You can vacuum metalize many materials including plastic, metal, gl***, fibergl***, and more. Considering this for a grill on my 54 3100. I plan to use some filler on the grill and want to chrome it. Found this process pretty interesting. Anyone use it?
I used to work at a plastic injection moulding factory and ran the vacuum metalizer. We chrome plated plastic dash panels,arm rests,etc. That was back in the 60's. They coated the parts with a clear varnish to protect the chrome. I remember doing the dash inserts for the '64 GTO.
There are several companies doing this, as well as vapor deposition. There is another process which for some reason I'm drawing a blank this moment on what it is called, but it is basically what they do all of the faux finishes inside cars with. It's come a long way, and I saw several companies displying their wares at the National Business Aircraft ***ociations show last December. One company that comes to mind who does this really well is Amamo Plating. I have info on several others as well, but Alamo comes to mind this second...
We have a local guy in town that started a vacuum coating process where you have a vat of water and you lay the plastic film on top of the water then you dip the part in it and it forms to the part. The plastic film is thinner than saran wrap! When its done then a clear automotive coat is applied. If you want a carbon fiber look or wood grain so on and so on. This guy claims that a chrome film will be coming out soon, curious to see how thats going to look! When we were at the Back to the 50's show in St. Paul in June there was a vendor set up with parts he had done on display, very impressive! He said he has been doing a lot of wood grain pieces for guys restoring woody wagons, the finished product looks like real wood!
The problem you will run into with VM and most other similar processes is durability. One rock and that chrome finish is shot. It does not hold up well. You can powder coat the grill with chrome powder, which looks pretty dang good. "But what about the body filler? powder coating won't work" you say? You need to use Lab Metal which is an aluminum-filled epoxy specially designed for this type of work. It air cures and withstands over 400 degrees plus it will hold the electrical charge. Powder coating will hold up much better. If you have any questions, I can help. I powder coat all metals and have even powder coated wood. You would be surprised what can be powder coated.
High Plains Drifter describes the process whose name I can't remember, its a salien solution, not pure water though. The finishes, and variety of finishes you can get with that are amazing.
One name for it is "Hydro Graphics". Juliano's does it, and there are numerous other places once you start Googling. Hunters love it to camouflage everything. That's how my dash was done:
That dash looks awesome. That stuff is great for interior and low-risk pieces. I looked into it a few years ago for some exterior pieces, but it just isn't durable against the elements and highway speeds. You can some cool looking stuff with it though.
Can that chrome film be used for 2.00" diameter model car wheels??? The wheels are made out of styrene plastic.....
I'm sure that this process most likely has been discussed, but I'll post it just the same. I, like most, saw this in one of the street rod rags. http://www.sprayonchrome.com/ I believe it was under Spectra Chrome, LLC. Anyone out there that can speak to it based on actual experience with the company or its' product? They claim in their adverti*****ts that a screwdriver can't scratch or peel the finish off, and it that's not errant, that would make it pretty darn durable and exterior friendly.
I have used it. It works quite well, its a serious process though. It can be scratched but it takes some effort. the company (Alsa Corp) makes Alsa Chrome which is typicaly paint process. it looks almost as good with 98% of the reflectivity of chrome. I still have some in the shop.
Like I said, the company that manufactures the film "might" be coming out with a chrome film, its still in the works, I think there having issues with the clear going over the finished product, basically it would be like clearing a brand new chrome bumper you might get some hazing and dull spots, however the local guy thats doing it has buffed the finished pieces because it's just automotive clear being used over it. Frankie47, I would hold off and maybe see if you can find someone closer to you that's doing it and has had some experience under their belt with this process, I've seen some finished product come out of this guys shop and I'm not very impressed at all, I think he needs to work out the bugs on this procedure. He's only been doing it for like 4 or 5 months now? I agree with 71buickfreak on the durability, A friend of mine sent some interior pieces to a shop in the Minneapolis area a few years back for his Denali and the pieces that had been done get touched and grabbed all the time are showing wear already! Your right 4woody! I think the process is called "Hydro Graphics"! That dash looks awesome!
Thanks, I was more interested in the interior pieces....but to me, they need to be durable too, dashes get a lot of "handling" don't they.
I think this guy has what you are looking for. Vacuum metalize is just not durable enough, which is why car manufacturers don't use it on exterior pieces. They would if they could get away with it. Real electroplating of high quality would give the best shine and durability, but would likely cost much more, especially since it currently needs filler. Whatever you decide, I think we would all like to see pics before and after.
A friend of mine owned a company in Florida(ALD inc in Rockledge))that made vacuum metallizing machines of his own design.They mostly did aerospace work and eventually branched off into hard face overlays and nanocoatings for machinery. Durability was always a problem with aluminum vapor deposition(I think that's the tech name for it)and I believe they eventually found a coating that worked well but the cost was too prohibitive to be commercially viable.
As far filler goes, you need a LabMetal for powder coating filler. it works great. Just sayin'. You could probably get it rechromed for about $200.
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