I am in the process of making a tunnel ram for my slant six. I need to prefab the runner ***embly so i can weld it to the plenum as an asembly. I designed some 1/4 inch alum plates to weld the individual runners to then that plate (or a pair of them (3 and 3) will be welded to the Plenum as there is no room to weld each runner individually. I made a pattern and cut the outside shape on my table saw with the regular wood blade. I drew the inside hole on with a marker and drilled a series of holes planning to use a jig saw to cut them out. Then i thought I wonder if a spin saw bit will cut aluminum like it does wood. Today I tried it. It does. It actually works very well. My off brand dremel i was using as i dont have a real spin saw was not gripping the bit well with its worn out collet but still I was able to make the nsede cuts easily although the biit kept coming loose . Tomorrow i will remedy that inconvenience and finish the job. I was even able to true up the edge a bit with it. I have several friends in Germany and one in particular taught me to cut aluminum with wood saws. Turns out the spin saw also works. Maybe pic tomorrow. Don
Did you happen to take photos of the process? On your table saw, did you use a plywood blade for the cuts? I ask as I'll end up being required to make an intake manifold for a banger with an Eaton M90 and efi. I've only cut aluminum once previously and if I remember the saw had a plywood blade. I remember it as a mess to clean up, but it cut well. Nothing like a "sheet metal" intake. What are you putting the "lazy six" in? Other than the lack of inches, that's a good motor. A high school friend had one in 62 with a four speed/4bbl and it was a quick Valient. It surprised a lot of guys that it was as quick as it was.
I sometimes cut extruded aluminum with a sliding compound miter. As stated above, a carbide toothed plywood blade.
I have a bit of experience with wood working so if I can give a little insight. Wood blades really are for wood, from a safety stand point they should stay that way. You get a lot of heating from cutting metals and in most cases the rpms for wood and metal are different metal being slower. In theory sure you will be able to cut the metal. The plain fact is that you can send a tooth flying or shatter a blade as well, if things go just wrong the doctors will be pulling it out of you. They do make blades for cutting metals for a circular saw, they have a thicker blade that will result in a thicker kerf, the blade lets are affixed to a higher standard and consist of a different alloy to sync the heat properly. I recommend good safety gl***es and a full face sheild and if possible a welding jacket or leather shop apron, when misused these blades can shatter and project into some horrifying shrapnel.
X2 There are special grinds and grades of Saw Blades designed just for this. If its cutting properly you can get a decent finish to the aluminum depending on its type, cut rate etc.. a 125 mi wasnt trying to hard. We had an old Oliver with a metal O rake ATB grind on her and it was the nuts for speed and blanking out a sheet . This was a Model shop in Rochester NY. You can cut metals on your table saw no prob. But a correct blade will set you back a few dollars. Properly cared for it will last a long time. We had a local shop maintain them. Some of them were from Germany. You could rig a spray mister or a cold air gun if you have the ca ching. Obviously a little sears is not as sturdy but will get the job done. Watch you fingers... good luck Luke
That works good for window frame cuts on chop saws. Those blades have no set to them. He'll really get hurt doing that.
We use a regular wood blade on a chopsaw to cut aluminum extrusion. Been doing this everyday for years.
theres a boat builder just up the road and i think all they use to cut aluminum with is circular saws, the parts are just to big to cut any other way, i have done this many times myself with no trouble, like a hot knife through ****er. spin saw........ it's the new exercise craze
Again, I would not use a table saw to cut aluminum sheet, I don't know why you would put the blade in backwards and rely totally on the blade braze to hold the carbide teeth in as you cut. A wood working table saw has a splitter and an anti kick back device, on most home type table saws they are inadequate, good anti kick devices usually appear in the $1500 range of saws. The home owner saws are notorious for launching wood back at you with or with out the kick back or the splitter. I've had wood kick back and im-bed in the shop wall, crack me in the ribs, jump up and punch me in the face and I'm relatively safety concscious, how would you rig an anti kick that will grab into aluminum sheet on your table saw. I suggest that if you are going to improperly use the tool at least make sure the sharp aluminum is held down securely so we don't read about how they pulled it out of your chest cavity. It is possible to cut metal with a circular saw, there are rebar blades, concrete blades and many other blades to use with a circular saw. I could see using a radial arm saw as well as you can properly hold down the work. I would highly recommend against feeding a live piece of any type of metal towards the blades of a table saw in any configuration, it will be only a matter of time before it kicks your ***. BTW, most kick backs hit me right in the nut sack, so much that I wear a leather nail apron to cover the boys. So that's were that chunk of aluminum will be headed.
Francisco is giving good advice. I have used one of these for 1/4" steel, worked well. Metal Devil. http://www.mkmorse.com/products/index.aspx?product=75 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=162837&highlight=metal+devil I used the Metal Devil blade to cut the steel.
I wouldn't cut thin sheet with a table saw or chop saw but I have cut 3/8's and thicker aluminum plate with one, br*** too. sharp carbide blade not turned backwards. slow and very steady, full face shield and leather jacket, may not stop the shrapnel it were to go bad but it gives the illusion of a little safety. not familiar with the "spin saw" looks like a portable Cutall or sheetrock router
I think he's talking about a rotozip. There are any numbers of companies makeing the sam setup the bit resembles a drill bit. I have one here that i used for cutting round holes in steel duct work when I was still working as an operating engineer. It uses an adjustable arm that locates in a center hole and the bit is driven by a quarter or three eights drill. Anyway I think he's talking about something along the lines of a rotozip. I have seen a fella use a drill and an end mill also, it worked OK. I also worked with a machinist that used a router with a carbid bit to cut and shap aluminum away from the bridgport.
If you look at his post it says he is using an off brand Dremel, so I think that is more like what I posted above
i've cut tons of aluminum w/table saw and skill saw ,blade forward....i've also cut plenty of sheet steel with a skill saw blade on backwards.... it won't allow the teeth to catch and if the sheet is thin enough it burns/cuts nice....the fellow who suggested Plenty of teeth, negative pitch, atb, and silicone spray lube or wax ,,,knows his ****....only thing i'd add is clamp everything as you cut ..... aluminium tends to pull if your blade isn't sharp equally on both sides.esp with chop saw.
Once I had a 4' X 8" X 3/4" plate of 6061 aluminum and used a circular saw to cut it into the sizes I needed. Be real careful and have some one spray wd40 or something on it to keep the aluminum from sticking on the blade. JC
I'd safely say Donnie had meant that he was using a rotozip type of tool. In the off chance that you need to cut sheet stock, you can buy aluminum blades for soffit and siding, grab a cheap wax candle and run it all over the sides of the blade to lubricate before running it , this will stop the sticking and nasty screeching.
A rotozip is the same basic thing different brand name. You can even put dremel bits in one. it still uses the same type of cutting tool. Resembles a drill bit. Maybe he'll post a pic and then none of us will be guessing.
A skip tooth bandsaw blade intended for wood cuts aluminium very well use some lube (paraffin) a slow cutting speed the job's done, but if you are a woodworker try a dry lubricant such as candle wax or else you'll spend hours cleaning up your saw!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(Don't ask me how I know)
Not wanting to hijack this thread but has anybody tried one of these ? http://www.evolutionpowertools.com/
The Jalopy Journal
