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Thinking of diving into my 1st Model A build...tips, taboos?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by poboyross, Oct 6, 2010.

  1. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,142

    poboyross
    Member
    from West TN

    So I've been thinking of venturing into the world of Model A's....leaving the early 50s behind now that my 50 Chevy is on the road (hey...they say you need one on the road, one in the shop at all times...right?).

    I want it to be a budget build, but I don't skimp on the parts that matter. I see builds where guys are always throwing bodies on 32 frames, 9" rear ends, wishbone this, firewall that.....all this with me coming off my first build on a Chevy that I replaced the driveline with an open one and an SBC. TONS of stuff to learn...I realize this. Info on the specifics isn't what I'm looking for...I'm looking for the overarching wisdom. Good rules to work by when approaching your first A build....coupe or tudor.

    I got to foraging around on Craigs, and came by this:

    http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/1984857353.html


    Now I won't be surprised if it gets purchased by someone who sees it in my thread, but I don't really care. My point is that I've been considering finding a project that's not from scratch, that has some of the work done, has all the major *mechanical* components, running or not. However, I look at something like this and the first thing that screams out to me is the Mustang II on it. It doesn't bother me in one sense...but based on all I see on here, I feel like it should. Most ppl look at starting with a body....I'm looking at starting with everything BUT.

    Anyway...any general tips to live by or taboos (not trends) to avoid, I'd appreciate it! There's just SO many variations, methods, and builds on here....it's kinda like "where do I start?"

    Best!
    Adam
     
  2. elmitcheristo
    Joined: Nov 10, 2007
    Posts: 351

    elmitcheristo
    Member

    I would start by looking on the HAMB, in magazines, books etc. to decide what you want to build. There are a thousand different ways to build an A. The problem with buying a half completed project is that you either have to tear it back down to suit your own tastes or live with someone else's ideas. I started out with a running, driving, mechanically sound '29 that needed alot of cosmetic work. After a few years, I ended up building another one so that I could have it the way I wanted it.

    Just my thoughts,
    Mitch
     
  3. gasserjohn
    Joined: Nov 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,218

    gasserjohn
    Member

    use the modelA rad shell...polished stainless
    keep the fenders...............
     
  4. sixpac
    Joined: Dec 15, 2002
    Posts: 553

    sixpac
    Member
    from Courtenay

    I started from scratch allso and glad I did. Do lots of homework like elmitcheristo said.
    Kepp it simple and keep it safe.
    I like the I beam 4link front end and coilover shock set up out back
    Good luck its a lot of work and a lot of fun
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2010
  5. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,142

    poboyross
    Member
    from West TN

    See, I'm fine with a coupe or tudor....but 2 door is a MUST. That's about the only requirement. Finding a good, unmolested, mostly whole car for under 3-4k is asking a lot. That's why I'm looking for a car that's a good start, that will allow me to work on it and make progress without breaking the bank.

    I'm also looking for "I wish I had never done X to my A" type stories....legit ones, not "I wish I hadn't painted it pink." ;)
     
  6. patman
    Joined: Apr 30, 2007
    Posts: 632

    patman
    Member

    Step 1: change your wanted ad in your sig. :D
     
  7. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,142

    poboyross
    Member
    from West TN


    Man....why you be callin' that crud out...makin me look a fool up in heruh?
     
  8. SixFive
    Joined: Aug 19, 2004
    Posts: 183

    SixFive
    Member

    Sounds like you are going about it the same way i did. I had a desire to build a hot rod but didn't want a 10 year project that went nowhere.

    The only real advice i can offer, because I'm also in the process of building mine, is start with the most complete car you can afford.

    I looked at a few unfinished projects where the price was right, and although a lot of work had been done, it was the work that hadn't that i was unsure about.

    I ended up buying a complete, original Tudor. And i think it was the best decision i could have made. Having it all there in front of you lets you take it all in, figure out what you want to change, what you don't need etc.

    Even the simple little things, like how the windscreen pivots, or how the doors latch, you don't have to figure it all out. Ford did that for you.

    It's a lot more straight forward for a relative beginner like me to pull something off and fix it than hunt around for missing parts then figure out how they work.

    Good Luck!
     
  9. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,142

    poboyross
    Member
    from West TN

    Hey SixFive, I tossed up a comment about your ride on the Aussie thread....the cool shindig ya'll had recently. There's something about the aesthetics/proportions of your setup that just sit *right* with me. I was curious what modifications you had already done to get it to this point. I like it in part because it still sits high...harkens back more to when ppl drove on the wagon cut roads with the ruts, it's CL***IC cl***ic :)
     
  10. ironandsteele
    Joined: Apr 25, 2006
    Posts: 6,168

    ironandsteele
    Member

    depends i guess on what you want but the A in the link you posted would take more time correcting than would be worth while for me.... looks like it's good for the body in my opinion and $3k is too much for a sedan body unless it's suuuper nice.
     
  11. SixFive
    Joined: Aug 19, 2004
    Posts: 183

    SixFive
    Member

    Cheers for that.

    I bought it as a complete stocker right here off the Hamb.

    Sat in my shop for a year until about a month ago when i decided it was time to get into it.

    Just pulled off all the guards, running boards and everything else i didn't need.
    Lifted the body off the frame and rebuilt all the body mounts.
    Chopped the top 4".
    Replaced head gasket and a few other things and got the Banger running, lowered the springs a little and threw on some '35 wires with 6.00, 7.00 tyres to give it a bit of rake.
    Made some headlight mounts with smaller '48 Prefect lights.. i think.
    Then took it out and had some fun with it.

    Frame, brakes, steering, suspension are all stock ford stuff that was already there.

    I've got hydraulic brakes for it and a few other things that i'll change before it sees real road duty, I'm working through it and changing things that will help get it on the road sooner, not too worried about having the best of the cool stuff just yet.
     
  12. A Model Art
    Joined: Jan 10, 2009
    Posts: 59

    A Model Art
    Member

    If you are going to build a "traditional" Model A buy Mike Bishop and Vern Tardel's book "How to build a traditional Ford Hot Rod". I wore out the pages of my copy.
     
  13. Fuzzy Knight
    Joined: Jun 8, 2009
    Posts: 11,806

    Fuzzy Knight
    Member
    from Santee, Ca

    When you get into this one thing to remember as you try to fit body pieces together is that 80 some odd years ago when these cars were built there was a lot of flexibility built into the bodies. Precision fit was not in their vocabulary. I have old pictures of Model As with one wheel on a saw horse and the other 3 on the ground. Try doing that with a car today. So be patient when ***embling your car. Make it fit the way you want.
    Good Luck in your endeavor
     
  14. Good advise. Stay away from Mustang II front ends, radials, disk brakes, and electric fans, three mortal sins on a traditional rod.
     

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