hey all well i think the bests way for me to get my 55 buick project going is to use a drop-in motor. i understand the motor will cost more to rebuild at some point, but i feel like it makes more sense to keep everything basically stock instead of removing driveshafts, buying and welding trailing arms, etc. even if i do all that and drop in a 401/425 i am still looking at the $$$ of a nailhead rebuild. i want to stay buick. i couldinvest a few bucks into my 68 350 and make sure it runs then do the whole open driveline thing - just not sure i want to go that route. anyway - found a semi local guy with a 56 322 that runs, trans is complete, has 2 and 4 barrel intakes and carbs (need to be rebuilt) and i may be able to scrounge linkage, etc. seems like a fair deal at 800 though i have no real idea. ive seen 401s go for less but with a 401 i have the whole swap thing to consider. the 322 will drop in. any thoughts? he does the have the torque tube and the whole rear ends included, as well as a new fuel/vac*** pump. says there is a noise on upper right side but was told that it may be carbon buildup and to just "run it" lol.
Sounds like a good deal, especially with all the other parts. I'd do a compression test just to check it out tho'. If not doable.. yes, understanding at a rebuild kit alone will run you over $1500 is a consideration. Definitely the best way to go if you don't want to swap everything out. Good luck.
If it runs good, I'd say yes. The '56 322 is a much-improved version compared to the 54-55 units, they have different heads and exhaust manifolds, more horsepower, so that's a bonus. His torque tube and rear end will only fit in your car if they're the same series (Special and Super/Roadmaster aren't interchangeable) so keep that in mind if you're using his stuff. Compression/leakdown test is a good idea, take the valve covers off and do all your homework before you pay the money. If it looks good, go for it. Then, before you put it all in the car, throw a new oil pump in that motor (cheap insurance) and also put new end seals in the Dynaflow, which are known for leaking a ton and will be a ****load easier with the drivetrain all out of the car.
thanks guys can i bolt his motor/trans combo to my torque tube? that sounds really bad lol. forgot to say that the entire driveline has already been pulled. can i still do the comp test?
You should be able to do the compression test with the engine out of the car. You could also ask to pull the oil pan off since the engine is out, check for shrapnel in the pan, even check out the bearings if he'll let you. If you still have your original torque tube, then you're good there. Trans should bolt to that regardless of series, but find someone with a Hollander and check on the transmission interchange before you take my word for it.
make sure 56 is really the year and do a compression check. if both check out, offer him $650 and start ****ering.
I bolted a '55 right into a '56. I'm not sure about the trans, I kept the original trans when I did the swap. Ryland
Make damn sure it's a '56, check the numbers stamped on the deck next to the center of the head, we just bought a "56" at the Nats North got it home, ran the numbers, guess what? it's a '55 Special engine, a 264! All '56 nailheads, however, are 322s, the "Team Buick" website is a wealth of info regarding nailheads.
$800 seems high to me for a 322. The swap we used to do was a 364 C.I. 315 HP Buick motor out of a 58 Roadmaster as it bolts in and used a 37 Buick trans as it adapts to the torque tube.
still have the moter if intersted.it came in the 56 with 52000 on the odomiter.the car is solid so chances are its a true reading.
A guy at the Ducktail Run in Gas City, IN in the swap meet was asking $1,000 for a '66 401 w/turbo 400 trans on a makeshift engine stand and would start it up for anybody. I don't think anybody bought it. I would have bought it if mine had just grenaded or some similar situation had just happened.
The Jalopy Journal
