while studing my new to me 35/36 5 window coupe the other evening i noticed that the unfinished box plates in the rear seemed to be really thin... Well rephrase that alot thinner than what ive been accustom to boxing frames with before..... Im no pro when it comes to this and by no means a know-it-all. I definately know enough to get the task at hand done but on the few cars i have installed box plates in, the plates where typically 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick but then again, so was the thickness of the original frames..... the 35/36 frame looks to be alot thinner than this and thus are the box plates that the previous owner installed...... so my question, how thick should the box plates used on the 35/36 frame be ??????
i use 3/16" in motor area and sometimes 1/8 in rear section at least 1/8" is a good response, no need to go over 3/16" unless your building something crazy
I am thinking the plates in the rear are 1/8th but not too sure yet.... i guess i need to climb back under there and do some measuring before i get my feathers all in a ruffle anyone else have opinions ??
I normally use 3/16 plate for boxing a frame.... I would think that if what is in your car is a least as thick and the original frame rails it should be fine.....
"Opinions"??? Measure the frame metal. You will find it to measure .136", unless rust has set in and 'thinned' it to .120". That would be roughly 11 gauge. Measure it and see what you have. God wouldn't box a '36 frame with 1/4". Neither should you.
Originally i was figuring on finishing out the box plates with 3/16th.... Like i said i need to get back under there and measure it.... but im thinking it is pretty close to 1/8th that is under there..... Now next question, should i box the X member too or will the rails being boxed be sufficient ?? im not use to doing these fat fendered fords, in fact this is the first one ive ever worked on... got tons of box jobs on model a's under the belt and alot of 49-54 chevy pickups and f1 & f100s too.... so yeah the fat fendered ford thing is a new experience for me
On my old T bucket I boxed the frame with 1/8 and it worked fine for the 3,000 miles I put on it and last I knew it was still gong strong. On my current A project I boxed it with 3/16 for peice of mind. On a '36 with the X member 1/8 will be fine with a stock to mild small block. I have seen many guys box the engine half with 1/4 to be able to drill and tap for the moter mounts for a cleaner look and ease of changing mounts on a painted ch***is but as far as streangth it is a little over kill.
ok made it out today and checked out the box plates installed by the previous owner..... Measured out to exactly 1/8th inch...... But question still at hand, do i box up the X memeber too ???
Why would you need to box the X member? Are you going to use it to support something that would result in the channel section being twisted? The purpose of boxing is to support loads that the original channel frame cannot support properly. For example, if you put cantilevered motor mounts on the frame rail. And using .125" steel to box a .136" thick channel sounds fine to me.
Use 1/8" boxing plates. Don't box the X-member. 3/16" boxing plates are needless overkill, but then again, unless you are going drag racing where weight really matters, 3/16" won't hurt anything.----Brian
Brian, thanks for your reply.... many of my friends on here have spoken very highly of you....... and i truely trust and appreciate your input thanks again
If your a novice at welding do the 3/16", start your welds on the 3/16" and let it "melt " into the stock frame metal. If your a pro still use the 3/16"! Easier to weld brackets, motor mounts, etc. to......................
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