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Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ianjb, Oct 5, 2010.

  1. ianjb
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 7

    ianjb
    Member
    from California

    So I am starting to build a custom roadster with my dad, we have a 350 we are rebuilding and we are looking for a ******. I wrote in the introduction, you can see my story. Anyways I need lots of help, from what I have seen and read you all know what you are talking about and are all very helpful. Just have a couple questions about where to start. With the suspension, I should use pinto suspension right? Also where can I get a good frame, and good 350 motor mounts? Thanks in advance, Ian
     
  2. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    Ian, There are as many ways to build, as there are builders out there. If you choose an independent front suspension, you will want to have full fenders covering this. If the roadster is to be open wheeled, then you will want to look at traditional beam axles.
    Folks here recommend books by Vern Tardel and Leroi Smith, as a place to start.
    The "Search" function on here, and becoming an Alliance Member are a good way to go too.
     
  3. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,988

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ok, the first thing we need to know is what body style of "custom roadster". For a pre war WWII Ford style roadster most all of us on this board would prefer an I beam style suspension over a Pinto/Mustang II style which doesn't look right without fenders on cars that don't have full fenders like the 35 and up cars.

    If you haven't noticed this board is for fans of rods and customs that maintain the traditional look of the rods and customs that were built in the 30's, 40's and 50's for the most part.

    Several members on the board have shops that build and sell hot rod /roadster frames and or ch***is. Check the Alliance vendors for a few links.
     
  4. hrm2k
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 5,461

    hrm2k
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    When you get your ideas together a little more Ian, the project will be easier to visualize.
    Pitman was correct, the search function can be your friend. another thing that might be a friend is the community ****on in the black bar above. In that ****on wll be a link to current album additions. Sometimes a picture will answer your questions
    Good luck with your build
     
  5. 29nash
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 4,542

    29nash
    BANNED
    from colorado

    For your dad eh? Enjoy the journey; I'd be the last person to imagine I could advise you on the look you might prefer; Browse away; Search; car show, pictures. Maybe in a couple of years you'll decide. I prefer 'beam front axle, fenderless or not. :D
     
  6. fastrnu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2009
    Posts: 739

    fastrnu
    Member
    from shelton,wa

    pinto suspesions are great on Pintos! I-beams are great for traditional rods. As for the frame, that could go on for ever. Box tube....Madel A....

    Get started and adjust as you go. Nothing worse than paralisis by ****ysis. Remember the most advanced form of transportation (The space shuttle) only arrives presicely at its destination by CONSTANT CORRECTIONS. Most times what you design and vision are only a starting point.

    Good luck
     
  7. ianjb
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 7

    ianjb
    Member
    from California

    [​IMG]

    This is basically what I want to go for, I want to do this right not cheap. I need to start from the ground up, but basically this is what I want the car to look like.
     
  8. BOWTIE BROWN
    Joined: Mar 30, 2010
    Posts: 3,251

    BOWTIE BROWN
    Member

    all i have to say is...make it a bowtie.
     
  9. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,901

    need louvers ?
    Member

    ianjb The car you posted a picture of is a 'gl*** '27 T. It is or very similar to a kit that speedway motors puts out. The front suspension is a tube axle, and not Pinto/MustangII, as most have already stated. As far as strict inclusion on this board, it's large diameter wheels and billet accessories would raise some eyebrows around here, but it could also be trimmed in a traditional manner as well. Could be a good looking car either way, just a matter of acceptance here. I don't normally suggest a "kit car" approach to building, but where you are at, picking up a Speedway catalog and ordering their kit of this car might be a good way to go. Still a bunch of work, but for the most part engineered and set up so that you make a minimum of mistakes along the way. Just my .02 Chip Quinn
     
  10. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    Right smart fella that Quinn guy!
    Good advice if you're not a fabricator sort of builder.
    The HAMB does show some examples of real fine tire & wheel combinations, of the Trad. form.
     
  11. Francisco Plumbero
    Joined: May 6, 2010
    Posts: 2,533

    Francisco Plumbero
    Member
    from il.

    I think you should hang back and gather ideas, the longer and more you look at cars on here the more you will absorb ideas and directions that your build will go. In the long run that education will save you money, give you a better eye and hone your skills.
     
  12. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,901

    need louvers ?
    Member

  13. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    No flames, and sound advice. We should go public!
     
  14. Well what kind of car do you have?

    Generally IFS/IRS doesn't fit in with the phrase "Traditional Hot Rod" (at least not here on the HAMB...but I won't get into that). I've got nothing against them personally (as you can see in my photo album). But if you want to go traditional then forged Ibeam and leaf springs is the way to go.
     
  15. ianjb
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 7

    ianjb
    Member
    from California

    All I have is a 29 ford frame, but a friend of mine has a boxed 37' frame with disc brakes and such could I mount like a 29 body on a 37 frame? Should I post a picture of the frame?
     
  16. No, for the most part fat fendered frames and early tin make fugly matings.

    If you have a 29 frame, look at Model A's, the easiest way to start. 28-31. A 26/7 will also fit, that is the gl*** body you show inthe picture.
     
  17. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,901

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Ya, Tman is dead right on that one! I've seen T and A bodies on '35 -'40 type frames, and unfortunately, there is no way of "unseeing" things! If you are dead set on using the frame you have, take some time to do some measuring and check it for square and level. That's the begining. Then do some serious study about welding and fabrication techniques, because these are skills you will need. Then lock yourself down here for the next few months or years and soak in the rich talents around here as far as ch***is and car set up. In the mean time, be on the look out for model A or T body to suit what you want. Going with a pre engineered kit sounds better all the time for your first go 'round, right?!
     
  18. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    Ian, here is Brianangus' thread on frame building. Using search will also bring up good examples to consider further. Many built frames are available if you decide to use new steel in a model that mimics the '29, the rear Z effect is one region of design planning.
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=150434
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2010
  19. 29nash
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 4,542

    29nash
    BANNED
    from colorado

    Disc brakes would indicate a 70s/80s-period 'rod.
     
  20. Build a model car first. You can build anything you want for less than a hundred bucks in a model.
    If you like what you see,buy the full size parts and pile them up in a garage.
    Clean and repair these parts as necessary.
    If you can weld or fabricate,GET BUSY.Build a rolling ch***is first.You can use your Model A frame. Then mount the body. The one you showed is a 1927 with a 1932 Grille radiator sitting on an tube frame. These cars are fun as well as practical. Much more roomy than a 23 T bucket.
    If you can't weld, contact someone who can. Put together a wanted section in the HAMB. State your desires. Open your check book and get BUSY. You will need money to build your Hot Rod- Have plenty of that. The more money you can spend, the better.
    You can make whatever you want to for around 10 grand or less if you are careful.
    This is a lot cheaper than a new car. Good Luck,Mikey
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2010
  21. skidsteer
    Joined: Mar 19, 2007
    Posts: 1,246

    skidsteer
    Member

    Look for car clubs in your area and join one, or find a good breakfast place that has a room that can handle 20-30 people, and post a 'HAMB breakfast meet' once a month. Guys who show up, with and without their cars, will help you out with ideas, and maybe even some elbow grease.
     
  22. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,511

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    The best thing you could do would be to do plenty of research before starting.

    You have an idea, but no knowledge of even the components that will go together to make that a reality.

    Read as much as you can here, look into all the rodding magazines, and also look at Speedway Motors website.

    Order their catalogs too.

    All that will educate you on what will and won't work and save you a bunch of money too by preventing you from buying stuff that won't work.

    A few books on rod building have been mentioned which are a good idea to look into as well.

    Good luck.
     

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