Switches and wiring for headlights, horn, starter

Let me start with, I really enjoy DC wiring, however I really **** at it!

I need a little help. I just got a 9+3 harness from Rebel and it's got me thinking about what I need for switches and whatnot. I've been searching around here and Google and I find a mess of stuff, but I'm not sure I'm seeing what I need, so maybe someone can lay it down and simplify things for me.

Here's what I'm trying to accomplish:

(NOTE: 12-volt, negative ground, system with a Mopar 3-wire alternator)

1) Lights: I would really like to control my headlights with a 3-position type pull switch (off/low/high) and no dimmer switch. Where do I get a switch like this? Can I use a relay to control my brights this way, or do I need to, since it's not a momentary type switch?

2) Horn: I just want to run a momentary push****on dash switch for my horn. The horn is a stock Model A type, Ahooga horn and I would like to run it between 6 and 9 volts. Do I need to use a potentiometer of some kind and a relay to control it? Any recommendations for a simple "HORN" ****on?

3) Starting: I want to turn on power using a key switch and a "START" ****on/momentary switch. Is there a simple key switch out there that doesn't have the momentary start position (I.E. off/ACC/run)?

My head is spinning!! Any input, suggestions, or diagrams you electron gurus could share would be SUPER appreciated!!

Thanks!
S

 

I think there's a reason that light switches are set up the way they are. With your plan, you go to dim the lights, you turn them off.

Using a rheostat to set the horn voltage is a neat idea, but you'll proabably have to figure out what the load is on the horn, then get a rheostat with the appropriate ohm/watt rating to work with it. How about a speed controller instead? I guess that might be too complicated... or an electronic voltage regulator? that might be kind of complicated too

get an ignition switch out of an old car, for example Chevy trucks used a foot switch starter thru 59 on manual trans 6 cyl models.

 

I KNEW you were going to be the first to reply! I seriously think you have a pager that buzzes you when someone puts up questions about electrical! HAHA! Thanks for your input!

Yeah, I guess I could just run another dash mounted momentary push-****on and relax for the brights and run a standard pull switch for lights. I see your point. I just don't have a place to mount a dimmer switch other than the dash. My "foot box" is too small to add a floor mounted switch.

Hmmm... Never thought of a motor controller. Interesting. It technically is a DC, brush type motor in there.

Good tip on the starter key switch! I'll look for something like that.

 

Or for your key switch you can go to NAPA and buy a key switch that is just on and off.

For the horn in my '65 I didn't want to mess with the relay wiring so I just used a high amp start ****on also available at NAPA. The way I figure it I don't spend a lot of time honking my horn and it was never a problem. I wouldn't bother stepping the voltage on the horn it really doesn't car it'll just be louder.

For lights instead of using a 3 position switch I would just use two toggles. But if you are set on a three position pull switch you could use a pull switch out of a '70s or later GM. One that the park lights stayed on when the headlights were on. Put your lows on the park light position and the highs on the headlight position. You could still use a relay on either setting.

 

You can still use a universal key switch to do what you want. You can't tell by looking at it if it has the start function. You don't have to hook up that terminal. Just use it as an on/off switch. Only you will know. They are cheap and readily available. The same applies if you want to use an ign. sw. from a 50s-60s car.

 

I installed a three postion light switch(haywire I think)and It works very nice and I got rid of some clutter. Rls

 

Some good stuff here! Keep it coming!

As for the horn, YES! It actually matters. The ahooga horns are not a diaphragm type horn. It actually has a motor and when you run it at 12 volts it sounds TERRRRRRIBLE! 6 volt isn't quite loud enough (IMHO) and it seems to run perfect and a little louder on a 7.2 battery I had. So I would like to run it at a voltage closer to that. So yes, I am on a mission to step the voltage down accordingly.

 

Yeah, you can use a 3 position switch for a headllight switch but I'd definetely use a relay. I like ford starter relays..[most guys refer to them as starter "solenoids"] from the mid 50s-70s. One post on the switch controls the relay to the dims and the other post controls the relay attached to the brights...simple.
Not sure if there's a rheostat stout enough to handle the current required to make your oogah horn go though. I'm with Porkn****** regarding horn ****on. Napa makes one that's rated at 75 amps. That's what I use with no problems.
Start ****on will definetely need a heavy duty relay...again a ford starter relay .
In fact, I also run my ign switch "hot" wire to a ford starter relay...takes the load off the switch and put it where it belongs...on a relay.

 

american autowire for the 3 positin switch. that's how I'm going to wire my '40

http://www.americanautowire.com/catalogs/AAW_sections/AAW10_LightIgnitionDoorSwitches.pdf

 

On the headlights I'd run the three position switch with relays on both high and low beam per this layout (- the extra lights) that has been posted a few times.


I'm wiring up my daily using this diagram today. The relays help keep the amperage load on the switch down and yet allow full power to the headlights.

 

Cool! I ***ume the tan and green wires coming into the relay are coming from the switch, or no? What size fuse do you figure should be in there on the right side? 20 amp, or so?

 

Talk to Glenn at Rebel yet? I asked him about the key/****on and he had the stuff and answer for me right away!

 

Oh! I've been meaning to chat with him anyway... I will do that.

 

In the old Touring I mounted the dimmer between the seats and just hit it with my hand, worked really well.

 

Switch mecca is found at Cole Hersee. I've bought from these guys before, the site is laid out well and each line tells you what each part actually is such as 2 position, push,or pull.
http://www.elecdirect.com/catalog/d2fa6d68-e6e1-4f72-96f2-eedfe6cce416.aspx
or just look up part numbers there and buy them locally.

 

That is a GREAT link! Thanks.

 

So if you are dropping ~5 volts across the rheostat and the horn draws 20 amps, you will need a 100 watt rheostat!

E (volts) x I (amps) = P (watts)

Also, depending on how the horn works, the voltage drop across a rheostat will vary if the current varies. (Start current usually higher than run current) So the horn may still not sound like you want if this happens.

Get a current measurement @ 7.2 volts or 6 volts. Then we can go from there.

You can always get a wolf whistle and never worry about electrical, only vacuum and a rough engine when you toot the horn.

 

WOW! Yeah! Great link!

 

Scooter...
I'm sending you a Pm......

 

I've got 55/100 watt H4 Halogens and that is the main reason I am going to the relays. I've burned up a dimmer switch about every six months for the past couple of years due to the load.
Plan is to run a 20 amp fuse in a holder next to the relays under the hood.
I've never blown a stock fuse but the switch doesn't like the load. I don't have enough horsepower to outrun my high beams now though

 

Ok, some ideas on the horn.
Grab a resistor pack from any heater blower.
Wire the horn through the resistors until you get a combo that sounds cool.
Use that.
If you're a junkyard kinda guy, 70's-80's (maybe others) Mercedes have the best one, encased in a swiss-cheesed metal box near the right headlight.

Cosmo

 

I will ALSO be running the Halogen conversions for the 28/29 Ford buckets... Good info!

 

My ignition and head light switches are from them. Simple and work great. 2 years so far, no issues.

 

Thanks for starting this thread Scoot. I have the same questions and the same wiring harness from Glenn. Unfortunately, I'm not as close to using it as you! I will be subscribing however for when the time comes.

-mikethegreek-

 

Thanks dude. A lot of good info in this thread and I'll probably just be behind you on putting it all in.

I was hoping to Scoop up '57 Corvette start switch and headlight switch but they are pretty ridiculously priced so if I go another route I would like to hide as much of it as possible.

 

I also like Waytek for a supplier. They have been mentioned a few times lately.

 

Look at Cole-Hersee marine switches. You can get them lots of places.

Running lights on a boat use a 3-position pull switch - off - anchor - running. This is the same as a hot rod - off - park+dim - park+brights. They also have a momentary-on pull switch and a universal key. ALL br***, all Made in USA, all rated for the right amperage - not sure about the halogens though.

My car uses the three switches below plus a turn signal to do everything I need. Looks great in the dash too.

I just reread your original post:

My car has a Rebel kit too. The switch doesn't care about the voltage, just don't exceed the ratings. I believe all of these are 20 amp. The starter is key switch is on-off. I use the push ****on on the floor to fire up the banger in my car.

 

yes look at marine stuff too. i HAVE a few cole hersee #7112 4 positions switches for my '36 (i bought in bulk from ebay). standard ignition and cole hersee both have switches, push ****ons and relays. one thing i would recommend is to use ground activated stuff. like a ground activated push ****on/starter relay, ground activated horn relay...less power wires coming inside the car less chance to burn. also on stock fords (30's-50's??) you can crank the starter (won't start) with the key out of the car....bad idea when i'm working under the dash (trust me i know), i re-wired mine to only crank when the key was in the "on" position. for the horn what about a ceramic voltage reducer for a heater blower motor, they keep voltage "around" 6 volts.

my '36 has:
ignition switch: standard ignition US-64
starter ****on: standard ignition SSB-1
headlight switch: cole hersee 7112
blower motor, wiper switch: cole hersee 50001
horn relay: standard ignition HR-106 (12v)
starter relay: standard ignition SS-587


standard marine: start at page 170
http://www.pageturnpro.com/Four-Seasons/18207-Standard-Marine/index.html#1

cole hersee: downloadable pdf
http://www.colehersee.com/resource/index.htm

it pays to keep the old illustrated guides from parts stores...i've even paid $5 on ebay for some .

 

WOW! Keeps getting better and better! Thanks for all the amazing input!

I'm definitely going to go the relay direction wherever possible, to take the load off of the switches themselves. I think that is a wise idea.

Keep it coming guys! If you have diagrams to share, don't hold back!

Thanks!

 

If I may, here is a relevant question. If you use a headlight switch like those Cole Herseys that have a 20A or 30A breaker built in. Do you or should you also run a relay?