Curious about flat-towing w/ a B&M Hydro-stick. I'm building a strip car and currently have a TH-350 installed. Really don't want to have to buy a trailer for the car to haul it to the track. I know you aren't supposed to Flat-tow automatics in general, but was wondering about flat-towing a B&M hydro-stick. Seems like that was the hot ticket back then and I would imagine that flat-towing was more common. Not sure if there is something different about them that would allow you to do it without damage. I have access to one, but wondering if it is going to solve the issue of being able to flat-tow or if I'm going to have to set my sights on a manual trans. Any help insight be appreciated.
Why not pull the driveline? It would take longer to strap a car on a trailer than to pull a u-joint. (damn moose your fast)
Yep, yank the driveshaft. It's only a few minutes of work...about the same amount of time as swapping the street tires for the slicks.
If your stuck on flat towing the car with a hydro I think you'll want to remove the driveshaft. If I recall correctly those hydros have two fluid pumps in them and the cars that have them could be push started if you pushed fast enough. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
They used to release the rear band for flat towing around the pits. Many cars had a 'T' handle through the floor board that would allow the driver to release the band from inside the car. Nice thing is that they have rear pumps so they will lubricate them selves when being towed or pushed. This is why you can 'pop start' cars equipped with them.
With a rear pump, after you reach around 20-25 MPH, you'll feel the drag as the pump starts "pumping", and it'll kill the tow car gas milage. The beast way to flat tow, is to use towing hubs; they are free wheeling hubs that bolt to the axle, and a tire/rim bolts to them. You're not going to tow with slicks on, the tow tires have to be swapped out, so towing hubs are'nt a big deal. But, I don't know of any makers of towing hubs these days; there used to be several companies that made them. I still have an old set, and tow bar left over from my early bracket racing days (NOT for sale). Early Ramblers used to have a bolt on spindle that could be used to easily make a set of towing hubs. Watch that auction site we all know and love, they come up there occasionally. Like others have said, you could drop the drive line, then spend your time at the track looking for u-joint cups and lost needle bearings. Butch/56sedandelivery.
If you are set on flat towing a hydro car, then get ready to go slow, or they will burn up. IIRC, 45 mph is max for towing. I towed my Hudson Superjet slow for about 20 miles and never had a problem as long as I kept the speed down. Above 45 they will burn up. Best to yank driveshaft off the rear end and tie up to frame.
well the others told you how to do it. now for the buy a trailer if you hurt something you can load the car and get it home. flat towing you have no breaks on the towed car. ever do a panic stop with a tow bar?? do it once and you will get a trailer.
trailer....good used ones less than $1500, less than $1200 if you can find a decent single axle rig. Suggestions about towing speed, rear pump, etc are all correct - you could push start the early hydro cars if you got them up to over 30mph I think. Slower if it was a B&M unit. dj
Thanks. This info gives me some stuff to ponder. The trailer cost isn't the limiting factor. The space the trailer takes up when not being used is the issue. I guess it might be time to move
------------------------ ....Or if you can weld, have some fabrication skils and are half decent at scrounging stuff you could build one yourself for a couple hunded dollars and a few days work. Mart3406 =========================
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