Switches and wiring for headlights, horn, starter

i run just the breaker with regular bulbs, if you run the Halogen conversions then i would go with relays.

scoot if you need a 4 position headlight switch i might have a spare to my spare, pm me.

 

Always go with relays when you use halogens. Always.

 

Scoot,
You don't absolutely need separate relays for the high and low beams. A "5 pole" relay will work for this (used by many OEM). One set of contacts is normally on (low), and when the relay energizes it switches to the other contact (high). This DOES mean that all light current flows through the light switch. It also means a separate dimmer switch.

If you want a small, low current light switch in the dash; you will need separate high and low relays. I think you will still want a separate dimmer switch regardless, as the running light wiring will backfeed and keep the brights on without a diode or some such wizardry....

 

Yeah, Trent...the last thing you need is to trip a breaker at 70 mph at night on a skinny, winding 2 lane road...don't ask me how I know..seriously!
That's exactly why I routed the headlights on our old 33 pickup through a relay. Ever have problems with it? I'll bet not.
BTW, That night I had the headlights go out, it was while driving my dad's 37 ford pickup waaaaaaaaay out in the country in Oregon at 2 am with no moon...had Scotty with me. It happened in the middle of a sweeping curve and we just got lucky..headlight came back on just before the exit of the curve and we did ok..met an Oregon state trooper coming the other way 30 seconds later!
Go with relays...please! You just might be on the same road I'm driving someday late at night.

 

I experienced the samr worst nightmare on a dark november night going home through the deep forests after a rockabilly event, lost dimmed light!!

 

Scares the livin **** outta ya, doesn't it?

 

You bet ya. I was doin' like 60 on a narrow road with a 64 Lincoln when it happened. Man oh man.

 

Hmmm... thinking about dimmer switches now.

One more reason to run relays! That's certainly scary, Rocky!

Relays, relays... Handy doodads anyway.

 

For the lights I was thinking about using a wiper pullswitch that u can turn to wash the windscreen. First pull for the parking lights second pull low beam and when you turn it you go over to high beam. If you use relays it shouldnt be a problem.

 

You are thread stalking me today!

I know about the lights going out.................remember Sodbusters Trashwagon at the first KCSP Meet!? Damn that place got real dark in a hurry!

Maybe GV should read this, I used a breaker switch on the T

 

Did you see my reply about the dimmer? Mounted between the seats, hit it with your hand.

 

Yep! Saw that! Good idea!

 

See my response below.

I believe that the breakers in head light switches are quick auto reset. I would not use a fuse on head lights, (nothing like cruising down a country road at night and suddenly no lights.), only a auto reset breaker. You don't have to worry about finding that spare fuse. Find the problem and you are back on the road.
On the relay issue, if the lights pull less than the rated load on the light switch, I would not use a relay, just something else to go wrong and loose your lights.

 

i forgot to mention in my response to tman, that most all breakers on head lights switches are auto reset (kramer pointed that out). i have yet to see a manual reset BESIDES the gl*** fuse ones. a lot of old cars don't run a headlight relay because your pulling less amps then the light fuse or breaker is rated for on the switch.

 

Model A Horn.... best method, rewind your existing horn motor for 12V.....not as hard as it sounds, \

To change the Model A horn from 6 volts to 12 volts, you must rewind the two field coils. Leave the armature as it is. First dis***emble the horn to remove the brushes and the armature. Unsolder the two wires at the connector clip ( one from each field coil.) Note the direction of winding on the coils. The two coils are wound in opposite directions. The rule of thumb is that when you double the voltage, you use 1/2 the wire size and double the turns. So going from 6v to 12v use 24 gauge wire .
Six volt coils have 45 turns , use 100 turns with 24 gauge wire . Be sure to use coated wire, normally used to wind RF radio coils or speaker coils. After winding the horn coils brush a coat of light varnish to help insulate. The windings do not need to be real tight or in neat rows.

Second best sell horn and buy new 12v version $255 at Model A stores

http://www.mikes-afordable.com/miva...PROD&Product_Code=A1380212&Category_Code=1075

http://www.mikes-afordable.com/page/MFP/CTGY/1075

cheapest quickest method , buy this

http://www.mikes-afordable.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A13820B&Category_Code=1075

 

You know what? Deep down I knew that or at least suspected it but TOTALLY forgot that detail!

I will see if I run halogens or not, my lights are packed away and out of mind while I get some other stuff done.

Great thread Scooter!

 

Good thread! newby here and new to wiring...getting the hang of it once you get yer mind right. Here is my situation:
57 dodge d100
got a 20c ez wiring pkg.
got a bank of toggles above the windshield that controls: start, fan, low beam, high beam.
got it set so parking lights come on when i flip the low beams.
got the aftermarket blinker setup from Speedway (no hazard).
issue is:
blinkers BARELY flick when on.
do i need to put the parking lights on a separate toggle?
also have a brake light switch from speedway.
and i'm not clear: i have 2 wires from the ez kit-brake switch power and brake switch-where do they go with this setup?
and the orange wire from the blinker kit---not sure where that goes either.
i should say too, the tail lights are for a trailer-have tail, brake and blinker built in.
learning the hard way...as usual