I have a dent at a window that I am not sure how to begin to straighten. Anyone with experience in doing this? The straighter the better but I will settle for being able to put a window in it again. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
it looks like the best way to do that is to separate the inner and outer doorskins, at least on the upper section, and straighten them individually; then weld them back together. the way the metal is formed there virtually makes it impossible to do it otherwise. it wouldn't actually be that much work if you took it in stages. you may even be able to use weld studs to pull the outer damage clear. won't hurt to try!
Trying to think of a way to do it without seperating the front and rear panels. I agree that if the panels were taken apart, it would be a fast and easy dent to fix...but that's a ton of spotweld drilling. Can't see what exactly is directly behind the sharpest kink. I almost think I'd try a small access hole on the back panel, to be able to slowly work that kink out with a blunt punch/hammer, being worked all around the kink. Even if you need a bigger access hole, it still won't take long to patch that hole. I think the kink is too sharp (and strong) to be able to pull it with a stud welder.
Cut a section out a couple of inches on each side of the kink with a whizz wheel. Seperate the inner and outer of that section. straighten/weld and butt weld it back in place.
Hey, Three way to go as I see it: Best- as mentioned, cut awaythe outer skin & straighter it on the bench and reweld in. Better- braze pull tabs into the deepest areas of the damage and with a come-a-long, a fender clamp and a spoon pull these areas whyle spring hammering the surrounding areas. Some additional "rat holes will probably be required to insert a pry pick to raise any additional low areas. Both of the above methods will require very miniumal amounts of filler to finish out repair. O.K. method- a lareg slide hammer could be used to raise the deepest areas of the damage whyle spring hammering the outer areas of the damage. Weld up the holes from the slide screws prior to any filler work. Some ''on dolly'' work will be required to straighten the pinch weld where the window fits. a good beginer project! " All great truths began as blasphemies "
Hi there...using a porta-power (or poss a hydraulic jack ,maybe a scissor jack) and blocks of wood ...put pressure horizontally across the window opening. you'll need to take care not to crush the door frame in the process but a moderate amount of pressure will help you ease out the damage. I'd imagine a small access flap MAY be needed on inside of frame so as to allow you to get a striking tool in behind the character lines....that in mind I'd look to cut a slot just big enuf to get something like a brickies bolster in there and using a club hammer and pressure to stretch the frame back ...it should come out just fine..weld up the slot n smooth 'er off..job done!! Just my 2cents.... PB
For a beginner, 62Rebel's suggestion is by far the best. A pro might be able to use the other methods, but a first-timer will only end up with a bigger mess. My $.02
Cut the outer skin off the door frame at the yellow line, leaving 1/4"-1/2" gap around the edge of the door frame. Remove & straighten both the outer dented skin, and the inner door structure if it needs it. The lip you left around the edge can be straightened out instead of peeling it back off the frame. Being flat back windows, you can probably use a straight edge to help make sure things are straight & even. Use the other rear door as a measurement guide. Be gentle when straightening as not to warp the dented area too bad. Then re-align the cut out piece, and re-weld & metal finish.
I do not have a uni spotter. That would be nice though. For what I have and my skill level I think I am going to try cutting off the outer door skin, straighten it, then weld it back on. I love reading all the ideas though. I am fairly new to body work and it is great to hear the several different ways this could be done.
If you know someone with, or have access to body pulling equipment, try and pull the entire dent from the outside all at one time. I would clean the area of impact (the t-shaped dent) with a Scotch Bright disc, cut some two inch strips of sheet metal, tack weld the strips to the depression to form pull tabs, clamp to all the tabs at once, and pull. Someone with a little experience could have this dent out in a few minutes. Cut the welds with a whiz wheel, grind the area and fill. Somewhat crude, but quick and effective. I've pulled rocker panel creases many times this way. The last picture just gives you an idea of multiple pulls form different directions. A stud welder is fine if you have one, but even on old fashioned slide hammer will work to get the door functional. Drill 1/8" holes along the impact crease, screw in the slide hammer screw, and slowly and gently work out the creases. Pull on the crease and work the area with a body hammer or spoon hammer. When you're done, grind the pull holes flat, chamfer the holes, fill the holes with solder, and fill and finish the area. A lot of work was done with a slide hammer in the old days. Again, it's crude, but inexpensive.
Very cool. I'll try that first and if I cant get it that way then I'll try cutting the dent out to straighten.
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