I am building a 26/27 roadster with a flattie. Everybody talks about a 39 trans. but I just don't see them for sale too often and when I do they seem expensive. Any reason not to run a 37 trans from a car? Price is right so just wondering.
Id use it if you got it, but you also have some options later on if you want to collect parts as you go. Heres a link with some good info for you. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_transID_3speed-options.htm
You won't notice any difference. The '39 has a different synchro setup, slightly smoother operation, that's all. The big deal about the '39 trans is that the ge****ts from the side shifter trans will fit, and they are a lot more common for parts. If you have a good '37, by all means use it. When it breaks, then find a '39!
Run it. Just picked up a '36 trans for 5 bucks. The 18 tooth cluster was rust pitted but I have another, gaskets & run it. I am sure I won't notice 4 or 5 hundered dollars worth of inferiority over a '39 or pickup top loader with late car gears. It's the 80 pound truck speeds that are NFG.
So whats a good price to pay. It is listed as being out of a restored and running vehicle. It has the open driveline setup to which surprises me since I thought that was only for trucks. I have a set of 32 pedals but wondering if I should p/u the '40 pedal ***y too for $125.00. BTW he's asking $200 for the trans.
So, this is an early ('37) trans with the early gears, and an open drive tailshaft? Wonder of the mainshaft was cut to fit...or if the case has later gears. If the latter, be sure it has the late (3" wide) fork on the 2nd/high synchro sleeve, not a ground-out early fork. The early fork has the notch for the shifter and the fork attaching pins in a centered 'register', so the early fork moves the late sleeve (which has the shift fork groove to the rear) out of 'neutral' when installed. (not all the way into 2nd, and too far into 3rd, popping the detent balls and springs out of the synchro mesh unit. The '40 Ford pedal ***'y has the clutch clevis on the left, whereas your '32 setup has it on the right; the '32 clutch pedal axis pin (shaft) runs thru the pedal mount, putting the clevis in line with the clutch arm on the bellhousing. A simple linkage rod connects them. The '40 will require a '40 Ford ball swivel bracket on the frame rail ('40-'48 part) that attaches with 2 bolts. There is an arm (like a 'Z' bar on a later model) that connects the tab on the '40 bellhousing clutch shaft to this slotted-end bar. It's a complicated thing to explain, but will make your brakes easier to hook up, as the pedal bracket will mount your master cylinder. '39 pedals have clutch setup like your '32 setup, but mount master cylinder also. The '39 setup is hard to find, but a lifesaver for simplicity. (and authenticity)
Heres a picture. At least it looks like open drive from the pics? I may not know what I'm talking about. Haven't seen in person yet. Thanks for all the replies.
It was in a 37, but what is it? Open drive rules out a factory installation. Sounds like someone updated the "resto" with newer components. BTW. I can't download your pic.
Truck pedals work good if you have a flat mounting surface, I used an Xember but made a bolt in plate to mount '49 pickup pedals and master under the floor. Look at the VIN on the trans to know what it came from: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_trans-pics/Flathead_Trans_1942to48truck_3speed.jpg And know the prefix, 18, 54, etc... http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_serialnumbers.htm If it has a lever on the clutch shaft pedal will have to be like the '39 set or creative linkage made. Also easy to change the shaft to anything later model, column shift or whatever and mount the ball pivot on the frame, I did. Easy to swap tailshaft back to a closed driveshaft if staying with a torque tube banjo. I had pictures of the setup before I put the body on, can't find them now. I would check early V8 websited for drawings and pictures
Noted this thread.....the outputshaft and u-joint are NOT the open drive setup. You have the stock closed drive u-joint and mainshaft there. The rear support is the stock 1937-41 type with the 10" wide bolt spacing. I couldnt see the clutch release shaft but it probably has the stock 37 release arm given the stock nature of everything else. As pointed out above, you can go to our website to ID the year by the serial number on top. Take a pic of the innards with the top off and we should be able to ID the ge****t. $200 is ok for a good used gearbox.....provided the gears arent all chewed up/busted/rusted. Figure on rebuilding it before using it. If the gears are ok, the usual bearings, seals, thrust washers, synchro rings/hub should keep you out of hot water. For all the work involved in replacing a closed drive type ******, I wouldnt suggest putting in the car "as-is". We have the parts plus the trans repair book in stock if needed. Mac VP www.flatheadv8.com
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