^But you wouldn't need a full 55 gal drum of mol***as. You mix it with water. I've heard varying mixtures from 1:6 to 1:20 (ratio of mol***as to water)
the guy at the machine shop took it over after his dad retired, and he said his dad loved the old hemis, and used to race them. so when i called and told him i was bringing it, he called his dad to come check it out. so, the dad said he wanted to do the work on it. i just thought that was cool,
That is ULTRA cool. And as Dometsch said a properly installed sleeve will last as long as any original block. Go for the 5/32 wall sleeve if possible. It is thicker than a 1/8 wall sleeve and will permit overbore.
Negative on the picture, but I had a flat plate type adapter that I got from Almiqust to a Packard three speed. It was drilled and tapped for a Chevy ball mount throwout fulcrum and included an extender that required me to drill the end of the crank and tap in. That held the pilot bushing about 3/4 inch aft of the crank. There was a bit of a notch cast into the adapter and instructions to cut the Chrysler bellhousing there about 2 inches for throwout arm clearance. Worked fine.
I used the heaviest 4-wheeled stand I could afford. THEN I added legs up to the ears to support the block. Supporting the block and rotating ***embly isn't so bad on any heavy duty stand isn't so bad. It's just once you put the heads on that it gets REALLY scary!! I leave the legs off so I can still rotate the block to torque mains, and big ends, etc.. Then once it's ready for heads the extra support legs go on. I made mine out of 1x1x1/8 angle and bolted them to the ears and then to the front legs of the stand.
It's really easy to do. I sold a old long bellhousing Chrysler and an adapter plate to a Chevy bolt pattern trans to Jason Sharp a few years ago. If I still had it I would cut it for a DIY story. Maybe he is on here?
Do you actually end up cutting the starter housing or the actual extended bell portion? I remember seeing Tuck doing this in one of the Mad Fabricators videos. Sorry guys... Realized I'm straying from the original topic here.
As In remember I cut the extended bell part. This was 40 years ago. But the throwout arm has to go in a straight line from the input shaft to the fulcrum and out. So I would guess it depends on where you put the fulcrum. Seems like most clutch linkage would fall more in line with the starter housing.
The Jalopy Journal
