomization pattern and quality. I found that it really helped to bump up the pressure a bit, to help get a nice even pattern for the Kandy. I've done quite a few Kandy Urethane jobs and have been pretty successful in having them come out good. No doubt, they are more difficult to do than the lacquer ones, but the urethane is much tougher, and holds up better in the sun.
Good stuff there 'olds. I always enjoy your input. I shoot with an Iwata 400. For years I had issues with the "4 to1" stuff on the last coats. For me, the Iwata solved my problem. 3yrs ago I lacquered a car with the Iwata, nothing kandy or custom, but it had to be right. It was one of my "paint it twice" jobs which I do purposely. I noticed 2 things using our beloved lacquer with that gun. 1st was the volume. I needed more reduction and a different approach to the color coat for the 1st step. It's a fine metallic and I don't care for the look of it when applied for coverage. Just wont "lay down" which I think you can relate to. The 2nd step was to completely level the 1st color coats then apply a very fine and wet mist over everything to get pattern I wanted before the clear. The trick there is, too much you're back where you started before the leveling, not enough it "moves around" in the 1st 2-3 coats of clear. Back in the day, you know the ol "30 coats of hand rubbed.." days, normal show type lacquer clear was about 12-15 at significant reduction. We did 8 and still had more than enough to m***age the finish to the desired look. The other side of the deal was the 2 weeks it took to harden enough to surface out. I concluded that the volume of the HVLP piled on the clear with each coat much heavier than I 1st anticipated. In the end it all worked out well but I had to adjust my game accordingly. For my own personal stuff, I still have most all of my old MBCs and intend to go "back home" when I kandy the truck...in lacquer! Sounds like I'm in to self abuse, I know, but I want what I want. I hear ya on the pressure thing. At normal application settings I notice that the colors tend to look like they're going on with little "circles" in the pattern. Stepping it up reduces that look. I see it in metallics as well. Again, good stuff bro.
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