Dropping an F1 pickup?

CPP offers a 3 inch drop axel for F-1, i just bought one for my 57 (same exact axel as f-1) and removed 2 leaves and it dropped it pretty low, it cost me $480 but after i got the shit reamed and etc it was pretty easy, as for the rear end it might be rear under spring which you will then have to flip the rear over spring, i know i had to do that on my 57.

 

We want pics.

 

i put my axle up on top of my springs, the tierod runs just over the top on the springs, the other thing you will need to overcome is the drag link at an angle that will give you bump steer, i`m going to raise my steering box, dont let anyone tell you to z bend your drag link as that does nothing to overcome bump steer.

 

Kevin, you can drop (or raise) the driver's side just like any other Ford spindle......it just takes more heat, due to it's larger Dia.......and bend slooooow, while heating....
I'm using F-1 spindles on my A pu, and bent them UP @ 1 1/2" so the tierod would go over my wishbones....

 

Wouldn't flipping the axle to a spring-under drop some of your suspension parts below the scrub line? What about necessitating a frame notch?

I'm all for inexpensive, home-brewed hot rodding, but it needs to be safe, too.

 

It's like you had the ESP Kevin...

 

Moved a lot of axles on top of the springs over the years. Done correctly its not a problem.

Sinister gave you a good solution for the steering arm bump steer problem. And yes Zing the drag link doesn't work worth a flip.

You may or may not have to C notch the frame.

reverse spring eyes works with that set up as does de-arching the spring.

The rear should have the rear under the spring like the front, you can get about 3" just by moving the rear to the top of the springs if that is the case. Otherwise if the rear is on top of the springs blocks will work. Don't get crazy with them. Dearching the rear spring will also work.

I got a big hammer so all we need is some big angle or a couple of pieces of railroad rail.

 

are you using the stock rear??

 

Wink wink, nudge nudge .

 

Not to interupt the thread, but I'd like to find a dropped axle for a 47-53 chev pickup. I think I have scrub for 2", but I'll chance 4". Dearching is not an option, as the big block has already tortured the springs to their limit. Help.

 

Yea I know, every time I ask a question about Wilbur's car everyone thinks that I'm talking about my car.

The thing that bothers me is to know that there is more than one F1 on the streets of KC.

Hey when ya gonna bring me that 21 stud? And are you going to introduce me to the fella that has that mobile axle dropping business? Is that like a mobile crap game? Who would of ever thought that axle dropping would become a clandestine operation.

Davey Just watch our class adz there are dropped axles for your AD every once in a while. They usually don't go to high. Or if you have an axle handy that you can ship there are a few fellas here on the HAMB that offer that service reasonable. Look in the HAMBodex.

And if you want to keep it real you'll forget about the whole scrub line thing, that's an issue for street rodders, traditionaly hot rods and customs have always been a little edgy.

 

Flipping the rear axle gets you more than 3" remember the thickness of the leaf spring too! More like 5"-6"

Also- my Stude pu had a flipped front axle (and leafs removed) and it had a lot of axle wrap when braking, I wouldn't do it again without a link of some sort added-

 

I always forget the thickness of the spring. On an F-1 that could be considerable.

A lot of guys just move the axle to the other side of the spring on the front. I have always built a pad along the lines of the one it has on the top. But it wouldn't be that hard to make some raduis rods of sorts and mount them near the king pin boss. If your wrap came from spring flex you could just build something alon the lines of a traction bar I guess.

I'd say it was because it was a Stude but I like Studes.

 

There are a couple interseting threads about lowering these trucks in the F1/F100 social groups.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=173

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=8

 

This is a traditional board...the right way is to simply install four or five market ready hogs in the bed.
That, or find a mad blacksmith and forge a loop for the spring right through it like a Bugatti.

 

Before flip and after flip....(REAR END)
Pics were taken last year..

I changed it out in March for an 8" but I have the stock one sitting here with the perches already done if you need it.
Gearing is around 3:90...
8" has 2:79

 

Wow Spoons! Killer truck!

 

Seriously, I have to disagree with you. Functional engineering is one of the things that separates traditional rods from rat rods. And while I agree that traditional rods are edgy, it doesn't mean they should be unsafe.

Do you really want the threaded ends of your axle U bolts digging into the pavement when you get a front flat at highway speeds - or faster?

Maybe its just me, as I drive the shit out of my rods, but I've always felt it imperative to think these kinds of things through when building a car.

'Nuff said. I don't want to hijack this thread or get into an argument.

 

I agree...That's why I put Fatman dropped spindles on it. I used to crank down the torsion bars, but it rode on the snubbers and NO shock travel..Now It drives like a Caddy

 

Another option would be to check out Sid's Dropped axles. They are dropped factory pieces and they also have tie rod drops to lower the it 2" to clear the spring. Used both on my '64 F100 and have been very pleased.

 

Spoons - checked out the article in Custom Classic Truck on your F1 - that things is absolutely perfect! The color, the stance, the way you guys did the interior - everything is on the money. Thanks also for all the input on suspension ideas. - SpeedyJones

 

glad you liked it Speedy

 

We aren't argueing just discussing. Kevin won't get shook unless we get to the point swapping adresses so we can meet up and have a more heated discussion.

I won't argue that someone could get hurt if the had a serious accident. But I don't personally know anyone that has busted a tire with a scrub line issue and done so.

Having a scrub line issue doesn't make one a rat rod it just means that it is a low bugger. There are a lot of newer high end bagged cars that will lay frame. If they will lay frame when the bags are flat they have a scrub line issue.

 

Well what front suspension are you using? Sounds like Volare with torsion bars and all. I put a TCI M II style under my 51, but I got a bone stock 50 I would like to lower a wee bit.

 

correct

 

Cool, I did the same as you out back, 8" flipped with a little c notch.

 

It's all good - I think one of the really great things about this board is that its possible to get so much input when you're trying figure out how you want to modify something on a rod you're building.

Personally, I've learned a hell of a lot from the discussions on this board. And since I may be building an F1 in the very near future, all this information - and discussion - is definitely useful, probably to a lot of rodders out there.

Keep on keepin' on - Speed

 

If you flip the axle you will need to notch the frame.

I have got 3+ inches just by taking out every other spring and some of the short ones. That works but there is one draw back. You can not haul anything heavy. I also have used the Posie spring kit. It has three positions for the front spring mount.

That front end you got you should be able to get low just my unloading the torsion bars. I never used the Volare but have used the Cordoba torsion bar and when I was done you cuold just get a beer can under the front bumper.