Installing Piston Rings.

Alright, I'm in search of some helpful HOW TO tips.

Here’s the scene. I'm rebuilding a Ford 200ci inline Six: Destination, 1962 Ranchero. I've got new Hastings molly pistons rings and new pistions. Everything measured for accuracy and all checks A-OK. I DO know which ring goes in which slot and what direction they should be facing.

I don’t know how to actually get the ring onto the piston, or how far apart the ring end gaps need to be from one another.

Problem is, none of my books describe the actual installation procedure and the last time I built a motor was way back in H.S. but hell if I can remember those days anymore...I barely made it out of there alive.

So, I'd like someone to paint me a clear picture and describe to me how they install their rings & how far apart the ring gaps should be.

Now, let the ball busting begin.

 

Imagine you are working with square pistons, put the gaps at opposite corners, the oil control rings first, second ring, top ring. It is easier to do if you put the piston/rod ***y in a vice.(clamp on the rod). Each of the gaps should be at opposite corners on the oil rings as well. IF you stack the gaps you will then be able to spray for *****ers too.....lol

 

...and use a piston ring compressor...

 

Put the oil ring separator on. Stick one end of one of the oil ring rails into place at the top of the separator, with the end of it about an inch past the gap in the separator (so the rail covers the gap in the separator), and work the ring into the groove , you'll need to pull the end over the piston and set it into place. You can bend the oil ring rails sideways as needed, they're springy. Make sure the two ends of the separater are NOT overlapping, if they are, you need to lift the rail out a bit and push the ends of the separator apart, then lay the rail back over it. Next put in the lower rail, overlap it past the end of the separator the other way from how the first rail went in.

Then get out your ring pliers (should be available at Sears or a real auto parts store). The cast iron second and top rings are fragile, you want to make sure not to bend them sideways, and only expand them enough to get them on the piston. Start with the second ring, make sure which side goes up. Put it in the pliers, and squeeze the pliers to open the ring just far enough that you can put it over the top of the piston (all the way over the top, not one side first). Slide it over the piston till it fits into the proper groove, then slowly release the pliers.

Repeat for the top ring.

I usually dig out the factory shop manual for the engine and follow the instructions for gap placement, or just eyeball it so they look like they're kind of evenly spaced around the piston--top ring gaps spaced a few inches apart, and opposite the oil rail gaps.

 

I install the bottom ring first with the gap at the 3-o-clock position, next the bottom rail with the gap at the 6-o-clock position, then the top rail with the gap at the 12-o-clock position. Then I move to the 2nd ring groove. You will need the ring pliers like "squirrel" mentioned. Install the second ring with the gap at the 9-o-clock position and then install the top ring with gap at the 3-o-clock position. This will keep the gaps from being all in line when the engine is first started. I hope this helps >>>>.

 

LOL We dont want any *****ers around here, Na Sir.

180 degrees is the same as saying opposite corners of a box, if if I read you correctly.

 

Wow, you guys rule.

Thanks for keeping it clear! I really apreciate it.

 

Here is a visual aid:



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Great. I bought a ring compressor, ring installer and a "Rocket Pop" popsicle (...just cause I wanted one). Thanks for all the help! (I say w/ Rocket Pop stained lips)

 

It's a shame a fresh motor has to be bolted together and fired up. They look like jewelry when their at this stage.

 

This might be a good time to take an "engine builder" approach rather than just ***embling things. You'll need an engine specific manual to come up with some of the specs.

Check ring end gaps, at least for the top ring. Place the ring, by itself, into its bore maybe an inch below the deck surface. Take a piston with no rings on it, turn it upside down in the bore and use it to square the ring in the bore. Push the piston down just enough so that the ring is positioned at the top of its normal travel. This is especially important if you're working with a block that hasn't been freshly bored and may have a little taper in the cylinders.

Now use a feeler gauge to measure the ring end gap and compare it to the recommended specs. For a street driven engine you'll likely not have to make any adjustments, but at least you'll know if the rings are on the tight or loose end of the specs. And make sure that when you install the pistons, that ring goes back in that same bore.

You can also check the ring's clearance in the piston ring groove. Install the ring on the piston and fit a feeler gauge between the top face of the ring and the piston groove and make sure it's within specs. Again, this would be more critical if you were working with used pistons and you probably won't have any issues. But even with new parts there be slight variations in tolerances, and a combination of these variances can either work for you or against you. By taking a little extra time, you might find out something now that you don't want to find out later.

And don't forget to give everything a good coating of ***embly lube when you're putting it together for the last time. It would be s shame to dry-start it with all those new pieces!

 

Thanks ClayMart. My old Ford Falcon book does list the clearance for ring end gap and ring groove. I've alread done the test for the ring end (my book describes the process just as you have). I've also check crankshaft end play and seated the thrust bearing as described in the book. I do plan on coating everything with weener-shlickin. A dry motor is not a happy motor.

PS, Your avatar of Goofy is a hilarious! I laughed hard when I saw it. Good choice.

 

Well he is "goofy", but technically he's not "the" Goofy. This is one of Tex Avery's characters from the old MGM cartoons. I think he was usually just referred to as "unnamed wolf" and he tended to co-star with Droopy quite a bit.

Anybody who uses "weener-shlickin" as ***embly lube has got the job under control. I just don't want to be around when you're puttin' it on!

 

LMAO! I recall overhearing some old dude use that phrase years ago and I just could not stop laughing!