October 2010 Banger meet OOOO Scary

Good stuff! Thanks.
Let me tell you my thinking regarding my manifold question. One of the manifolds I am looking at is steel tube. They rust and I wanted a clean look so I thought to just do "brand X" ceramic coating and call it good. Obviously, this would keep things a lot cooler and perhaps detrimental to atomization.

Banger is a good running stocker now. I want to start adding "peripherals" and then in the spring time, take it to H and H for a touring cam, inserts, machining, flywheel, crank, etc.
I just don't want to buy too much stuff twice. So whatever I can buy now, that will still work when the motor is m***aged will be good.

Need headers, single downdraft, iginition, etc.

Thanks everyone!

 

I have Mark Dees book The Miller Dynasty, It is one of those few books that I reread. That and The Last Great Miller were given to me by my son.

 

Ok, here are the Winfield heads... I guess pictures is better than a thousand words, right..
The alu is a 7.5 cr Super Winfield, the cast iron is an original Winfield red head 6.5 cr..

 

I don`t beleive this exact combo has been shown on here before, i thought some of the banger guys might like this.
This is a pretty rare English Dropframe Model T front axle with Chevy 490 spindles..
The axle is a different forging than the American one and has not been modified. If i remember correctly it gives 2 1/2" drop.. The spindles accepts Model T bushings and kingpins, and is a direct fit into the axle. The spindles accepts the Buffalo hub when a set of Model A bearings were used. Fits wonderfully.
Also gives the cool looking 1910`s to 1920`s Indy style positive? camber.
A pretty neat combo that is a bolt on deal and gives a total drop of around 5".
Everything is norwegian woods finds..


This set-up is going on the Aldrich inspired roadster i`m working on.

Just thought you might like it..

 

youd think so, but im ussually busy selling and drinking

 

Yup- you should be able to use Chevrolet spindles up to 1927 ('28 spindles used front brakes) on a T front axle!

 

Thank you for the photos. I have a cast iron Crows foot with the same cuts at the valve pocket. I'm wasn't sure if the cuts were done at the factory but now I would tend to think so.

 

Yes, i absolutely think so too.. They are visible in the 1931 "Winfield`s great news for model A" catalog.

 

To try to finally put the light switch question to bed-

Straight down is off
Left is park, Right first click is low beam, second click is high beam.

The very early 28's (known as AR's) had the light setup described by Just Plain Bill, except that the original switch only had three positions Left park, center (down) off, right headlight. Bills car has had the switch replaced by a later one in the past.

Herb Kephart

 

Here is a 6:1 Winfield that I picked up at Hershey.... for comparison...

 

Well Godamightydamn I feel vindicated, sort of! On the Barn i was told that just commercial vehicles didn't have parking lights and used aftermarket parking lights my RPU has a march of 29 date stamped.

 

Guys, I wish I could hang with the cool kids and run a banger in my rod, but due unforseen finacial conditions, I am forced to sell my "C" banger. I've had it for a few years, and finally pulled the pan this week. It has the factory counter-weighted crank. You can look for it in the usual places. Yes, this is a shameless plug. I need the money.

 

Plugs are no good without prices

 

Bluto,

Here is a link to his cl***ified:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=521668

.

 

New Engine starts then does not ----

I have a recently rebuilt Model A Ford engine in my 30 CCPU. The engine is an inserted, pressurized MOdel A block with a 7:1 CR Riley Two Port OHV head on top. It has weber 32/36 dgv carb and a 12 volt petronix distributor on it. A few days a go the engine was started for the first time. It fired on the second rotation and sounded good after some minor timing and carb adjustments. I was started and stopped a few times an even driven around the block once. (great feeling) I left town for a couple of days and today when I ty to start it, and it caught and then back fired loudly (so much the neightbor thought a gun went off), i thurned it off, let it set for a few minutes, then tried again and it caught but backfired just as loudly, and now after letting it set for a couple of hours is the engine turning over but not wanting to fire.

The fuel pump is pumping gas, I can see gas squirting into the bowl when I press the accelerator lever, the coil has resistance of 1.2 ohms and 10.29 Kohms respectively. The fuse in the fuse block is good, the wiring has been checked, as it was turning over I saw the oil pressure gauge climb up to 20#'s so oil is flowing, the timing was rechecked and looks close enough to start it. I am baffled.

Any ideas are appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

 

Have you got a exhaust valve sticking sometimes? New motor little carbon on an undercut stem that goes into a guide that overlaps the undercur will do that.

 

A few additions to the original post: The distributor is a 12 volt FSI Ignitions centrifigal advance electonic distributor with no condensor, the coil is an Accel 12 coil with an internal resistor. I pulled the plugs and clean a regapped them before trying to restart after back firing.

Thanks,

Dave <!-- / message -->

 

The problem is soft deposits can make the valve stick open till the spring finally closes it. How old is the fuel? Old fuel sticks valves

How long will it run before the report? If the third time was quick. Do a leak down

See the thing that has me going is "the engine sat a few days"

I think you could start it without the valve cover .... make it easier to hear the valve clatter.Did you pull the valve cover and spin the engine? Check to see if the lash has changed.


You could start it on three and just change the combination of three cylinders to see if one set of three didn't report. Since it sounds like it doesn't run long enough to ground each plug


I had a petronix backfire once but then it was just dead....... no restarting

 

Ditto on the Pertronix, this can happen if the ignition has been left on. Some for just a short time. Check the literature. My car did this and both the coil and the Pertronix unit were bad, don't know which went first. Mine would pop occasionally and act like it wanted to run but didn't.

 

At this time the engine will not run at all. I replaced the petronix that experienced the back fire with another one I had on the shelf that came off a running car and the engine will still not start with this new one. I am going to look deeper into my timing and see what is happening.

The engine ran for about 1 hour total the first time it ran before these things started.

I think I will do some compression checks on the engine as well to see what I get for readings and see if the cylinders are building compression.

The fuel was about 3 months old in the tank but had stabil in it.

 

new discovery, on finicky engine. I reset the timing to TDC, made sure all the plugs and coil wires were seated. choked the carb and tried to start it. The engine turned over but would not start after trying three different times. After the third failed attempt I turned off the key and the engine backfired throuhg the exhaust (sounded like a gun went off). Waited 5 mintes and thried to start again, but again just turns over without starting and this time no back fire.

I think I will go watch daughter's high school volleyball for the night and think more about what to try next.

 

Get rid of the old gas!

 

dave-
im stuck in the red lion motel here in denver for a few more hours if you'd like some help. i would do a compression test and check the coil. if it's a compression problem i would check lash first and do what bluto said check for sticking valves. if compression / leak down looks good then i would say it's in the ignition. maybe what you think is tdc is really not tdc but more likely is that the coil is bad.

 

Received this in yesterdays mail. I had thought S O S S needed spell check. I'm not sure it will be big enough to read, you may need a magnifying gl***. You can see that the guy or guys with all the marbles put my car in the cl*** with the sprint cars with their overhead engines. He said it was to be fair to the guys with slower flathead "A"'s and "B"'s. Now to shave .8 off of our time! My car is #22

 

Ok, I put my engine back together last night in a mad dash to get it out to famoso today. The only thing I found wrong was wear on the timing gear making slop between the crank gear and timing and this caused a loud knocking. Had me stumped for awhile as to what the knock was. I put an old NOS timing gear I had on the shelf on it and re***embled the engine. Fired it up and it runs good but still has a very quiet knock..... I am still baffled as to why its knocking. I am gonna drive it to famoso in a little while for the day. I think I am gonna pull the engine soon and put my back-up engine in. Any of you guys with your infinite wisdom have any suggestions as to what could be wrong? The knock got alot quieter with the new timing gear.-Weeks

 

Dave here is how it might be .... you can have a valve handing up maybe more than one....... fuel charge is pumped thru the compression stroke and when the pluc lights you get the report. This may or may not close the valve.

This is all a guess but Petronix works or doesn't no real in between

Have you checked to see if you have spark?

And do change fuel please that will stuck a valve quicker than snot

Last take a flashlight and seeif you have fuel dribbling in the carb. If so reduce fuel pressure and reset the float. Webers don't like more than 1.5 psi

 

Are my resistor wires taking out my coil?? 6v pos gnd, Mallory points dizzy. I'm going on my 3rd coil!!

 

Well, this is probably Apples to Oranges but, I live in So Ca at approx. 3800' and I have 3 tractors 2 of which have 6 to 1 compression ratio and It has been my experience, remember my experience, that if the gas (So Ca blend unleaded regular) has sat for 3 months or more it can and has given ME problems. I have learned that it is best that if this condition exists to drain including carburetor, and replace with fresh unleaded regular gasoline So Ca blend and each time the engine responds by running. I have checked timing and reset points to no avail when this happens. It will pop occasionally but refuses to start. real ***** when you run the battery down and have to crank it. I have had this experience with a ford 8N and a Case Va, The Case engine was designed to start on gasoline and run on kerosine. The engine fuel is gravity fed. If you have that serious of a flooding problem the you should be able to smell gasoline

Now, upon reflection, it does sound more like a ignition problem but before you fix something that ain't broke just try the simple things. I used a FS distributor in my 2 port until it quit during tech at the Antique Nationals 2009. Now I use a stock "B" and a visual inspection will usually find the problem. I guess I'm going backwards as I grow older, Almost bald, can barely see, loosing my teeth, close to wetting my pants, and have been having urges to **** on a nice ***! More than you need to know but then who cares?!

 

Old trick, used in the old days to unbaffle people, if you can hear it knock at idle turn the timing pin around and gently put the pointy end in until it rubs on the timing gear. Sometimes, if it is a loose gear the knock will diminish as you push in. Don't be afraid to try it. Crank pulley's are another source of mysterious knocks. Maybe if you don't make it to Famosa you will find out what it is

 

Bill I forgot your younger than me......

My hair stopped growin out my head and now grows a lot faster on my chin

Soon I'll not need a shirt.

Has the gas in So Cal gotten that bad?

Glad our motorhome is a diesel

Oh the shame if it all.