so...did you build a jig for your frame jig?

so I was thinking to myself...."self, what are you going to do about building your t-bucket frame?" I thought about this and thought about building a frame jig because all I hear about is how to keep it straight when you are welding not to avoid the heat warpage and I got to thinking....what keeps me from having warpage when I weld together the frame jig? So, my question is this...do I need to build a jig for my frame jig and a jig for that jig and so on and so on? Just some thoughts about what I need to do

 

Everyone on here is gonna chime in and say you have to have a frame jig. Not so. If you are building a one off frame for yourself and not going into business seeling frames, you can do the same thing on the concrete floor with some shims and a level.

But, with that said, I built a frame jig that can be used as a workbench and plan on adding a removable top.

 

A frame jig doesn't make anything straight... just makes it quicker to get it straight. If your only building 1 frame it don't matter. If your gonna build lots of frames, invest the time in building a jig that is square.

 

than if you had a jig to build your jig,, would you need a jig for the first jig?..and if so what about a jig for that jig...

what came first the jig or the frame jig?

awww **** my head is hurting

 

No, you don't need a jig to make a jig.

We made my frame without a jig, just a level, measuring tape, and consistently verifying the two. There was some adjusting to be done during welding because the heat wanted to do its job, which I presume would have been a little more preemptive with a jig but the frame is within 1/32 as far as being square (which was probably/partially some luck, hahaha).

 

Built mine on the floor and used a sharpy to lay it out on the floor first....

You can see the lines on the floor...

 

I'm with Von Rigg Fink.....when does it stop? The madness of it all...jig after jig after jig...the world would be filled with frame jigs! Take a chance...thats what I'm gonna do....besides, a car that veers one way or the other is more interesting to drive!

 

I poured a level bay in the back of my shop just for this purpose. For my latest frame I used a HEAVY motorcycle table we built. It is wood but it allowed me to bolt 2 6" Steel I beams crossways. Bench gets parked on level pad and frame is built on that. I tore it down last night, I beams will go back to a pal I borrowed them from.

 

Now that's funny !!

 

Well, couldn't a guy use, say, hardwood planks cut to exact length to place between the rails, clamp it all together, then carefully weld in your crossmembers? the planks and clamping force should help keep everything straight and true and free of warpage, provided you take your time welding it all together.

 

gotta throw in a little humor outcast...I'm here for the fun!

 

I wonder if NASA has a Jig for thier Rocket science jigs?

 

A couple things I do, set everything on some blocks to get it off the ground a little, use wood shims an a good 4' level to get it flat. I make refrence marks with a center punch centered on the ends of the main rails so you have a definite point to measure for square. Also I put some midpoint marks around the firewall area and run in some sheetmetal screws, real convienient to just hook a tape on to pull measurments foreward, back or square.

 

Having been in the steel fabricating business for several years, my experience says: build a prototype (on a flat steel table if possible). The prototype does'nt have to be finish welded-just tacked but double checked for square, dimensional accuracy, etc. (Some automotive aftermarket items were actually fab'd on the car to insure fit.) Then construct the jig around the "good" part. As long as you build the jig heavy enough to withstand handling and abuse, it should provide repeatibility. Worked for me-many times..

 

Huh, my question is this, are you using round tube, square stock or fabricating out of sheet stock? If you are using sheet stock you would most likely want to build a control system to hold your fabrication.

 

Yea I have a hell for stout workbench ( 3x3x1/4 angle) that I can remove the top and use for a frame table. Jigs are nice but they are for production. You avoid heat warp by using proper welding techniques.

 

I don't think you are allowed to say Jig anymore. I think the politically correct term is "Fixture Table"

When was the last time your Level, Square and Tape Measure were calibrated?

When you add 4 ten thousands to 4 more ten thousands do you get 8 twenty thousands?

But truly, I think that if you would use the ****fer it's intended purpose then all your answers will *** to you

 

So what is the "standard" actually compared to?

 

Well to get the standard you first have to establish a percentage of variability. Once you get that you can then adjust everything according to the variables you have chosen then add in pie. Now that is not the standard like you would use for calculating the cir***ference of a circle but pie like in peach or apple. That's just to account for the hunger factor.

Now once you get that established you must use a particle generator and two levels one you basic carpenter's level and the other would be a transom level, or if you want a tru millennium standard you then must use GPS coordinates. All this is to be sure that the fixture or jig if you prefer is square with the world. Being square with the world is probably close enough for establishing the standard of a traditional frame. But if you are after the nano preciseness of a a tru millennium hot rod what wil th all the MII technology and all then you will definately have to go with the GPS coordinate system to be sure that you are actually square with the universe.

Either method should ensure that your standard is within .12500 or 1/8". Give or take.

 

I'm thinking there is a golden foot somewhere in a environmently controlled room where it is under perfect 72 degrees at 0% humidity and sea level atmosphere. The trouble with that thouugh is gold is too soft.

So maybe it's made of kryptonite and kept in that cave in Colorado where all of the important people get evacuated to.

 

We have built many frames and the whole trick I belive is to square and tack,square and tack,square and tack, and then when final welding to not foucus on one joint, but to go to the opposite end and take your time to let things cool naturaly. And keep checking for square. We have had no problems with it doing it on the shop floor using shims where we needed. Good luck with the project!

 

I built my jig out of wood and made it level, straight, and square. This enables you to clamp the frame rails and hold them straight and squarly in place while doing your welding.

But do what you want. So no...you do not have to jig yourself to death!!

 

I have what I refer to as a frame jig, it is in reality a device that raise's my work off the floor a comfortable amount and also is sturdy enough to clamp things too when welding or fabricating. It is made with 12 foot long pieces of 10 inch angle iron. It sure helps a bunch when your old and your work is off the floor,

 

"Well, couldn't a guy use, say, hardwood planks cut to exact length to place between the rails"

Well you can. I dont even use hardwood just spruce x4s and 2x6s. Have built three cars on the jig which is open ended. I use wide rubber bands to hold the tubing in place while I tack it together. I took a lot of flack for using wood. I don't really care. I have three cars built on it and I KNOW that most of the critics have never even built their first one so it really doesnt matter. A jig as you have already percieved is not the be all end all. It is a handy tool that makes the job easier and keeps stuff in place while you measure cut and tack it all together.
Don

 

My first two frames I built I used cement blocks with tubing running across them. It took a lot of time leveling and squaring everything. Then I had to be real careful not to move anything while welding or anything...then had to check to make sure nothing moved during the process. This is fine for doing one or two frames.

After we realized we wanted to build several frames a table seemed to be more efficient.

The first table was built with recycled 2x6 tubing. We built it on a level shop floor but where prepared to level if needed. I would guess we've built as many as 10 framesand a camper on it. It was a lot quicker to set up and tack it directly to the table. I would say it cuts the build time by atleast 2/3's.

My new table was actually built on my old table.....so I guess you could say you need a jig to make a jig
Clark

 

Mine is made out of 10" I-beam as well, it is just a very handy was of keeping things level and square, and as Joe says it keeps my old *** from working in the floor so much! Its on wheels with jack-down screws so when I'm not using it for a jig we also use it for a work table or just roll it outside.

 

Nothing wrong with making a wood deck you can use LVL's or micro laminate joists to get a nice flat surface so you don't get a crown or a swail, you can get fire coated plywood to make it fire resistant. Nothing wrong with the word Jig, it's a dance done by people in green.

 

I used my table saw as a jig and it worked out just fine. I C clamped the rails to the saw top and knocked them around until they were true. I used a 4' level to check them for flatness.
T

 

WOW if you say "jig" enough. it starts to lose its meaning. try it
Jig for the jig that went on the jig for the other 3 jig's that helped to build the frame jig. then comes the jig to build the hairpins that would also need a jig or two.

What the hell is a Jig.

That being said I am gonna try it on the floor with some shims and a level and lots of checking and sqauring and checking for square oh **** here it goes now square is gonna be lost.

 

Do you use a Jig saw to make a jig??? Or did the jig saw come from a jig therefore it is a jig saw??? and why is it called a jig saw puzzle if none of that **** is straight anyway???