This is ALL good stuff...I have a 49 Wayfarer and I'm fixin' to take the chassis from underneath it as well and fit a 302 and T5 and 8.8 rear end into it..I'll be calling you for advice.
Window motors came in today and got them mounted on the regulators. I am working on the other door now and will post pictures soon.
Alright..I finished up the outside sill on the other door. Now I can move on to the upper door area. Lots of little pieces here... Got an estimate for 2 laminated, green tint door windows from Dons glass in Texarkana...$48.00 ea. The 5/8" aluminum channel came in and now I can make the guides. I will remove the brackets from the old channel and pop rivit them to the new. The rear channels will go back in the original mounting holes which will give me a base to get the front channel in line.
I got the front and rear channels in the door. Front is pop rivited to a strip of steel and poped through the door at the top and I used a flathead machine screw with washer and nut through the new henge pocket I welded in earlier. I slotted the hole to allow for adjustment in and out and will use fender washers to square the window. For the rear, I removed the original channel brackets from the channel and poped them to the new aluminum channel. My flexible window run channel is 5/8" wide and the original channels used 3/4" wide...screw back in the original location. I also slotted the mounting holes for adjustment. My camera is not very good but here's the way I did the front channels. Also need to make the guide extensions for the glass bottom channel...
heres a couple shots of my 50 wayfarer sedan its my daily driver frenched headlights & body seams smoothed out side view front this is how it looked when i got it... poor car...
The "white" is really more of a its a girl pink with a pepto bismol graphic and red on bottom it was pretty bad.. its gonna get shiney paint again once I finish buidin the new frame & get the body moved over... ill be keepin watch on this thread tho for sure
I have the inside sill clamped in place temporarily for reference... The bottom of the window frame slips over this to hold in place and the top is screwed in place. Still trying to figgure out how to attach the outer window fuzzies to the sill. No way to get a pop rivit in there. I may cut out the inner sill temporarily, pop the fuzzies in place and weld the inner back in. We have an old John Deer grain drill I've been stealing parts from and used some 1/4" X 3/4" steel welded on a 90 for the lower window guide things. I will weld them onto the bottom channel along with the regulator channel... Will have to slide the regulator on this before mounting it to the door.
OH...None of the L brackets were square after welding. I also made them longer than planned but... the longer they are the more stability they will produce...I'll cut if needed. To fix this type of welded angle, if it is greater than 90 deg. beat on the outer portion of the weld... The "tip" to expand the metal. and the inside of the weld if it's under 90 deg. Then I cleaned up the rest with a flap wheel.
I can't go any further with the doors until I get the glass and 18ga. sheet. Next month. I did go back to the power steering and got the lines hooked up. Filled the PS pump and started the engine. The hi side line had a small leak but with a little more tightening, it stopped. I now have power steering and it works great! At idle, with the weight on the tires I could turn the intermediate shaft/rack, lock to lock by hand with little effort. Feels like the pump pressure is right also. Glad that's over with...(knock-on-wood)
The steel came in today so I mounted one of the regulators on it and dry-fit it to the door. I have desided to remove the inner sill and pop rivit the outer belt in place after painting and then make another pair of inner sills from the same steel and 1/2" angle as used on the outers. I also installed the Bearclaw latches...
Bad news!!! my air compressor motor burned out and the power supply in my computer crapped out all in the same week!!! I'll be back soon....
took my computer apart and cleaned everything up and it started working again!?! Maybe I can do that with the compressor motor?....Not... Too meny amps being drawn from one coil. I am looking at one on ebay. 5HP. 1 Phase 1-1/8" shaft CCW. I was able to make the 2 inside sills yesterday and will weld them to the doors after I pop the outside wipes in place.
Cindy and I put the body back on the frame yesterday and secured to the frame. I found out that everything fit except the fuel tank. I measured everything except the rear frame crosmember to fuel tank clearance! The fuel tank will have to be moved foreward 1-1/2" to clear the crossmember. Should have done the tank before removing the body from the frame. It will be an easy fix as soon as I have air! Ordered a motor for my compressor today and should be here in a week or so. SO..I will go ahead and clean up the brake booster and master cylinder and install. Bleed the brakes and check for leaks. If I had the driveshaft cut already I could drive the car to check out the steering and brakes.
Compressor motor came in today and will install next week. We are having a family thing this weekend. Got the fuel tank opening fixed and mounted the tank. Will have to get another brake booster...Diaphram is leaking! Angle grinder burned out also...When it rains it pours!
OK...I have air now. I'll try and get back on the doors after I get the front tires and wheels replaced on my Farmall.
OK...Back to the doors. Very cold here now... Today I popped the outer fuzzy to one of the doors and fitted the inside sill. I will weld it on tomorrow. Also measured for the lower window channel and will assemble and fit these tomorrow also. Still procrastinating on the upper door bow filler pieces...I will make these in 3 pieces. the top filler... the curved section and the front piece.
OK... Back in business. I popped the outer window wipe in place on one of the doors and trimmed the new inner door sill ready to weld on. Working outdoors you will get surface rust!
Nice work. Thanks for posting! I have a friend starting a '46 Dodge this winter, he'll be watching this one... You're in Texas, how cold can it be? I was in St.Paul Minnesota this week, they had about 5 inches of snow on the ground!!
had to mark this just so I can stay tuned. Its creepy that your doing the same things im doing to my 51 cranbrook, and youve done some things that are on my to do list . jeff
Looking good! Keep up the great work, even though it's getting colder outside. I'm sure you'll manage!
I now have both of the window bottom channels made up and have one installed without the fuzzy channel. I'm using plywood for a window right now but it goes up and down smoothly without cocking forward or rearward.. OK...I have been putting off the door top bow too long now. Just got one of filler strips welded on one of the doors today. I was able to do it in 2 pieces with relief cuts to get the fillers to curve along with the door bow. The widest filler will be where the original vent and glass meet. Here's the pictures...Maybe y'all can see what's going on...Kind-of hard to explain.
Geeze! I just hate it when I have to change the batterys in this camera...Never can get the date right!
I have the small Central machenery mini lathe and made up some new door hinge bolts from carriage bolts 3/8" X 1" The original pocket nuts are trash so I will attach from behind the A pillar with thick fender washers, locks, and nuts. After welding in the floor pans and inner rockers, the door did not fit back right. @ years ago I tightened up the door gaps to 1/8" after removing the drip rail. Filled in with scraps of sheet metal but had to re adjust it further this time. The original hinge bolts were 5/16" and I replaced with 3/8" Had to enlarge the adjustment holes in the A pillar. Fits fair now but will need more tweaking before paint. That door is heavy!!! Yes, I know...That old bondo will get replaced before paint. As you can see I rounded the door corners also. After finishing the pass. door I will get on the AC heat unit I just bought off of ebay. I made a template where the lines and mounting studs go through the firewall Fits a late model VW or Audi. Measures 11D x 12H X 32L Glovebox will have to be only 4" deep. Here's the pictures...Notice the frost!
OK...I got the VW ac mounted under the dash and fits pretty good. Had to cut off the fresh air vacuum diaphram for fit...I always run mine on inside air anyway I will use the glovebox for the fusebox... it's only 4" deep. The ac vents will have to go through the old radio bezel. Only problem is where the heater hoses come through the firewall at the top middle of the firewall. Last picture. I will have to use a couple of 90 deg. ells to direct the hoses straight down and make a sheetmetal cover for them. That should look ok... I also lost one of the defrost ducts in order to make the ac unit fit higher up in the dash so I will have to make another one and re-locate it. I also lost the space for the cowl vent which I was going to fill anyway... The radio space is gone too...
Wow! And i thought mine was a pain in the ass! Looks bad ass so far keep going. I cant wait to see the end result!
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