October 2010 Banger meet OOOO Scary

I made it out with a very nice loud knock developing about half way there. I stood on it some more to see if I could break it. No luck. I went ahead and drove around the track as though my coupe was a golf cart all day shuttling buddies around the swap and parking lots . Towards the end of the day I bought an oil stabilized just to see if it would help get myself and my nephew home. We made it home ok just with a loud knock at low to mid range RPM. High RPM I couldn't hear the knock. I had the only banger running around all day. There was one other but it was more of a static display oh and the big *** aircompressor powered by a flathead V8 utilizing an original model A motor as the pump mechanism.

Well, my car will be outta commision for a little bit as I swap my spare engine in and figure out the real problem with Ol' Yeller. I will get a pic of the compressor rig if its in the swapmeet tomorrow. Alot of swappers were on their way to Pamona Swap as soon as Scrabblefest was over at 7 o'clock last night(wtf usually goes till at least 830-9).-Weeks

 

Knew a guy once that rebuilt his "A" engine, had good babblt on the mains so he didn't pull the engine just pulled shims . Replaced rods and pistons. freshened up the valves. Anyway, when he started it up it still had the same knock! Broken, or cracked crank pulley!

 

Weeks, do you have adjustable tappets? My old engine had a knock,kinda in the middle of the block. Turns out it was a tappet knock, one was worn down and another was split, they were the non adjustable variety.

Any input on my previous question? Anybody??

 

I had a HUGE KNOCK and vibration..... I had lost an inside chunk of fan belt!!

 

Weeks,
Is it possible you forgot to put in the cam thrust spring behind the plunger in the timing cover? Or maybe the spring is collapsed?

.

 

Were you referring to resistor type plug wires? Don't know why you would need that type on an "A". Do you have a resistor in the primary circuit?

 

No Bill, no resistor in the primary. I used the resistor/supressor spark plug wires because I had them already. I did ask here before if there would be any issues with them and I got a "no problem" response. But, after 3 coils, I'm beginning to suspect them. I do have a spool of solid core wire.

 

I just got through checking out an old Mallory Best 12 volt coil today and it has a resistor built on it. as does the 6 volt Mallory Best coil. Seems kinda odd but the Mallory Best coil has molded into the bottom "The best coil I ever made" Are you running 12 or 6? No matter which you probably need a resistor on the primary side. Resistors usually cut the volts to the coil by 1/2. This old 12 volt coil operates on 6, the voltage cut from 12 to 6 by the resistor. The old ford flatheads had a resistor and it cut the 6 volts to 3 I think. I think your problem is in the primary circuit. Didn't seem to need resistors with the stock "A" "B" distributor, Some coils have an internal resistor, other wiring systems use a resistor wire on the primary side. Nothing wrong with them wires. Just seems like overkill. You probably get better reception on the radio with your honkin' big stereo you got in there!

 

Hey Banger Fellers,

Check out this post as a "Banger" powered roadster has made the pages of Hot Rod magazine in the Dec 2010 issue.

Hot Bang! Check it our here.

 

Good possibility, I looked it over the other night for cracks before re***embly though. I will recheck before dis***embly.-Weeks

 

Just so you guys know I am not full of it, this is the little darling that I talked about earlier this month. It now has a spot in the shop too. Any idea on the year???


Ok 445 comes pretty soon for work g'nite.-Weeks[/QUOTE]


I think 39 .....37-39 anyway. .... You will need a V8 to drive it!! So you better just send it to me!!

 

Recent comment by Mel Mallory, FS ignitions, ( I'm paraphrasing) " Oil filled coils only cool 60% of windings with tower down like the "A" coil, Oil filled coils should be mounted with the "tower" up. I had one take a dump because it was mounted horizontal.

 

Ecklin and Accel both make HO Epoxy filled coils with built in resistors

Sometimes Amazon has the best price with free shipping

 

last weekend I posted about my newly rebuilt engine that ran upon initial start up and then after sitting for 3 days did not want to start.

Well today I took some compression checks and they are as follows:

Cylinder 1) - 0#
Cylinder 2) - 100#
Cylinder 3) - 100 #
Cylinder 4) - 0#

This is on a 7:1 CR Riley Two Port inserted engine. Based on what some have told me I ***ume I have some stuck exhaust valves, possibly due to some bad fuel. My next step is to pull the side cover off the engine and see what I find.

If I find stuck valves do I:

1) lube them and hope they will move?
2) remove the keepers and springs and clean them and reinstall?
3) open to suggestions.

Thanks, Dave

 

That's good info right there!! Thanks Bill

You too Bluto!!

 

I went to The Gathering Of The Faithful in M***. on Sunday here are some pix of some bangers

 

Where can i get an adapter to run a t-5 ?

 

Try Steve Serr he has set ups for open and closed drive lines.

Web site:
http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/transadapter.htm

Contact:
http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/contact.htm

.

 

Macspeed bellhousing from Bell Auto Parts in Bakersfield,

Bell Auto Parts


900 Bernard Street
Bakersfield, CA 93305-3302
<dl><dt>Phone:</dt><dd cl***="tel"> (661) 872-9039 </dd><dt>



</dt></dl>Torquetube adapter right here from Crazydaddyo

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226






Macspeed bellhousing pics

 

... you wouldn't happen to have pics of the cars as well, would you ?

 

HMMMMMMM, nice hardware there.
Do I see some new handmade headers coming down the line.....?

 

Dave,

Are the valve guides steel or bronze?
Do the exhaust valve have stock springs?

If the guides are steel, you may have a rust problem keeping them open. try a little penetrant oil there. Don't let too much get into the crank case.

If you have stock springs on the exhaust valves, you might want to put a 1/4" spacer under the spring.

With the valve cover off, make sure the lifters aren't the problem. If they ran dry, they could gall and stick in the lifter bores.

.

.

 

Seen the parts for sale on ebay here located in Bako, but makes no sense as I have never heard of this business en***y here and the location pictured on mapquest street view is of just a shop with no signs out front. I will do some research and see whats up as the bellhousings you listed I was under the impression they are an import from Mac's in New Zealand or Austrailia I can't really remember which.

 

Correct on most counts. not all businesses have signs do they?
Just use the phone number....

Squeak Bell is the owner , used to own Kiwi Konnection over the road, sold that business and now sells parts made in New Zealand.
I spoke to Graeme McNeill at Macspeed this morning he told me that Squeak has several bellhousings in stock......

Weeks' Squeak is a fountain of knowledge and skills, you could do worse than calling him to introduce yourself.

 

Jeeeeez sorry to be right

Check the valve lash. If it's OK then put a little oil in the cylinder to make sure it's valves not broken rings.... do a second compression check

Please do this with the carbs all the way open 7-12 cycles and the same cycles on all cylinders

Pull the head off and look. If your lucky they and stuck not bent.

Please make sure the spings are not broken.

Many times valves stick because the guides are bored two sizes inside. Bigger at the end toward the valve's head. This allows junk to collect there and stick

I have a small ball mic with a dial readout to check valve guide bores

The guides may not have been reamed correctly

Get a magnifing gl*** and look at the stems

Look at the guides and make sure the guides have not been struck by the valve spring retainers..... it does happen. You may not see a mark only a difference it installed height.

You have to look closely

As Bill says old gas can stick valves

Please look atthe head gasket too make sure you've got good contact everywhere.

There is always a chance the you've not gotten oil to the valves too.

I suppose you could have stuck lifters too. That's rare

Go slow step be step look at everything ..... this is a new motor and any part can fail. If the gear is slipping on the cam for example. I had an idiot install another cam in an engine I built. When installing the cam gear he somehow pushed out the key in the cam. It started ran a while and then the cam slipped bent valves and somehow I was to blame... till the mistake was found and then I only found out cause I was the only guy with a supply of these little special keys.

Look close. And report. We all can learn here.

Again I'm sorry to hear this

 

Sorry guys the sun f---ed up most of my pics of the hole car


This one is from Miss Kate she did a better job then me (yellow engine)

I think this is the guy with the side covers for sale on the HAMB

 

I wont to do twin lake pipe for mine

 

I had a feeling it was Squeeks place. Been invited by a few people to go there just never made it up there to the eastside. I am pretty sure he talked to me at Dragfest about my car for a minute. Sometime I will get around to going over there to bs.-Weeks

 

Big question, was the head made by C Yapp? or is it an original? C Yapp recently printed a statement and he stated, actually you might call it a "Rant", that some shops are overcharging buyers of his heads when installing them. One shop I know of will not install a newly manufactured head with out checking all specs and fits first. This is part of the cost. Added cost to correct problems. I still feel that the fuel could have had something to do with it. Urb Stair writes in his book "Racing Memories" that he used some racing fuel to get home from a race car ran fine but the next morning most of the valves were stuck in his flat head ford V8. No permanent damage. I would only pull head as a last resort. Just check the lifters and see if they are free at TDC compression stroke Tap on the keepers and see if the valves will seat. I realize these thoughts are pretty basic but I'm a believer in going back and starting from zero. Never make 2 changes, just do one thing at a time.
We used to run a little Marvel Mystery oil though the carb with engine running to help lube valves and rings. Old time s--t I know but you night give it a try

 

Your right Bill but if fuel stuck the valves it should really come apart. After checking the valve lash, oil flow and such

Peace of mind is a good thing