1932 Ford 5 Window Barn Find Floor Help

I just found and bought a barn find 1932 Ford 5 Window coupe thats been sitting since 1968. Its an old 60's channeled Hot Rod that the owners sons tore all apart to restore and lost interest and the car been sitting for 40 years. The body was welded to the frame and they cut it off so now I need all the floor including a firewall. Has there ever been a thread covering this or where can I get schooled on finding and buying the correct floor panels and firewall to put this nice old coupe back up on top the frame? This is my first 32 and need help from you guys who have been down this road. I took pictures but the files are too large to share here. I dont know how to reduce the size. Thanks in advance..............Dave.

 

hey dave, first thing i would do is get a brookville catalog and go threw there parts. they are on top of the game. better yet if you can do a tour of there shop. they sell everything you need plus good advise.

 

As stated above Brookville has everything you'll need..mostly 3 window and roadster parts...but they'll work

 

Trying to think of other threads on 32 floors..

Here is one thread with a couple of pics worth saving.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295076&highlight=5w



I made my own subrails, saving what I could of the channel hackery. I did buy the rear floor from Spadaro while travelling near his place. The rear floor covers quite a lot...from the back of the front seat to a couple inches shy of the rear pan.

Lots of work unchanneling. Measure twenty times, then tack, then maybe it's wrong,.. again


Just me, I'd buy an orig firewall. I did.

 

http://****spadaro.com/index.htm He does show floor board pieces. Here on the HAMB too once in a while.

It sounds like an interesting project.

 

Go to photo bucket http://photobucket.com/
and sign up (it's free).
Then, upload the pictures to it, no need to resize. After they're in your album, go to the picture and click on the img code and copy. Then just paste it in your post.

Because we wanna see pitures!

 

One reason that I suggested a orig firewall is to have several bolt holes that are correct, and spaced apart correctly from left side to right side.

When they channeled it, they may have pinched the frame rails inwards right near the firewall, to get the cowl to slip over the rails. Or, they may have spread the lower cowl wider.

Having an untouched orig frame, or at least a firewall, will give some sort of starting point, as to finding out how it was when new.

There are ch***is blueprint measurements online, but I found them to be too vague, when working with real bad parts.

 

I had several people offer to resize my pictures so here is my barn find.

 

is she thinking,what a pile of **** like my wife would,,nice find congrats

 

Great find! Good luck, and keep us posted.

 

Nope, my wife loves cars. She has a big smile on her face! She has been with me long enough (21 years) knows what I do and supports me 100%

 

good find! i live where there are barns everywhere and all i ever find in them is ckicken or cow ****. keep us updated

 

great find!

 

Great find. Keep us posted.

 

Looks like a pretty good body,,keep us up to date with the progress. HRP

 

DAM..............That is a real live barn find!!!!! I almost didn't click on it because it said barn find........1st one out of the last 20 or so. Nice score.

 

Very nice find, especially here in Ohio.
call Brookville, every time I use their parts I'm not disappointed

 

DANG !
Ah,.... I mean, great find !,..... And I agree with the statement about Brookville, Congratulations.

 

Hate you.

 

That there is my biggest dream! Great score!

 

Nice find good luck

 

Nice looking body, That will stand up pretty easy. Here are a couple hints to work by if you are going to get it to stock height.

You will need a stock frame for a platform, the one you got looks like its been cut up pretty badly.

You will need a stock firewall to establish the cowl height.

You will need a set of rear fenders and for added confirmation a set of running boards to establish the rear height. The location of the body is dependent upon the rear fenders. They bolt to the two holes on the side of the frame rails and with out positioning the fenders in the correct location the rear the body can be too high or too low, then you have a hood alignment problem. Weld everythng up before confirmation and you will have a problem after the fact because somethig is out of alignment and I can pretty much bet that you will be cutting it out and starting over.

Use the reproduction sub rails for a roadster, I know they are not inexpensive but the time that it saves is worth the price. You should not purchase the rear roadster body corners they are a different design than the coupe. Usually they are still left on a channeled body and if they have been trimmed you may have to fabricate a little part. The door openings are different sizes so the rockers under the door will have to be removed and the correct 5w coupe ones installed.

As you collect all the necessary pieces you should also secure a radiator , grille shell and hood. This is like a safety precaution. Before you do any welding or panel replacement you need to mockup the body to determine the flow of the body reveal lines thru the hood. The positioning of the grille shell and radiator, sets the hood line and this maintains the correct hood vertical gap between the cowl and the hood and the hood and the raditaor. Failing to position this will give you headaches in hood alignment.

When you start to install the sub rails, evenly space the door openings with shims made from box cardboard to obtain an even door gap and then tack weld the doors closed. This will require you to climb in and out of the car thru the trunk opening but will insure that the door alignment stays correct during welding.

Locate the sub rail to the frame rail, then install the cross channels, seat pan and floor pan then the rocker panels.

This will give you a start.

 

this is all great info ****!!! Unfortunately you are making me nervous about my decision to go with roadster quarters on my 5w. I just thought the wheel well was different. I really need to get a roadster and 5w in sights to measure differences. Fortunately I'm probably going to channel the car a bit so I'm not worry about it being 100% like the original.

 

Nice car .....

 

sweet find!!

 

A big thanks to **** Spadaro for his great info and all the kind words from the rest of you guys. I made a body dolly today and got it set up on. I started cleaning off all the years of dirt with just water and a rag and alot of the old paint was flaking off. Good thing is that so far its all bare metal under the paint and I have seen no signs of any filler anywhere. The cowl vent has been filled but its still in place.

 

Great looking body the overall shape of the panels look great i don't see any major problem areas other than the sub frame and general repairs. Brookville subframes will go a long way in getting this car back out on the road and are worth the money.
Everything **** Spadaro is spot on, I went and looked at five window for a local guy and will start work on it later this month but his car is cut apart in four different areas and is getting a replacement cowl to get his car back out on the road. he is working on getting at least a perimeter frame set up before we do any work on the body other than general clean up work.

 

Nice find. Great advice about the frame & floor. I once purchased a 34 5W body that someone installed the floor without using the frame as a template. Once the body went on the frame it was crooked by about 2 inches on the *** end. Live and learn!

 

****'s advice is spot-on perfect. My advice is to make friends with someone who has a project body that you can steal measurements from.

 

Does anybody have an original steel body shell that could help me with measurments and pictures? I want to weld some braces in the body to start my build. I have had some great help from fellow HAMB members on my firewall and other 1932 info.