Gibbs on bare metal????

I've heard a lot about how good Gibbs oil is on bare metal, but how good is it?

Is it good enough to drive a bare metal car in the rain? Get caught at a show in the rain? Wash the car?

Is it oily and will get all over your clothes if you lean or sit on the car?

I'm gonna run the coupe in bare metal for this summer and would love to leave it bare, but it rains too much here. I'm not the type to not drive my car just cause it's raining. I will clear it if I have to but this Gibbs sounds cool.
Clark

 

This probably isn’t much help, but I have had it on a flathead block in my garage for five months and it still looks like the day I put it on.

 

I’d like to know more about it. The web site says it’s a penetrant and a lubricant.
Then the go on to say you can paint over it. I find that really hard to believe.

 

While trying again to learn to stripe, I picked up some sheet metal drops to practice on. About the same time I too got curious about the effectiveness of Gibbs. I took a 12 in. x 12 in. sheet metal panel, degreased it, and put a coat of Gibbs on. I let it set over night in a pretty thick layer, then rubbed it in thoroughly w/ a clean towel.

That was about three months ago and it has set outside the entire time in a ****py, wet Seattle winter. No rust on the side I treated. Lots on the side I didn't.

It's greasy until you rub it in / wipe it off. Then it's not much different than bare metal.

 

Clark,

Sorry to jump your thread, but how's that coupe coming along? Maybe you have a few pictures to offer the curious or is it top secret?


Ed

 

I would suspect that parts need to be re-coated from time to time after using Gibbs oil? I built a windshield frame for my roadster and used a combo of mild steel and stainless (wish I had used all stainless now). I cleared it with **** can clear enamel. After about 4 months it's getting a cracked chalky look. I'd strip it down and try the Gibbs but wonder about effects of getting it on an eventual paint job on the body. I also would have problems re-coating the mating surfaces between the frame and body.

I've been reading this post and the one on clear coating bare metal with a great deal of interest.

 

I've never tried. As far as cleaning something that's been treated with Gibbs, I would recommend adding a bit more Gibbs and wiping it gently with a paper towel.

It's oil, so it's oily. Yes.

Dave
http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/

 

I did too after I read it on the can, so I tried it. I put a heavy coat of Gibbs on one of my bare '32 front axles, and painted it black the next day. The paint went on as if the metal was bare. After that, I wrote that on the page about it.

Needless to say, if you're painting a car, first you're going to use whatever cleaner/degreaser the paint manufacturer recommends.

Dave
http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/

 

Another question for Dave: If I put Gibbs on my magnesium wheels, and water gets on 'em, will the Gibbs protect 'em? I'm concerned about towing with an open trailer in the rain, and spraying water from the burnout box...Thanks...

 

Yes it will, within reason.

As you know, water does horrible things to magnesium. The more Gibbs on magnesium, the better it will be protected. Also, the more often Gibbs is applied on magnesium, the better it will be protected.

Dave
http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/

 

I guess I'll try it and see what happens if it gets rusty I'll just have to clearcoat it.

Ed...I start on it this weekend. I've been making brackets and cleaning the primer off the body but that's all I've done so far.
Clark

 

My thought is if u clear coat make sure u get clear with lots of uv protection so it will stay on.

 

So if I use Gibs on a car, then later decide to paint it, put on 1500.00 worth of primer and paint, is Gibs going to stand behind it if it fails 6 months later?