Shot works way better=round balls,helps pean and kill off stress points. Gl*** bead gets sharp and can put stress rizers in the metal were cracks can start. To the eye they pritty much look alike,but under high mag can see def. Best to just clean them and magnsflux,look for any cracks.
Plus you can never clean the gl*** beads out completely, they get into the metal then release into the hot oil, ruining your engine. What your eyes see as clean isnt.
Do not bead blast parts which you may powder coat.... I realized you would not powder coat parts in a valve train, however; just a heads up in case anyone was about to powder coat parts....
Wouldn't it stress relieve the springs? And wouldn't that ruin the temper that makes the spring springy?....just asking.
I had a friend gl*** bead an aluminum tunnel ram intake for his SBC '55 Chevy and he did not due the steam cleaning on the base and the engine was short lived, ate the bearings and all friction surfaces up in less then 100 miles, becareful and beware!
I would just soak them in parts cleaner if they're really dirty. But I would also repalce springs, retainers, locks, etc. that are old enough to be that bad unless it's a restoration.
What makes you say this? I'm not a professional but I bead blast all the parts that I powder coat. I've never had a problem.
I've always beadblasted heads and intakes and havent had a problem yet (knock on wood) I should probably rethink that, also beadblasted parts that have been powdercoated, might have to change my ways... on the valvetrain parts we soaked 'em real good and have been hitting with a wire wheel, seems to be working okay...
If the springs are dirty enough to require such an abrasive cleaning then they are likely old/tired and should be replaced. .
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