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Allowable wheel runout

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by FNG777, Oct 13, 2010.

  1. FNG777
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 60

    FNG777
    Member
    from mass.

    Just had a pair of Wheelvintiques 16" Gennies delivered and noticed the lateral runout was almost 1/4". Will this cause a wobble going down the road? Otherwise the wheel runs true.
     
  2. Lateral, do you mean the diameter up and down? 1/4", that's crazy!
     
  3. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,355

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    "Lateral" means side wobble. "Up & down runout" would be axial.

    I've always heard that there shouldn't be more that 1/8" lateral run out as measure near the tread.
     
  4. Understood. Even an 1/8" seems like a lot.
     
  5. FNG777
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 60

    FNG777
    Member
    from mass.

    I thought so, I've never seen a wheel with that much "wobble". I'll remount them again and check to insure that there's nothing between the hub and wheel to cause it.

    I should send them back.

    Thanks
     
  6. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,631

    GARY?
    Member

    1/4" Sounds like a lot. Especially for new wheels.
     
  7. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

    1/4" is too much, in any direction.

    Send them back.
     
  8. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,401

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    Junk

    and it should have never left their shop.
    as long as its not something you have between the wheel and mounting surface..than back to my opinion of it being junk
     
  9. hotroddon
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 28,240

    hotroddon
    Member

    WOW, that's messed up. I used to be a partner in a Wire Wheel company. We wouldn't ship anything that had more than .010" Total runout either Axially (Lateral) or radially. Some motorcycle wheel's call for up to .080" and older car wire wheels were acceptable up to .125"
    These days there is really no reason for anything over .050" or so.
     
  10. Hank
    Joined: Feb 18, 2005
    Posts: 234

    Hank
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I've heard no more than .030" in either direction for a street car. If you're going for high speeds the less run out the better. .250" is way too much.
     
  11. Screamin' Metal
    Joined: Feb 1, 2009
    Posts: 506

    Screamin' Metal
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    WHAT HE SAID!!!!! :eek: Now, just go over to the kick press and work with them a little......get those puppies within about 1/16, take a skin cut on a lathe and rebalance......WOLA!!!!:D
     
  12. Screamin' Metal
    Joined: Feb 1, 2009
    Posts: 506

    Screamin' Metal
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    Yea, put the things up in a lathe, indicate in on the rims bead area.....get it dead nut, then indicate in on the mounting face. Should be right there.
    Or the el cheapo way, thow that puppy on a freshly swept concrete floor, make yourself a little stand, slap a indicator on it, and come up thru the center hole. Quick, easy and will indeed let you know the rims at fault.

    Also wire brush your hubs to make sure they're clean and the wheel mounting surface. Saw a fella throw a tire on with mud and gravel between those surfaces. Also died laughing. Also, make sure your wheel bearings are tight too.

    .010 here, .025 there, .035 somewhere else= way too dawm much!!!!
     
  13. FNG777
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 60

    FNG777
    Member
    from mass.

    Here's the actual measurements using a dial indicator.

    #1 wheel out by .081", #2 wheel out in two spots .032 and .041.

    The axial plane is OK.
     
  14. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    I'm not familiar w/the product's configuration, but have had good luck w/using a urethane sledge and "correcting" the late aluminum wheels to run true. Yes, it's softer, but a few well placed whacks can sometimes be made to bring something into true.
     
  15. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,355

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    <HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #e5e5e5; COLOR: #e5e5e5" SIZE=1> <!-- / icon and ***le --><!-- message -->
    "Here's the actual measurements using a dial indicator.

    #1 wheel out by .081", #2 wheel out in two spots .032 and .041.

    The axial plane is OK."


    That's quite a bit different that the 1/4" you stated in your first post. Where are you measuring - on the tire or on the rim???
     
  16. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Straighten the wheels as Pitman suggested. I had a heavy duty horizontal arbor at the Frame & Wheel company where I worked in '64, and from locating the 'high spots' laterally, corrected them with soft blows with a lead mallot. I had an open-ended spanner to straighten curb dents on outer bead area.
    A customer asked one day: "How close do you get them, 1/16 inch?"
    I answered, "No, this isn't the 'building trade'. I take them to Zero."
    (actually, .015" was as close as I could get within time constraints, but as I did more, I could get closer in less time.)
    Rather than send the wheels back (been there!) I would straighten them. Send them back and they will sit in the shop until someone decides to deal with them...(already paid for, priority 34...or 67...or...)
     
  17. FNG777
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 60

    FNG777
    Member
    from mass.

    Why would I measure against the Tire? Used a dial indicator against the rim.
     
  18. CutawayAl
    Joined: Aug 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,144

    CutawayAl
    Member
    from MI

    My experience with that comes mostly fron cutting wheels for displays, and from widening wheels. 1/8" is quite a bit, but older steel wheels sometimes had that much deviation. All the wheels I have seen that were made in recent times, whether steel, aluminum, or magnesium, have very little runout.
     
  19. Just something to think about ... I seem to recall on another post that most if not all wheel companies apparently include a note in with the rim that states "Not Returnable After Tire Has Been Mounted" or something to that effect. Basically it sounds like returning the rim might not even be an option here (as I think you mentioned "mounting the tire again").



    __________________________________________________________________


    This is NOT a joke ... I don't "joke" around on the Hamb anymore, I'm just not good enough at it :(
     
  20. FNG777
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 60

    FNG777
    Member
    from mass.

    Not mounted...Was on the way to the tire shop but decided to check the wheels first, had this probblem once before.

    Bought the wheels thru Shane at Johnsons Hot Rod shop, I'll see what he has to say about the wheels and returning them.
     
  21. hotroddon
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 28,240

    hotroddon
    Member

    Well, .032 and .041" are certainly acceptable and .081" probably won't be felt either, depending on the tire. More than I'd like to see, but they will probably tell you that is within tolerance - and a long cry from 1/4" :D
     
  22. FNG777
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 60

    FNG777
    Member
    from mass.

    Just spoke with Shane at JHR then Joe Berry at WheelVintique, good Guy who's certainly willing to help. Told me their tolerance is .03" for lateral runout. Asked me to ship the wheel back to them and he'll check it out. If out of spec. they'll replace it.

    Sounds fair to me, good customer service.

    Pls. forgive me for saying 1/4"...I'll never guess again!
     
  23. Gotcha...my mistake. I ***umed you meant mounting the tires again. I think I'd be more inclined to return the rim than to try to straighten one myself ... but that's just me.



    Ooops...just read your latest. Sounds like you are dealing with some good people.
     

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