Are you running a fuel filter? I usually use a gl*** one in the engine compartment so I can at a glance see if there is **** in the gas. All it takes is one dirty tankful to make it funky.
Thats funny under "my carb is flooding" it says no more than 6.5 psi and then at the bottom it says no more than 6 psi....but it really should be 5.5 psi. Weird.
I'm not the brightest bulb on the tree but I think it's saying that anything over 6.5 is too much but ideal pressure is 5.5 psi.
I have two old rebuildable 1850 Holley vacuum secondary 600cfm carb's out in the garage now. I did have two 1850 type 390 cfm carb's out at Doc's years ago when we were both divorced and batching together. His later no-account thieving Step Son stole both of them and had the balls to try to sell them back to me and I didn't catch it in time! Hind sight, looking back! I figure the 390 cfm vacuum secondary Holley 4-barrel carb will be perfect for a stock to mildly warmed over 305. And fwiw, the 350hp/327 L-79 engine ran a 585 cfm Holley back then stock! Hunt up a big truck boneyard and look under the hoods of the F-600 and F-750 mid '70's to later?? 6-wheeler Ford trucks for starters. Dam rebuildable 390 cfm carbs should be almost free by now.. pdq67
Oh I'm not dim, it just seems that they would commit to a number. If 5.5 is where they want it then why are they even talking about 6.5. Maybe it's like all of their product, they are waiting to see if there is enough demand for 5.5 before commiting to it. ZMAN, I have heard enough bad stories about the gl*** filters that I figured it was universally accepted that they were bad news. Properly mounted they should last for ever, though.
Bolded for truth! Those scare the **** out of me too. I have a customer that took possession of his 61 Olds after we did some AC work on it. He had a clear plastic filter just like the one shown on it. He got within a mile of his house and the car caught fire, pulled into his favorite neighborhood tavern and watched it burn to the ground. Made me physically ill when I got the phone call. Everything was new, routed correctly by the owner of the car. The filter just gave up. Sad indeed. The gl*** ones are a bit safer, so long as the gl*** cannot strike or vibrate against anything.
My expirence with Edelbrock carbs is take them out of the box and bolt them on. After the engine warms up set the idle mixture with a vacuum guage and close the hood. They are about as bulletproof as a street carb can get. Put yours back like it came from Edelbrock and it should be OK for thr 305.
Yep, it's all about the mounting. And just a fyi, my Buick came with a gl*** bowled fuel filter from the factory as well... And metal ones can come apart, I've seen that as well. And plastic ones can as well. Oh **** it, no fuel filters they all ****.
i had a 600 edelbrock on my last car. it ran great. then, my new car had a quadramonkey on it, that was pretty worn out. i put a 600 carter on it that i had laying around the shop. it ran pretty well, and way better than the previous carb. i remembered talking to the edelbrock people on the phone, and they recomended a regulator. so , i put a regulator on it, and set it at 5 psi, it made a world of difference. i'm not telling you what to do, just letting you know what happened to me. i have found that, in my brief experience with edelbrocks, my cars have both run better with regulators. good luck with whatever you decide to do.
The manufacturer of the carb says it will run right out of the box. Yes that is true, sort of, on an engine that is modified less true and more modified less true again. The engine ran fine in May. This is the hint kiddo, May, cool air dry air, along comes June and July, August and up grows the corn. In the midwest the corn makes Illinois into a rain forest, that is why it rained every other day in the midwest this summer. Humidity is directly water content in the air, the more water in the air the less oxygen content, the more water in the air the less evaporative the fuel becomes, the more the fuel remains liquid, the more the carb loads up as it can not digest liquid fuel. Thus the science of Air Fuel Mixture Ratio, not theory, ask the guys at the dyno shop, check your plugs, re jet to 8% smaller with the proper metering rods. The water in the air also affects the choke, as the warm wet air comes into the carb it hits the cold air m*** caused by the vapors being dissolved from the fuel, this causes a dew point condition right at the exact spot that the choke picks up it's read to open or close to choke and it hangs the choke up, again the smaller jets and rods lessen this problem. Of course you had to only lessen the jets 2 sizes for Wyoming, higher equates to less O2, higher also equates to less water content in the air, if you had the record 87% humidity that we had in the midwest along with the elevation the people would suffer as well as the engines. Many times a guy will put a different carb on and wow it will run great, yup because it will have a different air fuel profile. Watch these boards as summer approaches, all the guys with spits and pops as it heats up and gets humid. If you really want to get performance out of your engine you have to pay some respect to the carb as a device, there is a reason that they sell jet kits and spring kits and all the other 100 items in the tuning catalog. Ever watch 2 lane black top, the other guy, the one who went out every night to "tune the car", well he was changing jets, and in this computer tuned day we tend to over look the art of it. Learn some carb tuning Carlos, you'll be a god.
I've been around them since I was a kid. I don't think they (can break) when mounted in the car. They (can be broken) by hitting them with a hammer, but never break by themselves. Neary all ACfuel pumps from about 1929 into the 1940s had gl*** bowls. I dropped a big crescent wrench once and broke one. Generally speaking, a broken gl*** fuel filter bowl is no more likely than a broken fuel line/hose.
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