Is it easier to pull the distributor or just try to wrestle witih it in the car. Its in my 39 PU and its a little bit of a PITA to get down to the distributor. Thanks, Mike
Rumbleseat http://www.flatheadv8.org/rumblest/intro.htm (select ignition, scroll down to the stock distributor section) says to take it out. Doesn't look like much fun. Mike
Thanks alot!! That is a great site, got alot of good info. BTW, I really dig your modified . Where can I see more pictures of it? Thanks, Mike
Actually, I can't think of an easier way to change points on that style flathead than to pull the distributor. Trying to change the points with the distributor in place is almost impossible. And setting gap will drive you batty even if you could get the points in place. You will need to bench time the distributor anyway so you are better off taking it off. That link to the flathead sight has tons of good information on it. Follow the directions on bench timing and point activation carefully and you should be good to go.
Removal is easy once you figure out where everything is. Pop off cap bail, remove rotor, remove two bolts, and slide it out. Everything is actually easier to reach and wrench than it is to see! Note drive tang is asymmetrical--It goes together only the right way, BUT a determined klutz can put it together backward with some effort and break parts. Here's a rant I posted earlier on working on them. Links to flathead techno site cover dwell, the Ford parts site has the method for actual timing by the Ford process meant for situations with no fixture available--note direction is wrong on that site! If in good shape, these have a good curve and the stock dual point (This is a Mallory design, by the way) setup is good through the power range of a street flathead. Take it apart and check front&rear bushings for slop. Check rubber ring on vacuum orifice on flange if it's fried, replacements are available. Most important is the advance mechanism many that have sat for a while won't even move. Separate cam from central shaft by removing snap rings, clean the rotating surface and grease lightly on pivot and where springs rest. Oil and free up the little bearings where weights act on plate, then wipe away all surplus lube. Reassemble and twist cam to see that advance works. Clean up vac brake, lube, install with only light drag on brake disc. Go to http://www.btc bci.com/~billben/dist.htm and use this technique to get points just so. Note that gluing a dime store protractor to an old distrib rotor is a shortcut, and will also tell you a bit about the centrifugal advance. This is really a dwell, not a timing, fixture more on that later. I have a real KRW fixture so I don't mess with this... It=s a good idea to blueprint fit of timing plate while you are rebuilding to make tuning easy on the car. Rotate the plate in its position with the big snap ring removed. It is probably stiff and notch so that it is difficult to make small timing changes smoothly. Lightly file areas on edge that are brightened by contact, reinstall, rotate, repeat until you have a smooooth fit. Next, go to http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_engines_distr timing.htm and time the sucker to stock specs. You can now play with timing (stock is usually pretty close to right) using the little scale on the side of the distributor. (this site has timing movement on scale BACKWARDS!!!) More on the "timing" fixture in the website: If you make a good solid way of mounting your protractor to the distrib drive, carefully set the distributor in its firing position for #1 or whatever, and make up a pin that accurately locates a hole in the protractor to one of the distrib bolt holes, you now have a close equivalent of a KRW timing fixture. Or you could make up a one piece version of the two rulers device so you can use it conveniently without needing all three hands. Either way, the distributor and any spares can now be timed off the engine and R&R'd as needed. Tuning changes are then controlled from the little degree scale on the side of the distributor. While you're at it, determine how many degrees each mark on that scale represents that has fallen out of my head, and I believe the value differs a bit from what Ford says it is anyhow. Remember crank degrees and cam degrees differ by a factor of two, and ALWAYS know which you are doing.
I have read some pretty confusing descriptions about how to set the timing on these distributors by measuring the location of the cam drive on the back side of the body. Unless you go all the way and mark the crank pulley to set the timing with a light, are they really going to get you any closer than just setting the mark on the side of the housing to the second line (4 degrees) and calling it good?
Accuracy will be quite good IF good quality timing gears are in there and IF the proper bolts are used for timing cover and distributor...wrong bolts can add a degree or so of randomness each...proper bench timing would be about as accurate as the general run of factory timing marks, and possibly better than a visually determined TDC. Finding (properly, interference or measured movement based, NOT visual methods!) TDC accurately and having a mark is a plus and a great convenience... bench method allows complete setup and allows carrying a spare distrib ready to go for disasters, and is plenty accurate enough for use...BUT the main thing on timing is that any spec or arbitrary setting is really just a starting point for fiddling til you find your engine's personal preferences. Fiddling with base timing and with effects of the brake are next for the rodder...
Another bench measure that has become more important...with a protractor and battery powered test light, you can make a simple tester for checking dwell of the points separately and together, just like a Ford fixture or a 1930's Echlin tester. The reason this has become more important is that some resto places are now offering restorer grade points with misdrilled pivots and generally bad construction. Testing dwell after setting gaps will quickly out these things...with good Ford-Echlin-Standard-decent points, setting gap will give you good results on separate and comnbined dwell, good enough that you don't need to worry. With the bad imports, it will not be possible to simultaneously get correct combined dwell and correct gap because the location of the pivot is wrong. Reliability and safety related parts for old cars have to be selected with great care, because there are dealers happy to sell you crap.
That's for chiming in, Bruce. I have often heard about the problems with restoration quality points and now understand the reasons for concern. I couldn't imagine that any of the techiques was any better than the others for establishing a starting point for tuning. You make a good point about keeping a spare, ready-to-go distributor on hand. You're not likely to walk into many auto part stores these days and get parts for one. I think I'll set up my old points in an extra distributor I have and stick it in the toolbox.
Does anyone know where I can get a new o-ring for the the vacuum port on a 42-48 distributor body that seals it to the timing cover? I don't see them in Mac's catalog.
You can get the seals from "Ken's Ford Carbs" for $8 plus shipping. Ken's email is igadore@sbcglobal.net
Closer to $1 at C&G...I yank the brass retainer by screwing in a small tap, I think #6, and pulling out. C&G, Mac's, and Joblot between them have a lot of NOS components like advances and plates, not usually needed but good to know. Mac is said to sell some unusually bad points, though...I tend to pillage their ctalog for the NOS they have only.
Thanks for the tip on the removal and the lead on C&G, Bruce. Looks like they have everything Mac's has and more: http://www.cgfordparts.com/Early_Ford_Parts.htm
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