Here is a picture of the motor that I am putting in my 51 Chevy. The car is a total cruiser and the reason that the alternator and the york compressor are both on 2 side of the motor, is because I am leaving the other side for power steering and air conditioning. (the compressor that is mounted is for my air suspension) So all these pulleys are lined up, and there is good belt wrap on the 3 most important items. But it doesn't really look right to me. Any ideas on how i can make this better? I am not even sure if it will fit in the car this way, since the alternator is almost 18 inches from the center of the crank... This is all in the mock up stage, so PLEASE let me know how I could make it better, while still having it all on one side of the motor.
All I can offer is that when my Buddy and I droppped my old 232" Stude V-8 into my '52 Willys Areo Eagle 2-dr h/t back in like '66 or so(??), we did it by seeing if it would fit in the bay by dropping it in using the overhead beam hoist and "accomadating(Sp?) such to fit, He, He!!, "fitment" issues with either hand tools and car part swaps or we used a "smoke wrench"! Car part swap parts were that the Willy's ****** driveshaft's output "Yoke" or whatever(?) was able to be switched out so the Stude ****** driveshaft "Yoke" so fit fine!! So have at her! pdq67
In all honesty, I don't even know what conventional would be. I would love to get the alternator pulled in closer to the block. How close to the exhaust can the alternator sit? Also, I want to keep the belt wrap on the water pump as good as possible, especially since its only a single groove pulley on the water pump.
That looks like it will hit the frame,steering box and you want your power steering on the drivers side close to the box awful big compressor for suspension.Do some measuring but that setup would even be hard to belt properly.your alt. belt would have to be six foot long.And think ahead with that waterpump pulley,what you going to do if the inside belt brakes,going to take the fan off side the road to replace the belt.,go to the s****yard and find a stock chevy setup and then think about the suspenion air supply.Just a suggestion.
The compressor is sitting right where the power steering pump normally goes. With the short water pump (used in everything thru 1968, trucks thru 1972, and vettes forever), the alternator normally sits up above the driver side exhaust manifold, and the ac compressor fits over the p*** side exhaust manifold (they used the A6 long round compressor thru the 60s). I'm guessing if you leave the air compressor where it is, it'll hit the frame. Chevy had air suspension in 1958, the compressor for it sat above the front of the driver side cylinder head.
The compressor should be up top on the p***engers side along with the alt to the right and down from the compressor . Then the p/s goes down where you have the compressor now by the steering box . That was the set up back in the 1960's to the 1970's . You can also have the p/s bottom drivers side , alt p***enger side and a/c compressor in the top middle . The way you have it now will never work . Get that compressor out of there and find it a new home . I would go to the salvage yard and get a newer smaller compressor instead of that antique R12 version you have now ! Retro Jim
Alternator moved to the p*** side when they went to the long water pump, starting in 69 on most cars. In the early days it was on the driver side, up and in just a bit from where he has it laying.
I really want to keep this compressor because of the high volume of air. I am not against moving it though. I mounted it where it is, because the bracket that was on it, (volvo) bolted up nicely in this location. How close to the exhaust manifold can the alternator be? Does anyone have a pic of where is should go above the drivers exhaust manifold?
Also, how much belt wrap should the water pump have? I was thinking at least 90 degrees, but that may be more then necessary.
OK , it's been 40+ years ! I am a Ford guy since then so I tend to forget ! Anyway you got what I was refering to . Retro Jim
Here is something else I just cobbled together to see how it would be, but now the alternator is less than an inch from the exhaust manifold: I think I am getting warmer, but still not quite good enough.
This is where the alternator originally mounted with the early style (short) water pump. Starting in 1969, all small block heads had the holes in the front. early 70s trucks and 70s vettes used an alternator bracket that bolts to the front of the head, it would make life easy for you if you got one. The alternator/water pump use the belt groove that's closest to the engine.
2belts eventually, 1 for each side of the motor. But the alternator will only have 1. And for now, I only have a single groove water pump pulley.
Stock setup used the middle belt for the ac/water pump, and the front belt for PS. Cars that did not have ac had a gap between the alternator and ps belts. The PS pulley was as separate pulley that fit into the main lower pulley, with two funky round "tabs" to align them. The more stock stuff you can use, the better, is my opinion.
The second mock up is better but still not what your after. Your going to have slippage at the crank and alt in the first pic. unless you have an idler pulley between the water pump and alt. Something that is lower than the top edge of the water pump pulley and the alt. pully. You would be better off getting a Sanborn compressor and making it a cleaner and easier setup for yourself, keep trying and good luck---
Its wierd, for some reason my single groove water pump pulley lines up with the outer groove on the crank pulley, looks like I may need to but a new pulley. I will see if I can find that early style alternator bracket. How close to the exhaust can the alternator safely be?
I would go down to the wrecking yard and look at several late model serpentine belt set ups. It may not be as "traditional" as a "v''belt set up, but it might be alot easier to work with. Motorhome stuff in particular
It really doesn"t matter which side you put the alt,your main downfall is still the location and the bracket mount on that compressor.
That's likely because the pulley setup included power steering, which is driven from the inboard crank pulley sheave.......and the belt is dedicated to only the PS pump. The outer crank pulley sheave ran the water pump and alternator. You might consider setting the York upright, in closer and run a dedicated belt to it off the inboard crank pulley sheave. On the compressor, it appears to be a dual sheave clutch pulley and therefore the remaining sheave on the York could run the alternator. That would leave the remaining crank sheave for the other side of the engine. Just a thought. I had a '51 Chev many years ago and I can't imagine what you first pictured fitting in the frame, or clearing the inner fender panels. Ray
Facing the engine..Alt on upper right, power steering on lower right, a/c on upper left on most factory apps. Many, many, many brackets both aftermarket and custom are out there except for maybe that weird square york compressor. 63-73 factory corvette brackets have that following set-up I mentioned earlier if you are looking for something v-belt. The compressor would need to be changed.
What if you were to go to the wreck yard and look at later model components to accomplish the task? They tend to be more compact, Sunbird components tend to be used a lot.
Go to the junkyard and look for a early to late 70's chevy van, They had the accs. tucked it tight. And still used the v-belts.
I think I understand what you're trying to achieve. You want to run a total of 5 belt driven accessories. Water Pump, Power Steering, Alternator, A/C Compressor, and Air Suspension Compressor. I've thought about this same thing, and it comes down to trying to put 10 pounds of **** in a 5 pound sack. About the only solution my feeble mind could come up with was to run a third-member pulley (like a round-track alternator) for the York compressor. Either that or run the alternator up top and use a hood scoop.
Here is something that I just mocked up to see how it sets. I have removed the compressor for now, but I need to figure a way to work it back in. The probem I have now is that the alternator is only about 1/2 inch from the exhaust manifold. Its almost like I need to get the motor in the car and then get this all figured out. Unfortunatly it just means more down time for the car.
That big bulky volvo bracket seems to take up alot of room... how about making a flat plate that the compressor mounts to using the holes on the bottom of the compressor. Slot the holes in the bracket to slide it for tension?
The Jalopy Journal
